Are rod bolts a good idea??
I suggest picking up a set of "budget" 4340 Forged rods. By the time you spend the extra money at the machine shop, you might as well step up on rod strength.
Scroll down till you hit your "budget" . . .
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...SortOrder=Desc
Scroll down till you hit your "budget" . . .
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...SortOrder=Desc
I'm not arguing one way or the other, just pointing out something most people may not realize until the trigger has been pulled.
It all really depends on what you intend to do in the future. By the time I figured fly cutting my pistons and arp bolts with machine work it was a better decision to just buy forged pistons and Callie's rods. Sure it cost more money but now I can throw a 400 shot at it or swap heads and turbo to 800-900 hp and it should last a good while longer.
This is one of those things where you end up saying, well I might as well get this too, and you end up with a built motor. If its a DD or anything close to it, or you can't afford a built bottom right now, I'd just limit the rpms to 6600 or so, and have a cam that peaks around 6200. Now, if you can afford it, go big and get forged pistons/rods. If you can't afford to push your luck, don't. If you can, go big.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 651
Likes: 10
From: North Carolina
"Speed Costs Money . . . How Fast Do You Want To Go ? "
When I was growing up in Ft. Lauderdale in the 1970's, "Bob's Speed Shop" had a sign saying that, right behind the Service Counter. I've seen the same or similar, in other shops, over the years.
http://bobsspeedproducts.com/
When I was growing up in Ft. Lauderdale in the 1970's, "Bob's Speed Shop" had a sign saying that, right behind the Service Counter. I've seen the same or similar, in other shops, over the years.
http://bobsspeedproducts.com/
Last edited by ez2cdave; Mar 17, 2014 at 06:35 PM.
I've already had to have an $800 aftermarket crank reground just to correct the stroke and throw index for a measly dirt streetstock application. Fricken deck heights were all over the place and it really looked like a nice peice until you started checking things closely.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 651
Likes: 10
From: North Carolina
So when you take your WAY cheaper overseas parts to a competant machine shop you end up finding out that the pin bushings need to be honed to correct the tight pin clearance(@$4/eachX8 rods+8 pistons)..another 64 bucks. Then they torque some bearing shells in the big end only to find out that they too are on the tight side or a few are inconsistent and then you're getting whacked another 50-60 bucks to correct that as well. I'm not saying to not shop on a budget but rather consider ALL the costs/risks involved when "saving money"
I've already had to have an $800 aftermarket crank reground just to correct the stroke and throw index for a measly dirt streetstock application. Fricken deck heights were all over the place and it really looked like a nice peice until you started checking things closely.
I've already had to have an $800 aftermarket crank reground just to correct the stroke and throw index for a measly dirt streetstock application. Fricken deck heights were all over the place and it really looked like a nice peice until you started checking things closely.
had high dollar ****, plenty import, and mostly stock w/bolts. I've built enough crap to see what happens when you don't measure and check every
single dimension of every part used.
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What kills rod bolts is RPM in a couple ways
1. Over Reving
2. Sustained High Rpm
I went from a M6 w stock rear and stock 3.42s to a TH400 w a Yank 4k stall and Moser Rear w 4.33s and w out changing the tune or anything in the Motor and I threw a couple rods out of the Block and Oil Pan and whiped out the Cam and Heads....Basiclly the whole motor was junk besides the Push Rods and Valve Springs......
-My car Made 402whp threw the TH400 and 9in
It all depends on your build
Ive seen 575whp Turbo build w a 6spd and they kept the Redline down to 6600rpm and the motors been fine....
Its not all about WHP is how the RPMs of the motor are going to be ran and in what mannor
1. Over Reving
2. Sustained High Rpm
I went from a M6 w stock rear and stock 3.42s to a TH400 w a Yank 4k stall and Moser Rear w 4.33s and w out changing the tune or anything in the Motor and I threw a couple rods out of the Block and Oil Pan and whiped out the Cam and Heads....Basiclly the whole motor was junk besides the Push Rods and Valve Springs......
-My car Made 402whp threw the TH400 and 9in
It all depends on your build
Ive seen 575whp Turbo build w a 6spd and they kept the Redline down to 6600rpm and the motors been fine....
Its not all about WHP is how the RPMs of the motor are going to be ran and in what mannor
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,106
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From: POULSBO WA.
What would be concidered a "safe" range for an LS motor? I run a LM7 5.3 with 162k and the 2000 .500 lift LS1 cam. Stock bottom end...what would everone recomend for a shift point for weekend bracket racing to keep it alive.
You could buy some factory LS6 rod bolts and put them in your rods. They are stronger, came in the '01+ LS1 motors and will let you spin your motor higher. Mine were only $68 from GM. Plus you get the benefit of new rod bolts in your bottom end. Just my .02, good luck
I thought the 97-2000yrs Thread Size were smaller than the 01 on up Ls1's.....
