Heard loud crack on first torque of heads with GM bolts
Damn man I feel for ya. 
05-07-2014, 07:32 AM
#23
While head studs aren't needed for mild builds, using studs on these aluminum LS blocks eliminates the possibility of this happening.
05-07-2014, 05:04 PM
#24
Have to add my experience. New cast iron 6.0 block, 799 heads. I used the ARP bolts. I used the ARP thread cleaner (11mm) and ran it thru the bolt holes several times, started to get worried that I might wear out/damage the threads. Anyway, I applied the ARP Ultra Moly and proceeded to torque the bolts. They creaked and groaned, mild popping. Finished one head, late last night, and today I called ARP. They never heard of the bolts making a popping sound, but he indicated that the noise is thread bind due to dirty threads or inadequate lubricant. So today, I cleaned the bolt holes, on other side of the block, numerous times, sprayed in brake cleaner/carb cleaner and installed some shop towels to absorb the cleaner. Tomorrow or Friday I will blow out the holes, add more cleaner, blow them out again and apply a generous amount of lube and see what happens. I will post an update. Some additional FYI, the old instructions state to torque the M11's to 70 ft lbs and the M8's to 24 ft lbs. The new instructions ,with the Ultra Moly, state 75 ft lbs for the M11's and 25 ft lbs for the M8's. The ARP tech said to use the newer torque values.
05-09-2014, 02:40 PM
#25
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Sorry about your block OP. When I put in the ARP head bolts on my heads/cam swap, there was no popping, creaking, or noise whatsoever. I spent several hours on cleaning the holes, the ARP thread cleaners, paper towels to soak up fluid, blowing air into the holes etc. I would have pulled it all apart if I had heard any noise as at all.
05-09-2014, 08:34 PM
#26
I can't count the number of times I've thought something was wrong with my engine. Simply. Finish bolting up the rest of the stuff and give it a try. If its broke, then oh well.
05-10-2014, 10:19 AM
#29
Have to add my experience. New cast iron 6.0 block, 799 heads. I used the ARP bolts. I used the ARP thread cleaner (11mm) and ran it thru the bolt holes several times, started to get worried that I might wear out/damage the threads. Anyway, I applied the ARP Ultra Moly and proceeded to torque the bolts. They creaked and groaned, mild popping. Finished one head, late last night, and today I called ARP. They never heard of the bolts making a popping sound, but he indicated that the noise is thread bind due to dirty threads or inadequate lubricant. So today, I cleaned the bolt holes, on other side of the block, numerous times, sprayed in brake cleaner/carb cleaner and installed some shop towels to absorb the cleaner. Tomorrow or Friday I will blow out the holes, add more cleaner, blow them out again and apply a generous amount of lube and see what happens. I will post an update. Some additional FYI, the old instructions state to torque the M11's to 70 ft lbs and the M8's to 24 ft lbs. The new instructions ,with the Ultra Moly, state 75 ft lbs for the M11's and 25 ft lbs for the M8's. The ARP tech said to use the newer torque values.
05-10-2014, 10:47 AM
#30
The Op's **** popped because there was fluid in the hole and once the bolt created a hydraulic situation the aluminum casting was the weak link. Your situation I'm betting is not at all related to the threads but rather the sound of galling and interference at the head and washer. That is why ARP suggests to thouroughly clean the bolts and washers to remove the anti-rust crap thats on them during packaging. Most people mistake that stuff as lubricant and just leave it on. Once cleaned and the ARP moly on the threads; the correct thing to do is put EPL (extreme pressure lubricant) on both sides of the washers and then notice how much smoother the torquing process is as the Ft/Lb setting will now be measuring true fastener stretch as opposed to rotational resistance.
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