Too big for DD?
Too big for DD? So I talked to Martin from Tick today, about the Polluter V2.
I explained that this cam will be going into my DD car, with the recommended 4k stall and 3.73 gear. He told me that it wouldn't be very good for a DD vehicle.
I have a lot of respect for Martin, and I know he knows his ****, but I'm wondering if the daily driveability of a car is more dependent on what the driver of the car considers to be daily driveable.
I'm inclined to go with his suggestion of a custom grind 233/236 .619/.576 and a 3600 converter, with 3.90's, but I feel like I'll be leaving quite a bit on the table in the name of DD, or what I think will be ok for DD. I don't intend on making this a full out race car, but I'd like to be competitive at the track when I go.
How would/do you guys feel about daily driving a cam and stall package like the Polluter V2 (or similar cam) with a 4k stall?
Either way, I'll be getting my cam from Tick, but my goal is, like so many others, 400 rwhp minimum, DD, with stock 241's for now.
BTW, my car is a 2000 Z28 A4 with 57,7xx miles on the clock. LT's, lid, P&P TB, no cats with an e-cutout, and a semi conservative street tune.
What do you guys think I should do?
I explained that this cam will be going into my DD car, with the recommended 4k stall and 3.73 gear. He told me that it wouldn't be very good for a DD vehicle.
I have a lot of respect for Martin, and I know he knows his ****, but I'm wondering if the daily driveability of a car is more dependent on what the driver of the car considers to be daily driveable.
I'm inclined to go with his suggestion of a custom grind 233/236 .619/.576 and a 3600 converter, with 3.90's, but I feel like I'll be leaving quite a bit on the table in the name of DD, or what I think will be ok for DD. I don't intend on making this a full out race car, but I'd like to be competitive at the track when I go.
How would/do you guys feel about daily driving a cam and stall package like the Polluter V2 (or similar cam) with a 4k stall?
Either way, I'll be getting my cam from Tick, but my goal is, like so many others, 400 rwhp minimum, DD, with stock 241's for now.
BTW, my car is a 2000 Z28 A4 with 57,7xx miles on the clock. LT's, lid, P&P TB, no cats with an e-cutout, and a semi conservative street tune.
What do you guys think I should do?
I DD a 228/230 114 LSA with 3600 stall and a 9" w/3:70 gears for 3 years. That was enough for me. I drove it 10 hours straight, and I sat in traffic on I95 with it. I dont know how anyone can call anything more extreme than my old setup a Daily Driver.
On top of all this, you are going to do a cam, then later in the year do heads, why not do it all at one time and have the right cam spec'd and pay for one tune?
On top of all this, you are going to do a cam, then later in the year do heads, why not do it all at one time and have the right cam spec'd and pay for one tune?
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Whenever I hear someone express concerns about driveability, that tells me he is someone with finer sensibilities, for whom subtle differences matter. My rec is you should go with the custom cam, which is still recommended by Martin, after all. And still a pretty decent sized cam for an LS1.
What's the LSA and advance on it, if you don't mind my asking?
What's the LSA and advance on it, if you don't mind my asking?
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Listen to Martin.
You probably aren't going to be any slower with that combo vs the Polluter. You need a lot more compression, and max effort mods everywhere... great exhaust, FAST 102, lots of attention to detail in the valvetrain setup, etc because the Polluter will make more power after 6k RPM, but less upto then vs the 233/236.
Also, I'd go for the best heads you can buy and let them do the work for you... not the cam.
You probably aren't going to be any slower with that combo vs the Polluter. You need a lot more compression, and max effort mods everywhere... great exhaust, FAST 102, lots of attention to detail in the valvetrain setup, etc because the Polluter will make more power after 6k RPM, but less upto then vs the 233/236.
Also, I'd go for the best heads you can buy and let them do the work for you... not the cam.
Like you said "drivability" is a matter of opinion, so it's really hard to say here. With that said, Matin's suggestion on the stall, gears, and cam sounds pretty good to me for a fun overall street car. Now would it be faster at the track with the gears, a 4k stall, and a bigger cam...yes it might be a tad quicker in that case, but I bet you it really wouldn't be faster on the street overall, and would not be nearly as fun to drive in general. This is just my opinion of course
I DD a 228/230 114 LSA with 3600 stall and a 9" w/3:70 gears for 3 years. That was enough for me. I drove it 10 hours straight, and I sat in traffic on I95 with it. I dont know how anyone can call anything more extreme than my old setup a Daily Driver.
On top of all this, you are going to do a cam, then later in the year do heads, why not do it all at one time and have the right cam spec'd and pay for one tune?
On top of all this, you are going to do a cam, then later in the year do heads, why not do it all at one time and have the right cam spec'd and pay for one tune?
I'd like to do it all at once, but I can't afford it all at once.
Whenever I hear someone express concerns about driveability, that tells me he is someone with finer sensibilities, for whom subtle differences matter. My rec is you should go with the custom cam, which is still recommended by Martin, after all. And still a pretty decent sized cam for an LS1.
What's the LSA and advance on it, if you don't mind my asking?
What's the LSA and advance on it, if you don't mind my asking?
I forgot to ask about the LSA when I talked to him.
Yea, driveability is my main concern, I just wanted to hear some experiences and opinions about it.
Thanks guys.
TV2 here in a true daily driver. Drive it to work round trip about 50 miles. Total about a 1000 miles a month. No problems here. I too wish I had a bigger cam sometimes until you start with reliability problems. For example spit the bearings out a rocker. Definitely do the comp trunions. Keep in mine valve spring maintenance. As far as the track my high 11s on motor are normally plenty fast to feel fast on a Friday tnt.
TV2 here in a true daily driver. Drive it to work round trip about 50 miles. Total about a 1000 miles a month. No problems here. I too wish I had a bigger cam sometimes until you start with reliability problems. For example spit the bearings out a rocker. Definitely do the comp trunions. Keep in mine valve spring maintenance. As far as the track my high 11s on motor are normally plenty fast to feel fast on a Friday tnt.
Thanks.
That's pretty much all I'm looking for. I want it to be decently quick.
I'm also doing the trunion upgrade. I don't want to risk anything with the stock ones.
No problem. In my opinion the converter is the biggest key to the package. My little TV2 is still doing 11.8s so far on 275/60s and a ptc nitrous converter. If I was on 275/50s and a motor converter I feel I could easily go 11.5s. My car is a blast on the street and the nitrous brings it alive at the track. I would go with what he recommends and BTR valve springs. With the heads you are looking at it will be a bad little true daily street car. That's what I have to keep in mind at the track. I don't have a race car.
That 233/236 is a 113+3 on LSL/XE lobes. It'll work well with stock heads and even better with aftermarket. In fact, I'd look at the PRC or TFS As-Cast with that cam... it will work well with those aftermarket castings with their better I/E ratio than stock heads.
