jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to be boosting my trans am and I plan on running the stock crank and pistons but upgrading the rods piston rings an hardware. I will be running an f1-a procharger with a brute speed cam and 317 heads. What is the go to for rods and rings?

intenseblue

iTrader: (1)

Needs pistons. Callies Compstar rods and Wiseco pistons.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I agree. I wouldnt tear a engine down and build it up without forged pistons and rods, especially if it were going to see boost.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

I have a lq4 I'm going to build up but I'm not doing that imideatly. How likely are the pistons to fail?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Here's what I'd do:

Wiseco Boost Piston and Ring package (best price from WS6Store) and the Callies Compstar H-Beam Rod (best price from BTR)

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4583

http://www.briantooleyracing.com/cal...25ds2a2ah.html

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure if I want to spend 800 on pistons when they are going in a 100k mile block where it's not being checked or anything.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

You need to hone it if you replace pistons. Also, you'll need to get everything balanced... even if you stick with stock pistons, new rods will have different weights than stock and will require a rebalance.

They don't make any drop in 3.898" pistons unless it's Hypereulectic. And I gave you the part number for the 4.03" bore pistons for the LQ4. Here is the 3.903" for the stock block:

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4581

Pistons are actually going to fail before rods in a low RPM boosted scenario. Most folks put new pistons in with stock rods for peace of mind. If you plan to really crank up the boost or spin it over 6500, get some new connecting rods.

Also, if you go with a boost piston, I'd look at 243s or As-Cast 220s. The 317s would put your compression too low.

If you just wanted to add boost to the stock shortblock, the 317s would suffice. And if you're not willing to tear it down and build it up with forged rods and pistons, I'd just keep it stock and limit the boost and RPM, keeping it below 600rwhp.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

I know it has to be honed to change the rings but you think the pistons would really fail before the rods?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I'd keep stock or replace the pistons first.

If you go lean, you'll melt a stock piston. 2618 forging might last. Or fail in a way to minimize damage.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

If you're going to go through all the tear down effort, then forged rods and pistons are the way to go. Those who prefer ultra-cheap (stock) have remarkable success by opening up the ring gaps (.026"-.030") and keeping the boost moderate with a conservative tune. Jacking it up to get that number...9s or 8s or whatever is where you will eventually find the weak link...more than likely the pistons.