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1.7 mast motorsports black label roller rockers?

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Old 01-25-2014 | 11:16 PM
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Default 1.7 mast motorsports black label roller rockers?

So i just bought a set of the new redesigned yella terras but while i was buying them i saw black label 1.7 roller rockers from mast. Any reviews on them? Good? Bad? Breaking issues and are they light?
Old 01-26-2014 | 02:49 PM
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Anodizing is typically a no-no if you want the part to have good fatigue life. Check this out if you want to do a little reading: http://oatao.univ-toulouse.fr/3993/1/Mabru_3993.pdf

I can't say that I'm very impressed with the fit and finish either. There are sharp corners all over that thing (which also doesn't help fatigue life).

I'd stick with the YT's if I were you, there is no record of any of the "Rev 3" rocker arms breaking - and they've been out a little while now. Setup your wipe pattern properly, ensure your spring pressures are right, run the beefiest pushrods you can fit in your engine if you can swing it, and avoid really aggressive lobe profiles. Those things will help to ensure that all your components live a long happy life.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572507024-post1.html

Last edited by ckpitt55; 01-26-2014 at 02:58 PM.
Old 01-26-2014 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ckpitt55
Anodizing is typically a no-no if you want the part to have good fatigue life. Check this out if you want to do a little reading: http://oatao.univ-toulouse.fr/3993/1/Mabru_3993.pdf I can't say that I'm very impressed with the fit and finish either. There are sharp corners all over that thing (which also doesn't help fatigue life). I'd stick with the YT's if I were you, there is no record of any of the "Rev 3" rocker arms breaking - and they've been out a little while now. Setup your wipe pattern properly, ensure your spring pressures are right, run the beefiest pushrods you can fit in your engine if you can swing it, and avoid really aggressive lobe profiles. Those things will help to ensure that all your components live a long happy life. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572507024-post1.html
Yea i wasnt going to swap them to the mast was just curious to see if anyone ran them bc i havent heard anything about them. They didnt look the greatest. I have the new yella terras, 3/8 pushrods bc i have trickflow heads, eps lobed cam, btr slr lifters and .660 valvetrain so the soring pressure is only 400lbs. Is there a writeup for swipe pattern?
Old 01-26-2014 | 04:24 PM
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You need more spring pressure for the YTs. 450 is a good open pressure starting point.
Old 01-26-2014 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
You need more spring pressure for the YTs. 450 is a good open pressure starting point.
I thought i needed less because of all the failure it takes alot of stress off of the rockers. If thats true i have prc 675s so il be fine
Old 01-26-2014 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SStressin
Yea i wasnt going to swap them to the mast was just curious to see if anyone ran them bc i havent heard anything about them. They didnt look the greatest. I have the new yella terras, 3/8 pushrods bc i have trickflow heads, eps lobed cam, btr slr lifters and .660 valvetrain so the soring pressure is only 400lbs. Is there a writeup for swipe pattern?
Here ya go sir. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...e-pattern.html

I did the same in my thread as well. Ended up needing .125" shim for pretty much all of them. It takes a little while and is tedious but I'd definitely recommend checking the wipe on all of your valve pairs. Case in point - there was one rocker pair on mine that only needed .100". The potential for mismatch is magnified if you've got cut down LS3 valves or valve jobs done by hand.

Be sure you do this before ordering your pushrods. The shim thickness will change what pushrod length you require.

One other tip - whiteboard markers work really well. Color the valve tip, let it dry for a few seconds, then carefully install the rockers and move it through the lift range the cam is commanding. To do this I put an indicator on the valve side of the retainer and watched the "valve lift" happen as I compressed the spring.

In the event the stock YT shims aren't thick enough, you can get the ones you need from Mcmaster Carr. I got varying thickness of steel shim - 11/32" ID, 13/16" OD.

Originally Posted by SStressin
I thought i needed less because of all the failure it takes alot of stress off of the rockers. If thats true i have prc 675s so il be fine
With more mass over the valve, generally you need more control = more pressure to offset the increase in weight. If it hasn't been done it'd also be a good idea to shim your springs to within .050" - .060" (consult a professional for a value that will work with your application) of bind at max lift to take some of the "surge" out of them. This boosts your seat pressure slightly and reduces the amount of time the springs take to settle.

Last edited by ckpitt55; 01-26-2014 at 06:23 PM.
Old 01-27-2014 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SStressin
I thought i needed less because of all the failure it takes alot of stress off of the rockers. If thats true i have prc 675s so il be fine

Take your time and start actually learning something about setting this up. If you though aftermarket roller rockers needed less pressure then you are blindly spending money with little understanding, delay your project a few months while you learn all the things you should have BEFORE ordering missmatched components.
Old 01-27-2014 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Take your time and start actually learning something about setting this up. If you though aftermarket roller rockers needed less pressure then you are blindly spending money with little understanding, delay your project a few months while you learn all the things you should have BEFORE ordering missmatched components.
I am learning about valvetrain. And there are countless threads about anything over 400# spring pressure breaks these yella terras but you need over 400 pounds to control them. So its a toss up which is what confused me and i inquired about it
Old 01-27-2014 | 11:09 AM
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Most vendors will advise against aftermarket roller rockers because of the extra pressure they need to maintain control.

If you wanted to buy into the hype of aftermarket casting heads you should have spent the extra $150 to have them converted to powdered metal guides so you could run stock rockers with trunnion upgrade, would have save money vs roller rockers and heavier springs etc.

This is very basic and frequently covered if you do research outside of magazine articles.
Old 01-27-2014 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Most vendors will advise against aftermarket roller rockers because of the extra pressure they need to maintain control. If you wanted to buy into the hype of aftermarket casting heads you should have spent the extra $150 to have them converted to powdered metal guides so you could run stock rockers with trunnion upgrade, would have save money vs roller rockers and heavier springs etc. This is very basic and frequently covered if you do research outside of magazine articles.
Well i got a great deal from a neighbor on trickflows that was actually cheaper then me getting workd 243s got a 408 long block with trickflows yella terras the hole 9 yards for 2200 bucks. Cant run stock rockers i have a .650 lift cam i heard anything above .630 starts shreading the valve tip



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