"eBay" Head Studs "How To" Video - Pro Comp - Alper
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"eBay" Head Studs "How To" Video - Pro Comp - Alper Got a "How To" video up of torquing down LSx heads with cheap "eBay" or Pro Comp head studs ($80). The torque sequence would apply to all head bolts or studs. The torque amount in this video is just my recommendation for these cheap studs. These studs dont usually come with instructions and leave people wondering how far to torque them. With my first set, I torqued them to ARP specs at 80ft lbs and learned that was a mistake. It streched a few of them. So I hope this helps someone out and makes the proecess a little smoother.
I welcome all of your feedback and experiences.
With your added input this thread will be even more helpful to others trying out these studs.
We dont needd a debate here on which is better ebay studs vs ARP. That has already happened enough on other threads.
Keep On Wrench'n!
The final amount of torque is a personal preference since the studs come with no instructions. I chose a final torque of 70ft lbs. Its a good idea to reach that amount in three even steps.
I chose:
-1st pass at 30 ft lbs
-2nd pass at 50 ft lbs
-Final pass at 70 ft lbs
If looking to purchase these head studs, Coloradospeed is a sponsor here that provides them:
http://www.coloradospeed.com/colorad...6-p-29216.html
Attachment below has the torque sequence.
I welcome all of your feedback and experiences.
With your added input this thread will be even more helpful to others trying out these studs. We dont needd a debate here on which is better ebay studs vs ARP. That has already happened enough on other threads.Keep On Wrench'n!
The final amount of torque is a personal preference since the studs come with no instructions. I chose a final torque of 70ft lbs. Its a good idea to reach that amount in three even steps.
I chose:
-1st pass at 30 ft lbs
-2nd pass at 50 ft lbs
-Final pass at 70 ft lbs
If looking to purchase these head studs, Coloradospeed is a sponsor here that provides them:
http://www.coloradospeed.com/colorad...6-p-29216.html
Attachment below has the torque sequence.
Last edited by AGearHead4Life; May 8, 2014 at 02:00 PM.
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The way I did it was a three step process as well, but I used ARP torque lube. It seems to work better than oil IMO. Also, after the third pass I let them sit for 30 minutes, then double check the torque @ 70 ft lbs. The idea behind this is that if the stud is going to stretch it gives it time to do so before you final check them.
Those are pretty much the torque specs that were recommended on a different thread in which people were giving insight on what torque sequence was used. The specs you posted are the same I was planning to use. Thanks for the vid!!!
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Thanks for the feedback and pointing out the sponsor. Do you have a link or a way to point towards that company so that I can post it in the first post? I dont know how to contact the sponsors here without googling their name and calling them. I'll post their name there now.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/colorad...6-p-29216.html
Thanks for the feedback and pointing out the sponsor. Do you have a link or a way to point towards that company so that I can post it in the first post? I dont know how to contact the sponsors here without googling their name and calling them. I'll post their name there now.
Thank you for the referral. We actually tested these on several cars, the first one being a boosted LS1 346 back in 2007. These studs work well so we decided to start selling them this year. We have a GP going, 75 bucks shipped with the 48 US states with a limited supply. Please go to the GP thread.
We have them for the Gen III and Gen IV at the same price and our own 7.4 pushrods for $60.
I think these are a great alternative even if you are running N/A. Just pay 30 bucks more over stock GM torque to yield head bolts. Why not?
I greatly appreciate the poster putting up the video and torque specs.
Thanks!
p.s. and remember "tight is tight".
We have them for the Gen III and Gen IV at the same price and our own 7.4 pushrods for $60.
I think these are a great alternative even if you are running N/A. Just pay 30 bucks more over stock GM torque to yield head bolts. Why not?
I greatly appreciate the poster putting up the video and torque specs.
Thanks!
p.s. and remember "tight is tight".
Last edited by COSPEED; May 7, 2014 at 12:26 PM.
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Quick question. After torquing the smaller nuts to 22 along the intake ports, do the studs sit below the top of the nut or protrude out? I just installed a set of these and it seems like the studs are a bit short as they are sitting below the nut face.
Which heads are you running. If it's thicker than stock then yeah. I know on the ETP heads I had to pull the studs out a little. I felt a little uncomfortable doing that. The ETP heads were even thicker than the AFRs.
Wish I would have seen this last week.. LOL
I just put a set of the ProComps on my LS1 and torqued them to 80 with no issues. Not having any instructions with the ProComp studs I went with ARP specs. I stumbled on this thread by accident. Went 40/60/80, which was about 1/4 turn each step, similar to the TTY bolts.
AFR 210 heads with MLS head gaskets. Hope it helps.
I just put a set of the ProComps on my LS1 and torqued them to 80 with no issues. Not having any instructions with the ProComp studs I went with ARP specs. I stumbled on this thread by accident. Went 40/60/80, which was about 1/4 turn each step, similar to the TTY bolts.
AFR 210 heads with MLS head gaskets. Hope it helps.
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iTrader: (5)
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From: Huntsville, Alabama - SA, TX is home
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 676
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From: Huntsville, Alabama - SA, TX is home
Thank you for the referral. We actually tested these on several cars, the first one being a boosted LS1 346 back in 2007. These studs work well so we decided to start selling them this year. We have a GP going, 75 bucks shipped with the 48 US states with a limited supply. Please go to the GP thread.
We have them for the Gen III and Gen IV at the same price and our own 7.4 pushrods for $60.
I think these are a great alternative even if you are running N/A. Just pay 30 bucks more over stock GM torque to yield head bolts. Why not?
I greatly appreciate the poster putting up the video and torque specs.
Thanks!
p.s. and remember "tight is tight".
We have them for the Gen III and Gen IV at the same price and our own 7.4 pushrods for $60.
I think these are a great alternative even if you are running N/A. Just pay 30 bucks more over stock GM torque to yield head bolts. Why not?
I greatly appreciate the poster putting up the video and torque specs.
Thanks!
p.s. and remember "tight is tight".
Thread Starter
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From: Huntsville, Alabama - SA, TX is home
I remember noticing this also. Its real close. I think if it was slightly counter sunk it wouldn't be an issue.