cmac06

iTrader: (16)

If you're going through the trouble, the 6.125 rods with aftermarket pistons is cheaper and usually in stock at most vendors. In fact you could just get a whole rotating assembly already balanced. I thought you said earlier you were upgrading to forged pistons anyway.

ButchB

iTrader: (5)

I ordered eagle h beams and wisecos. My rods came with the standard arp bolts. I had already bought a set of the 2000 arps I was gonna use on my stock rods. I'm wondering if I should use the standard bolts that cam with the rods or go ahead and use the better ones and sale the standards?

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

Eagle rods should have 7/16" bolts, so you cant use your other ones

Cra-Z Larry

Sounds like you need to rethink this build OP, if you're on a budget for rods then the valvetrain to turn 8k rpms will probably put this build in the red!! Build a motor with a 7-7200 redline so you can afford it and enjoy it!! Just my 2 cents. GLWTB!

ButchB

iTrader: (5)

Gotcha, thanks

Idahoctsv

Yes forged pistons is what I'm going with. Oliver's gave me quote of $250x10 and came out to $2000 for custom 6.098 rods....yyeeaaaa maybe not those at the moment lol. Callies offered me 6.100 compstar forged 4340 for 685$. Obviously diff price range and yea I think I just might go with callies. An yea cra-Z Larry your probably right. 7200 rpm max good?

Idahoctsv

Oh yes and the hp range was 850 for callies.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Why are you hell bent upon 6.098" rods? The shelf compstars are $549.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

http://www.cp-carrillo.com/LinkClick...xg%3d&tabid=82
Scroll down to page 66 of their catalogue for rod info....not cheap but these
are top dog american made stuff

cmac06

iTrader: (16)

Is your block decked or something? Check Wiseco's Chevy catalog; there are 25 shelf pistons that will put you at 0 deck with 6.125" rods. Your pistons for stock length rods makes most aftermarket items custom, spendy, long time for machining and speeendy. You could probably have a set of Wiseco shelf pistons and rods from Wiseco in a week for well under $1500. Not to beat a lifeless horse, but why are you stuck on the stock length rods?

Idahoctsv

No it's not decked. But ok since everybody is recommending 6.125s I guess I'll just go with that. Cp-Carrillo looks like a really good company. Never heard of them

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Carillo IS the original H-beam connecting rod. Way back in the day it's the
only rod that would survive in Nascar environments, and has since been cop-
ied by everyone. There are dozens of reasons why they are so fricken expen-
sive and are probably overkill for most builds....but your thread title did say
BEST. Most of the modern copy cats that are under 400 bucks are forged
AND machined in China. The 500-800 dollar range rods are forged over there
and rough machined before being sent here for finish machining. Quality
control on machining is very important. I've taken cheap H-beams to the
machine shop for balancing with an assembly and found that they needed to
be sized on the big end because of tightness and inconsistency. The pin end
bushings almost always need a quick honing to loosen the pin clearance from
.0004" to .0008". Pretty standard and usually is only 4 bucks per rod.
All American made rods usually start at 1000 and quickly escalate from there
The purity standards for the alloy is much more cleaner, meaning the molec-
ular grain structure is better from the start...prior to the machining. Then the
quality of machines as well as the operator using it is IMO just plain better
on our soil. Again the problem is that most builds can't justify the expense
and not too many people care about where their stuff comes from as long as
it does the job. Most import rods will do just that.......Your call

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I've made over 750whp with $400 Scat H-beams in a supercharged LSA.

I've made over 800whp with Callies Compstar rods in a nitrous LS7.

Both cars were abused at the track and Tx Mile events.

No need to complicate things, waste a ton of money, and go overkill on this. Shelf Wiseco piston and a 6.125" Callies H-Beam will handle just about anything you throw at it.

Z06Ryan

Both myself and a good friend of mine have off the shelf weisco/eagle set up. We both are spraying more than a 200 shot and in the 700rwhp range. We rev to 7k rpms and beat the crap out of our cars with no hesitation. Ive been very happy with my set up and it didnt break the bank.

Idahoctsv

Ok so callies and wiseco. What about mahles? That's what I was wanting at first. Are they good?

HP52TA

iTrader: (6)

I have been looking into replacing my rods for an upcoming power adder as well. When I rebuilt my LS1 initially, I installed forged Diamond pistons with stock rods and crank. I am now wishing I would have at least replaced the rods at that time as well...

Callies makes a Compstar rod with the stock dimensions, Part# CSC6100DS6A2AH. (Actually 6.100" instead of the stock 6.098" to be exact)
These are said to be good to 800 HP at crank and come with the 7/16" ARP 2000 bolts installed.

Here is my list of other budget friendly aftermarket rods with stock dimensions I have been looking at:
- Manley 14114-8 Sportsmaster I-Beam, 550 HP, 8K RPM rating
- Eagle CRS6100M3D, 700 HP rating, 1100 HO rating with ARP2000 bolts
- SCAT 66100945

If you are replacing pistons and rods, I would be going with a 6.125 rod, as it also has a smaller wrist pin and lighter overall weight.

Idahoctsv

alright so been thinking and comparing prices on diff companies and it looks like im gonna go with callies rods with wiseco pistons. thanks guys for the help and recommendations.

bmr408

iTrader: (3)

Compstar all the way

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Eagle h beams w/arp 2000's, diamond pistons..

Proven 1k hp by many members here

cosbysweater

Just use gen4 rods and pistons