1.7 mast motorsports black label roller rockers?
#1
1.7 mast motorsports black label roller rockers?
So i just bought a set of the new redesigned yella terras but while i was buying them i saw black label 1.7 roller rockers from mast. Any reviews on them? Good? Bad? Breaking issues and are they light?
#2
Anodizing is typically a no-no if you want the part to have good fatigue life. Check this out if you want to do a little reading: http://oatao.univ-toulouse.fr/3993/1/Mabru_3993.pdf
I can't say that I'm very impressed with the fit and finish either. There are sharp corners all over that thing (which also doesn't help fatigue life).
I'd stick with the YT's if I were you, there is no record of any of the "Rev 3" rocker arms breaking - and they've been out a little while now. Setup your wipe pattern properly, ensure your spring pressures are right, run the beefiest pushrods you can fit in your engine if you can swing it, and avoid really aggressive lobe profiles. Those things will help to ensure that all your components live a long happy life.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572507024-post1.html
I can't say that I'm very impressed with the fit and finish either. There are sharp corners all over that thing (which also doesn't help fatigue life).
I'd stick with the YT's if I were you, there is no record of any of the "Rev 3" rocker arms breaking - and they've been out a little while now. Setup your wipe pattern properly, ensure your spring pressures are right, run the beefiest pushrods you can fit in your engine if you can swing it, and avoid really aggressive lobe profiles. Those things will help to ensure that all your components live a long happy life.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572507024-post1.html
Last edited by ckpitt55; 01-26-2014 at 02:58 PM.
#3
Anodizing is typically a no-no if you want the part to have good fatigue life. Check this out if you want to do a little reading: http://oatao.univ-toulouse.fr/3993/1/Mabru_3993.pdf I can't say that I'm very impressed with the fit and finish either. There are sharp corners all over that thing (which also doesn't help fatigue life). I'd stick with the YT's if I were you, there is no record of any of the "Rev 3" rocker arms breaking - and they've been out a little while now. Setup your wipe pattern properly, ensure your spring pressures are right, run the beefiest pushrods you can fit in your engine if you can swing it, and avoid really aggressive lobe profiles. Those things will help to ensure that all your components live a long happy life. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572507024-post1.html
#5
#6
Yea i wasnt going to swap them to the mast was just curious to see if anyone ran them bc i havent heard anything about them. They didnt look the greatest. I have the new yella terras, 3/8 pushrods bc i have trickflow heads, eps lobed cam, btr slr lifters and .660 valvetrain so the soring pressure is only 400lbs. Is there a writeup for swipe pattern?
I did the same in my thread as well. Ended up needing .125" shim for pretty much all of them. It takes a little while and is tedious but I'd definitely recommend checking the wipe on all of your valve pairs. Case in point - there was one rocker pair on mine that only needed .100". The potential for mismatch is magnified if you've got cut down LS3 valves or valve jobs done by hand.
Be sure you do this before ordering your pushrods. The shim thickness will change what pushrod length you require.
One other tip - whiteboard markers work really well. Color the valve tip, let it dry for a few seconds, then carefully install the rockers and move it through the lift range the cam is commanding. To do this I put an indicator on the valve side of the retainer and watched the "valve lift" happen as I compressed the spring.
In the event the stock YT shims aren't thick enough, you can get the ones you need from Mcmaster Carr. I got varying thickness of steel shim - 11/32" ID, 13/16" OD.
With more mass over the valve, generally you need more control = more pressure to offset the increase in weight. If it hasn't been done it'd also be a good idea to shim your springs to within .050" - .060" (consult a professional for a value that will work with your application) of bind at max lift to take some of the "surge" out of them. This boosts your seat pressure slightly and reduces the amount of time the springs take to settle.
Last edited by ckpitt55; 01-26-2014 at 06:23 PM.
#7
Take your time and start actually learning something about setting this up. If you though aftermarket roller rockers needed less pressure then you are blindly spending money with little understanding, delay your project a few months while you learn all the things you should have BEFORE ordering missmatched components.
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#8
Take your time and start actually learning something about setting this up. If you though aftermarket roller rockers needed less pressure then you are blindly spending money with little understanding, delay your project a few months while you learn all the things you should have BEFORE ordering missmatched components.
#9
Most vendors will advise against aftermarket roller rockers because of the extra pressure they need to maintain control.
If you wanted to buy into the hype of aftermarket casting heads you should have spent the extra $150 to have them converted to powdered metal guides so you could run stock rockers with trunnion upgrade, would have save money vs roller rockers and heavier springs etc.
This is very basic and frequently covered if you do research outside of magazine articles.
If you wanted to buy into the hype of aftermarket casting heads you should have spent the extra $150 to have them converted to powdered metal guides so you could run stock rockers with trunnion upgrade, would have save money vs roller rockers and heavier springs etc.
This is very basic and frequently covered if you do research outside of magazine articles.
#10
Most vendors will advise against aftermarket roller rockers because of the extra pressure they need to maintain control. If you wanted to buy into the hype of aftermarket casting heads you should have spent the extra $150 to have them converted to powdered metal guides so you could run stock rockers with trunnion upgrade, would have save money vs roller rockers and heavier springs etc. This is very basic and frequently covered if you do research outside of magazine articles.