break in oil
break in oil Another oil question:
I am going to be firing up and breaking in a new (forged) engine soon, and the builder recommends 20-50 dino oil for break in. I will change at around 100 miles and 500 miles.
My question, will using the 20-50 oil for break-in cause any issues with going back to 10-30 after break in?
I am going to be firing up and breaking in a new (forged) engine soon, and the builder recommends 20-50 dino oil for break in. I will change at around 100 miles and 500 miles.
My question, will using the 20-50 oil for break-in cause any issues with going back to 10-30 after break in?
While I do not understand the logic of running a higher viscosity (as opposed to a different additive package) for break in, if the engine (bearing clearance) is set up to run on 10W-30 then switching to it should cause no issues.
I ran Joe Gibbs 15w-50 BR oil for the first start up through dyno tuning. Just changed it yesterday for the first time to Valvoline VR-1 10w-30. What ever oil you choose make sure sure the zinc content is high for brake in.
I understand using a break-in oil and the additional zinc, but why did you choose a higher viscosity? Was that the only viscosity available?
The reason I ran the 15w50 was my machine shop gave me 7-qts free of charge for all the $$$ spent with them. Also to add Joe Gibbs only offers the BR oil in 5w-30 and it seems to be a newer product than the 15w-50. So he's only offering 2 choices in the break in category.
???
After reading this thread I too have the same question about the higher viscosity.
The reason I ran the 15w50 was my machine shop gave me 7-qts free of charge for all the $$$ spent with them. Also to add Joe Gibbs only offers the BR oil in 5w-30 and it seems to be a newer product than the 15w-50. So he's only offering 2 choices in the break in category.
???
The reason I ran the 15w50 was my machine shop gave me 7-qts free of charge for all the $$$ spent with them. Also to add Joe Gibbs only offers the BR oil in 5w-30 and it seems to be a newer product than the 15w-50. So he's only offering 2 choices in the break in category.
???
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Not really sure on this. I've heard of people using the cheapest oil they can find to run upon first startup. Let it idle for a while, then drain it and run whatever oil you're planning on running.
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Since this isn't a flat tappet cam... here's what I'd do.
Get some Valvoline NextGen oil - $5 for 5 quarts from autozone usually. It's recycled oil. Run it for the first 30-60 seconds, especially if you used something like Joe Gibbs engine assembly lube - it protects on first start-up. Drain the oil to flush out any crap you might have in there from the build. But don't let the engine heat cycle.
Then run a good break-in oil for the first 500 or so miles (or 100/500 as advised by the builder), then change and run whatever your builder specifies. Let everything heat cycle several times during this process and vary the engine loads. Don't just cruise at 70 for 500 miles.
Now, why are break-in oils are thicker? Break-in protection. The surfaces have not yet had time to properly mate. Cam lobe and lifter wheel, rings and cylinder wall, bearings, etc. Thicker, higher viscosity oil usually provides a stronger film surface to protect those surfaces and the new bearings. Once things are "broken-in," you want whatever oil is appropriate for your clearances.
Shell Rotella-T is great for this as is the Joe Gibbs BR Oil.
Get some Valvoline NextGen oil - $5 for 5 quarts from autozone usually. It's recycled oil. Run it for the first 30-60 seconds, especially if you used something like Joe Gibbs engine assembly lube - it protects on first start-up. Drain the oil to flush out any crap you might have in there from the build. But don't let the engine heat cycle.
Then run a good break-in oil for the first 500 or so miles (or 100/500 as advised by the builder), then change and run whatever your builder specifies. Let everything heat cycle several times during this process and vary the engine loads. Don't just cruise at 70 for 500 miles.
Now, why are break-in oils are thicker? Break-in protection. The surfaces have not yet had time to properly mate. Cam lobe and lifter wheel, rings and cylinder wall, bearings, etc. Thicker, higher viscosity oil usually provides a stronger film surface to protect those surfaces and the new bearings. Once things are "broken-in," you want whatever oil is appropriate for your clearances.
Shell Rotella-T is great for this as is the Joe Gibbs BR Oil.
Now, why are break-in oils are thicker? Break-in protection. The surfaces have not yet had time to properly mate. Cam lobe and lifter wheel, rings and cylinder wall, bearings, etc. Thicker, higher viscosity oil usually provides a stronger film surface to protect those surfaces and the new bearings. Once things are "broken-in," you want whatever oil is appropriate for your clearances.
Shell Rotella-T is great for this as is the Joe Gibbs BR Oil.
Shell Rotella-T is great for this as is the Joe Gibbs BR Oil.
So would some break in oils be harmful to use with my Morel 5206 link bar lifters? I am sure my engine builder will know and I will ask them as well as Morel but I am just curious what you guys think.
Well a thinner oil lubricates better on startup as it's thinner. So there is no right answer. The thing with a break-in oil is it has high levels of ZDDP and other protective additives. They are formulated to protect a motor. The viscosity is really just a secondary concern.
Interesting the Morels have a warning about the viscosity. I probably would have gone with the 5w-30 if I was buying just because It's closer to the viscosity I normally run. Never really gave the viscosity much thought with the Joe Gibbs, more focused on the zinc and ani-wear protection I guess.
You'll be fine because Tick will tell you what to run since they are putting together the shortblock for you.
Since this isn't a flat tappet cam... here's what I'd do.
Get some Valvoline NextGen oil - $5 for 5 quarts from autozone usually. It's recycled oil. Run it for the first 30-60 seconds, especially if you used something like Joe Gibbs engine assembly lube - it protects on first start-up. Drain the oil to flush out any crap you might have in there from the build. But don't let the engine heat cycle.
Then run a good break-in oil for the first 500 or so miles (or 100/500 as advised by the builder), then change and run whatever your builder specifies. Let everything heat cycle several times during this process and vary the engine loads. Don't just cruise at 70 for 500 miles.
Now, why are break-in oils are thicker? Break-in protection. The surfaces have not yet had time to properly mate. Cam lobe and lifter wheel, rings and cylinder wall, bearings, etc. Thicker, higher viscosity oil usually provides a stronger film surface to protect those surfaces and the new bearings. Once things are "broken-in," you want whatever oil is appropriate for your clearances.
Shell Rotella-T is great for this as is the Joe Gibbs BR Oil.
Get some Valvoline NextGen oil - $5 for 5 quarts from autozone usually. It's recycled oil. Run it for the first 30-60 seconds, especially if you used something like Joe Gibbs engine assembly lube - it protects on first start-up. Drain the oil to flush out any crap you might have in there from the build. But don't let the engine heat cycle.
Then run a good break-in oil for the first 500 or so miles (or 100/500 as advised by the builder), then change and run whatever your builder specifies. Let everything heat cycle several times during this process and vary the engine loads. Don't just cruise at 70 for 500 miles.
Now, why are break-in oils are thicker? Break-in protection. The surfaces have not yet had time to properly mate. Cam lobe and lifter wheel, rings and cylinder wall, bearings, etc. Thicker, higher viscosity oil usually provides a stronger film surface to protect those surfaces and the new bearings. Once things are "broken-in," you want whatever oil is appropriate for your clearances.
Shell Rotella-T is great for this as is the Joe Gibbs BR Oil.