jak2908

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm back into business, after selling my turbo z28 that was making a little over 600 at the wheels...awful troublesome with transmissions..but i digress..

looking to get back in the LS game but would like to consider an "all motor" build, i love the S**T out of high rev's..lets say 8000 or so...what does it take? start with an LS1 or go with a 5.3? Obviously looking for power, and high revs of course...just dont know where to start, even with heads...waaaaay to many options...advice anyone??

i know stock ls1 crank and rods can hold to 600+ at the wheels so i dont see much need for forged, but if you have a good explanation I'll listen!

Thanks in advace

nick Ritter

iTrader: (3)

wanting to know the same thing !

PREDATOR-Z

Money; you cannot cut corners to achieve that rpm level reliably.
Solid roller cam with appropriate heads.
Proper induction, beast gotta breath.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Yes the crank can handle a ton of abuse, BUT the load that 8000 places on the rods and pistons is very different from 600 turbo HP. HP is compressive load on the rod and piston. 8000rpm is HUGE tension when the piston is stopped and pulled back down at the transition from exhaust to intake stroke.


Bet by the time you get it to work reliably at 8000rpm you are going to spend more than you had on the turbo and the manners wont be there.

ez2cdave

(1) Budget - $12,000-$18,000 +/-

(2) Forged EVERYTHING ( Regardless of what you have heard or read )

(3) The best AFR cylinder heads you can find ( Yes, the "expensive" ones )

(4) Solid Roller Cam w/ Link-Bar Lifters ( Yes, the "expensive" ones )

(5) Shaft-Mounted Rockers ( Yes, the "expensive" ones )

(6) 3/8" Chrome Moly Pushrods

(7) Cloyes Hex-A-Just LS2 Roller Timing Set

(8) Oil Accumulator ( You're gonna suck the oil pan sump dry at 8000 rpm )

(9) Dry Sump Oil System ( "peace of mind" )

(10) ARP Studs - Mains & Heads

(11) Vacuum Pump System

(12) Etc, Etc, Etc . . .

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

At 8000 rpms the crankshaft is spinning 133.33 revolutions per second !!!
A 3.622 inch stroke crank equals 321.95 feet of piston(8) travel per second.
I'd stuff a 4.8 crank (3.27") into a 4.130" bore block (350.45 cubes) where
the same rpms equals 290.66 feet of piston travel. Either some 245 cc
cathedral style or 255 cc LS3 style rectangle port and as others have stated
a solid roller with at least 260-270 @ .050 duration and thick pushrods with
the best shaft style rockers. Baskets of money, research, and trust in the
professionals who have done this plenty before. 5000 converter minimum.

Iceman02

iTrader: (1)

Valvetrain set up and oiling is critical. The stress on your parts goes sky high spinning that kind of rpm.
In my last car I had a 446" BB Mopar. I shifted at 7800rpm. That engine required everything these guys mentioned above, plus aluminum connecting rods, 14:1 compression, a 286@.050 roller cam, and the monster valvesprings to match. High valve spring pressure is a pain in the butt to manage, but necessary for stability at higher rpms with a solid roller. They also don't last that long