RockinWs6

Its not the weather stripping, its the entire assembly. The plastic rivets leak water, everything needs to be sealed with silicone. Test it with a water hose before you start and you will see what I'm talking about. Wet the cowling at the bottom of the windshield and watch what happens. It will drip water at about 40 places onto the top of the intake.

RockinWs6

Washing the engine off is not enough time for the water to seep past into the intake to cause a problem. Sitting overnight with rain dripping onto it for hrs is.

intenseblue

iTrader: (1)

You unbelievers just dont worry about it. for guys that are curious though the same thing happened to mine and i ended up with a hole larger than a golf ball in my number six cylinder. insurance company told me tough luck and i called another company for an opinion to get the same answer. no cover. i had liability though

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I have seen this happen a few times myself. Usually people want to blame CAI but I have only heard of maybe one time it could have been the fault of CAI. Most of the time its in cases like this where water just gets in from sitting in the rain.

intenseblue

iTrader: (1)

My car wasnt driven rain that couldve been sucked in. If you were to suck in water of any amount it would be felt in the whole car from the misfires. Mine sat in my driveway three days through a monsoon lol, no flooding, just non stop rain day and night. Came outside after it quit and roads were dry to start it and boom! Sounded like an old powerstroke out of oil for 2 sec and died

z28SSilvest

So what should we do? Just put silicone on the gasket and weather stripping? My car has a crate LS3 in it now.. Has anything changed in the ls3 to prevent flooding?

01pwtrta

Thanks everyone for the information. This is my first GM and my first F-body. Warm welcoming huh, lol. The plan is for a rebuilt LS1, cam, LS6 heads and headers. I am trying to get everything used to keep it on a budget.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

If he has full coverage that is, which i doubt on an '01.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I still carry full coverage on my 1998. $200 ded.

$90.00/mon Premium.

I guess everyone doesn't though......

.

RockinWs6

My 01 WS6 is well worth 15k, its has full coverage.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I believe in the water issue.

I have full coverage and my car never sees rain unless I'm caught in a pop-up storm.

RockinWs6

We have a believer!

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

Back to his original question:

You can find LS1 long blocks for a couple of hundred dollars in good running condition.

You can get a junk yard 6.0 for a bit more but it would most likely require a rebuild.

As stated above you can get running good running pull out engines on ebay.

There are a number of places you can get crate engines for $3-4K.

A complete rotating assembly will cost you about $2K by it's self.

I have no idea how much it would cost to weld the starter mount back on but it would require more than your average welding shop to do it right.

The questions you need to ask yourself is do you want to stay stock or go for more power. What are your skill levels and how much of the work are you willing to do yourself? Do you plan to go with a power adder in the future?

Think it out as far as what you might want to do in the future and use this as an opportunity to head that direction and only do it once.

Good luck.

RockinWs6

You can buy a starter bridge here http://2ndsucksracing.weebly.com/web-store.html 370 dollars is insane but it will save you from welding the block

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

That might be a good fix but I thing you could find a used block for less.

RockinWs6

good luck with that...............

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

I have purchased LQ4 blocks for $250, LQ4 short blocks for $600, and I have a LS1 short block I would sell for $400. So a bracket to fix a block for $370 seems a bit high to me. Maybe in your area they are blocks are higher.

RockinWs6

I personally wouldn't touch anything used unless it went to a quality machine shop 1st to be completely checked out. Too much bs buying used engine parts.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I'd buy a used 6L without much reservation. Take it .030" over to clean up any problems, mill the deck if needed, and have it thoroughly cleaned and magnafluxed and checked by the machine shop (lifter bores, main bore, cam bore etc). Line honed as necessary, etc.

Used LS1 would take more... since you can really only hone the cylinders. If something went bad and you needed to take it out .020" or so to clean up rust or damage... well that ain't happening.

RockinWs6

I'll explain how I do it, I run a bead of silicone along the rubber seal under it to seal it to the plastic cowl. Then I put plastic gloves on and run a bead of silicone along the frt edge of the cowling where it meets the metal, you have to use your hands to pack it into the space. Run silicone in the gap then use your fingers to push it into all the gaps along the frt.

Lastly I take a gob of silicone in my hand and force it onto the bottom of each large and small plastic rivet that holds the cowling on.
Usually it takes quite a bit of time to get it all sealed properly, when you think you have it all sealed use a hose on the top of the cowl and test it.
Water should not drip anyplace onto the engine. Usually I find a lot of small places I missed around the rivet holes. Just keep using your hand to pack silicone from the bottom of each rivet till they stop leaking water.

I always check the next time it rains that nothing is dripping after its raining a few hrs.

ALSO BE SURE TO TIGHTEN YOUR INTAKE BOLTS<89 inch lbs<proper way to tighten them is to loosen them 2 full turns then retighten in proper sequence in 3 steps.

Sorry the weather is too nasty here to take pictures right now.