What would you do in my situation?
#1
What would you do in my situation?
So my car has a knock after some burn outs a few months ago, its been sitting since then. I charged the battery and it was knocking pretty loud, I determined that the breakage was due to a low oil level + abuse. Stupid stupid stupid yes I know. You live and you definitely learn.
Pulled the valve cover and Checked the driver head and all was well, but never got around to checking passenger due to work. The only time i started it after the night it broke, it sounded like the knock was coming from the passenger side head. But it could've easily been coming from the bottom end as well.
Just towed it to a family friends shop and he's going to let me know what the damage is.
I have no experience with building/rebuilding motors, but if it's a spun rod bearing, what all would be involved with repairing that? New motor? Machine work? New crank? What about if it's a broken valve spring/rocker? I was thinking if its just a valvetrain issue, I'd just get a set of 243s off here and swap them, and get a nice 15-20 whp gain in the process. I'm trying to see what my options are here. Budget is a priority, I don't have the money for a new short block, I was thinking maybe an lq9/4 swap? Also time is important as this is my only car and I can only get rides to work for so long.
What would y'all do with budget and time being a main concern?
Pulled the valve cover and Checked the driver head and all was well, but never got around to checking passenger due to work. The only time i started it after the night it broke, it sounded like the knock was coming from the passenger side head. But it could've easily been coming from the bottom end as well.
Just towed it to a family friends shop and he's going to let me know what the damage is.
I have no experience with building/rebuilding motors, but if it's a spun rod bearing, what all would be involved with repairing that? New motor? Machine work? New crank? What about if it's a broken valve spring/rocker? I was thinking if its just a valvetrain issue, I'd just get a set of 243s off here and swap them, and get a nice 15-20 whp gain in the process. I'm trying to see what my options are here. Budget is a priority, I don't have the money for a new short block, I was thinking maybe an lq9/4 swap? Also time is important as this is my only car and I can only get rides to work for so long.
What would y'all do with budget and time being a main concern?
#2
Well in my case I spun the #6 rod bearing and pretty much trashed eveything except the top end. So I got a 370 LQ9 from Thompson Motorsports, and reused my top end, but with a bigger cam. It really depends on the extent of the damage. Have you checked the oil for metal?
#5
Well in my case I spun the #6 rod bearing and pretty much trashed eveything except the top end. So I got a 370 LQ9 from Thompson Motorsports, and reused my top end, but with a bigger cam. It really depends on the extent of the damage. Have you checked the oil for metal?
And yes its definitely going to be stronger better and faster after this, my taxes will be going to work on this one!
#6
Well it was like a deep knock that was somewhat dependent on rpm, but not always. Here is what you can do...start it up and listen from the top then from the bottom...if it's noticeably louder on the bottom that's not good
#7
Not sure on that one, I have a tendency to think worst case scenario. Well see what he says tomorrow. I did notice a vacuum leak which might've been what caused it to die when I was limping it home that night. It died coming up to a stop light.
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#8
I don't have the car or I would do this. But it was completely Dependant on rpm. The first night it was more of a slight tick, I really had to lean in the engine bay to hear it. When I started it a few weeks later, it was pretty cold out, and that same small tick became a knock that you could hear standing 10 ft back from the car. Not sure if since it was at operating temp vs 30 degrees would cause such a difference though.