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Need help figuring out compression ratio

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Old 01-14-2014, 09:00 AM
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Default Need help figuring out compression ratio

Having trouble figuring compression ratio out. I have iron block 9.230 deck height bored to 3.904 100% flat top pistons compression height of 1.328 stock stroke 3.622 stock rods 6.09 ls6 cnc heads 63.5 cc chambers and .051 head basket need help horrible with math remember the aluminum ls1 block is 9.240 and this one is 9.230
Old 01-14-2014, 09:20 AM
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Check out this site.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

It has a bunch of calculators for automotive applications.
Old 01-14-2014, 09:46 AM
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Thats giving me 11:1 pretty good site thanks
Old 01-14-2014, 11:00 AM
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Now calculate your dynamic compression ratio. If it's over 8.0, you'll have some trouble with pump gas in the summer.
Old 01-14-2014, 12:00 PM
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Now calculate your dynamic compression ratio. If it's over 8.0, you'll have some trouble with pump gas in the summer.
Wut? Plenty of people run DCR in the high 8s just fine on 93 pump gas.
Old 01-14-2014, 01:01 PM
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When I worked it out I come out with 10:9:1 static and 8:01 dynamic right were i had originally planed it
Old 01-14-2014, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by redtan
Wut? Plenty of people run DCR in the high 8s just fine on 93 pump gas.
This is 8.35 on pump gas. Sometimes you can get away with it, and sometimes you can't. Unless you're racing, keep it closer to 8.0.



And this is what can happen with E-85 at >8.5. It detonates up under the first ring land.

Old 01-14-2014, 03:39 PM
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I have found that website very useful many times.

Good Luck
Old 01-14-2014, 05:56 PM
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I'm running 8.500 DCR with zero issues on 93 octane through the brutal Houston summers. Patrick G is my tuner
Old 01-14-2014, 07:40 PM
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Sometimes you can get away with it, and sometimes you can't. Unless you're racing, keep it closer to 8.0.
And this is what can happen with E-85 at >8.5. It detonates up under the first ring land.
That's called a shitty tuner my man. Again, plenty of people on this site have ran in the mid-high 8s on 93 gas for thousands of miles, including myself, without as much as a hiccup.

I scan everytime I drive the car and I get no knock anywhere in the RPM range and I'm sitting dead on 8.8 DCR. Oh and this is on shitty winter blend no less.
Old 01-15-2014, 09:56 AM
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That's not a "shitty tune", that's a race engine running on the edge, lap after lap. No timing retard, so max power every lap.

You can get away with a high DCR, especially if you have a electronic ignition with a knock sensor. If there's any pinging, it will retard timing to protect the engine. But then you lose power. Do your dyno run on a hot day, with coolant temps above 200* or so and see what you get.

Keeping the DCR below 8 or 8.5 will maintain max power on pump gas. Especially if you keep it cool.

You can bump that up even a little bit more if you've polished the chambers a bit, and kept your quench down to 0.035-0.040".

Play with programs like Desk Top Dyno, and see what the power difference is between 8.5 and 8.0. It's such a small amount that you wouldn't even notice on the street. On the drag strip, it would be measured in thousands of a second.

If you're racing and need every HP you can get your hands on, it's worth it to push the edge. If you're looking for a fun street car that makes good power and will last forever, it's probably not worth it to push it that hard. All depends on what your goals are, and what risks you're willing to take.

But, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong.
Old 01-15-2014, 12:55 PM
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That's not a "shitty tune", that's a race engine running on the edge, lap after lap. No timing retard, so max power every lap.
Ok race engine running 7000rpm for an extended period of time you may be right to keep the DCR down for safety and logentivity.

However, I don't see the guy asking for a specific setup (aka circle track or road course engine). Thus on a regular street/strip engine where it doesn't see 7000rpm for hours on end, mid-high 8s DCR is more than doable.



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