v8maro

iTrader: (4)

My mods:

PP S2 5.3L heads
TSP 232/228 .595/.588 112LSA cam
TSP Clear induction lid & K&N
Pacesetter LT's & ORP
Manley Hardened pushrods
PP Gold double springs
TI retainers
LS6 Intake
3" Cutout
Lou's Short Stick
stock clutch
Mustang Dyno: 383rwhp/346rwtq (~420/379 dynojet guesstimate)

I ran this car on the highway tonight:
02 w/ ls6 intake
pacesetter lt's, 3" off road y" to 3" hooker cat back
tsp lid/k&n
maf ends
harlan light
stock gear
stock clutch

Results from race - DEAD EVEN. The guy runs high 12's at the track. (I had like 3/4 car on him) 30mph-120mph

Me =

I don't know what to do? I think this combo just does not work or something. I am considering selling the H/C and going with a new combo like s2 ls6 and 231/237 or fms FM13 cam.
What do you guys think?? I think my tq is low and I am really worried something is messed with the motor. I am going to do a comp test and want to do a leakdown, how do I do this?
Is there anything else I would want to check??? Anything I can do to see if my trans or clutch is the culprit??

Just pretty bummed out here that I dumped like 4k into my car and it runs with a high 12's car. =\

-Steve

Damian

iTrader: (89)

That does suck LOL...

No offense, but are you driving the car to it's potential? Making those #'s on a Stang dyno should definately pull on a bolt on car, but no-so-good driving could cause it to be pretty close. Just a thought...

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

Welp, we ran from like a 30 roll, I had it in 1st at like 4k rpms. Took it to 6500 in every gear banging as hard as I could. I did notice the clutch was slipping some when I switch gears, but still, a h/c car would still pull I would think
What do you guys consider good driving? I always head, "bad driver" what is defined as a good driver?

I duno what to do, very upset. My car is also full weight, only took off the AIR, dunno if that matters much doubt it.

-Steve

verbs

Just curious...with all those mods why the hell are you on a stock 1999 clutch? Slippage? That's probably a given. Go get a real clutch and I bet you see a night and day difference.

My 2001 Z with bolt ons tore through a stock (ls6) clutch in under 15K miles.


I think you are completely overlooking the problems you may have at hand.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

Why? Don't have 1k to drop on a clutch just yet.
Slippage? yes, seems like a lot. If I bang the gears, it'll just sit at 6k forever

What problems do you think I am overlooking?

Thanks
-Steve

Damian

iTrader: (89)

You can get a full Spec 3 setup for around 350-400 bucks chief, a far cry from 1000

A slipping clutch will definately hurt you in a race...

verbs

I was just referring to the clutch issues.....

Like Damian said, with install shouldn't be looking at more than $600. Your car will not live up to it's potential until you get a real clutch. Worrying about getting a new cam and heads should be the least of your issues. I was just shocked that you were considering dumping another couple grand into your cam and heads before taking care of your clutch

DaddySS

You don't mention your tuning. How are the timing tables, A/F, etc.

hondakiller

iTrader: (3)

the stock clutch stuck out as the first thing to me when i looked at your mods as well. a "good" driver will toast a stock clutch on stock power, friend of mine has an 02z with lid, catback and dr's that runs 12.30's and the "hot shoe" he has drive it for him wasted his clutch in a few passes. by comparison, the car goes 12.70's when he (the owner) drives. im just a slow a4 driver but id say a good clutch would solve most of your problem.

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

get a good clutch.problem solved

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Put the car in 5th gear on the highway at 60 MPH and nail the gas to the floor. If your clutch is slipping you'll know here the RPM will shoot to the roof when you do this if it's slipping.

silverbeast

iTrader: (16)

when you race from a roll on the street 4k rpm's is way to high.you run out of gear to fast. try going at around 2500 rpm. much better. if you roll that high of a roll you need to try 2nd gear.oh yea and need a new clutch

JDPZ28

iTrader: (3)

I second the idea for a new clutch as I also think mine is slipping with less than 20k miles on it. Also I didn't notice if you had changed your gears yet? Throw some 4.10's in there
along with a new clutch and I guarantee you'll feel a new kick in the ***!

verbs

what are you talking about? If you're going to start a race from a roll at 2500rpms you might as well just wave the white flag and save your gas.

If he was at 4k rpm in 1st gear and he got traction he was very much so in the right gear.

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

clutch is a must do! gears are not that big of a deal,i almost went 11's(12.09) with 3.73's.and a small c1 222 cam(m6). who did the tuning on your car?

SidewayzOZ

iTrader: (11)

About the clutch deal...I can easily see it costing close to 1k...remember us pre 01 cars have to have upgraded hydraulics. Its easy to drop a grand if you need a new flywheel.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

DaddySS: My car is fully tuned by Kurt @ APEngineering.

CANNIBAL: I did the 5th gear floor it @ 60 thing a few weeks ago, RPM's stayed, I will try again today if I get a chance.

silverbeast: uhm, 4k in 1st gear is perfect for racing in my car, most of my tq/power is from 4000-6500.

mike c.: Kurt at APEngineering did the tune.

About the clutch, I want to do a spec stg 3, so thats like $375 for clutch, $100 for new slave, flywheel resurface ($$??$$), and wont I need a new adj. master cyl?

as for my dyno and AF, here are the graphs (the lighter black line is where it was before it was tuned ) :

Dyno: http://lethalss.ssgraphix.com/images/dyno383-346.jpg
AF: http://lethalss.ssgraphix.com/images/dyno-airfuel.jpg

-Steve

cueball

plus with it slipping like that you could warp your fly wheel, and damage other parts.
i would replace the clutch as soon as you could.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

is it worth paying 400 for an aluminum flywheel on these cars?
-Steve

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

FWIW, I was on a stock clutch last summer with 40k on it. Took it out and there was absolutely no blueing and the disk had 1/2 life left in it. If you treat the stocker well, it will last. Obviously no clutch dumps over 3000rpm with it...I ran low 12s with it...as long as you dont ride the hell out of it...Anyway, I got my SPEC S2 for $350 and am using my stock slave with a home made adjustable master cylinder. I would just buy an OEM replacement iron flywheel...they're perfectly fine. You should bring your car up to Flint this Sat as a few of us are going to the new local Dynojet, just to show yourself that the power is up to spec. I'm sure the clutch will hold ok as long as its not hot.