Just got LS6 intake for our 99 TA and have questions
#1
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Just got LS6 intake for our 99 TA and have questions
So I picked up a LS6 this week, and since it seems I wont be working on the car til next weekend or who knows when, im researching anything I may need or need to do before I can install.
So it goes without saying that since its the LS6 intake, if I need the intake gaskets(the rubber ones it seems that fit into the intake, am I going to ask for 2001 C5 Z06 gaskets? Since its a used intake, im sure its best to replace now before installing so want to make sure I do that now.
Also been reading that I have to grind down the bottom of the intake to make room for the coolant lines? id rather not grind it down, so is there other coolant lines I can get? if so what do I ask for? the same 2001 C5 Z06 coolant lines?
So it goes without saying that since its the LS6 intake, if I need the intake gaskets(the rubber ones it seems that fit into the intake, am I going to ask for 2001 C5 Z06 gaskets? Since its a used intake, im sure its best to replace now before installing so want to make sure I do that now.
Also been reading that I have to grind down the bottom of the intake to make room for the coolant lines? id rather not grind it down, so is there other coolant lines I can get? if so what do I ask for? the same 2001 C5 Z06 coolant lines?
#2
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I converted to the LS6 intake.
The under-the-intake coolant lines were replaced with the newer system, where the two front coolant ports are joined together, with one line...and then the two rear ports are blocked off. This eliminates grinding of the intake. This front line is also built with a steam port, that I plumbed to the top of the water pump.
If I had read correctly, there was some concern that blocking the two rear ports caused isolation and incomplete flow of coolant, in the rear of the block, but I haven't noticed any ill effects.
I believe that the rubber gaskets are all the same...LS1=LS6.
The under-the-intake coolant lines were replaced with the newer system, where the two front coolant ports are joined together, with one line...and then the two rear ports are blocked off. This eliminates grinding of the intake. This front line is also built with a steam port, that I plumbed to the top of the water pump.
If I had read correctly, there was some concern that blocking the two rear ports caused isolation and incomplete flow of coolant, in the rear of the block, but I haven't noticed any ill effects.
I believe that the rubber gaskets are all the same...LS1=LS6.
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So im assuming that when you say they were replaced with the newer system that you replaced your existing lines with ones that don't require the grinding?
Any chance you can tell me what to ask for or look up online so can research and purchase?
thanks.
Any chance you can tell me what to ask for or look up online so can research and purchase?
thanks.
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#10
i just put a ls6 intake/egr delete on my car yesterday. I didnt do the coolant lines just ground down intake, coolant line seems like a waste of $50 when you can grind the intake for free and if you dont act careless you wont break the opsu
#12
i had bought an extra OPSU due to all the stories of people breaking theirs while removing the intake. I ended up buying the wrong one, but luckily i didnt break my stock OPSU. Ive now replaced intakes about 3 times and never broke a OPSU.
#13
Mine is original as far as I know and its a 99. But it dont matter how old or new it is if your yanking on it not paying attention of course it's going to break. Knowing it's there and ppl doing it you should know to be on the lookout for it and not break it
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in my experience the plastic was old and brittle didn't take much to break compared to the autozone one i bought. i removed the intake a few times after and didn't have a problem. i could have had just bad luck. it was a southern car that sat in the heat too. who knows.
#15
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I managed to swap from LS1 to LS6 intakes without breaking the OPSU.
I say retain the four corner head cooling. I don't care who hasn't had issues with blocking the rears, the rear of these heads is where they need the most cooling help. GM was able to save a few bucks on every engine by eliminating the rears. Go four corner.
I say retain the four corner head cooling. I don't care who hasn't had issues with blocking the rears, the rear of these heads is where they need the most cooling help. GM was able to save a few bucks on every engine by eliminating the rears. Go four corner.
Last edited by Paul Bell; 03-24-2014 at 06:16 PM.
#16
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I prefer knocking the bottom ribs off the ls6 intake and run the stock ls1 steamlines.Takes all of ten mins to do and really i used a medium flat head screwdriver and a light tap with a hammer and it breaks of flush.cleaned up the edges with a file and was good to go.Its also best time to check your knock sensors and their wires/rubberboot while the intake is off.
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thanks everyone..
I already have the sensor as im also removing the trans to replace the flexplate and torque converter.. so that was on my list to do, so maybe ill do the intake after the trans is out so I can replace once the intake is back in place..
really the other thing I was wondering is should I replace the rubber gaskets that fit into each opening before installing? is there a way to tell if its needed?
I already have the sensor as im also removing the trans to replace the flexplate and torque converter.. so that was on my list to do, so maybe ill do the intake after the trans is out so I can replace once the intake is back in place..
really the other thing I was wondering is should I replace the rubber gaskets that fit into each opening before installing? is there a way to tell if its needed?
#20