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Just bought tsp 228R, have questions

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Old 06-17-2014, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by redbird555
ya there are actually only a few "cam grinders" in the country, comp, cam motion, bullet, lunati and crane. the vendors all just tll the grinder what to cut and have it made. some people like EPS, Ed curtis Alan Futral etc have designed their own custom lobes that can only be gotten by going through them but they are still ground by the above. other vendors just pick "catalog" lobes out from the companies and grind them based on those
Thanks bud makes sense
Old 06-19-2014, 08:56 AM
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Bumping , is it ok to buy used springs? 6,000 miles on them supposedly. They are BTR dual spring kit ,tool steel retainers, .660 lift .
Old 06-19-2014, 09:43 AM
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in theory theres nothing wrong with used springs. BTR makes a nice kit also. However you can never be sure if they are in fact what they say they are. springs wear out so if you can verify they are good and in fact have only 6 k on them then cool if not then skip out.


also for that cam duals really aren't needed. They will put much more stress on the valvetrain and in reality dont offer much protection over singles. If a single breaks then the valve has the potential to smash into the piston if the rest of the spring cant "catch" it. If a dual breaks then the inner spring may not break and may help, but anyone who thinks that tiny inner spring is going to control the valve and stop it from smacking into the piston at a high rpm is nuts.

Personally for this cam if you get the btr springs for a steal then awesome if not I would run a good beehive like a pac 1518 or my personal choice psi 1511 and roll with it
Old 06-19-2014, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 01MAROONz2890
in theory theres nothing wrong with used springs. BTR makes a nice kit also. However you can never be sure if they are in fact what they say they are. springs wear out so if you can verify they are good and in fact have only 6 k on them then cool if not then skip out. also for that cam duals really aren't needed. They will put much more stress on the valvetrain and in reality dont offer much protection over singles. If a single breaks then the valve has the potential to smash into the piston if the rest of the spring cant "catch" it. If a dual breaks then the inner spring may not break and may help, but anyone who thinks that tiny inner spring is going to control the valve and stop it from smacking into the piston at a high rpm is nuts. Personally for this cam if you get the btr springs for a steal then awesome if not I would run a good beehive like a pac 1518 or my personal choice psi 1511 and roll with it

Thank you, I plan on running a beehive spring, just saw these BTR springs pop up and figured I'd get some input .
Old 06-19-2014, 10:19 AM
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You'll probably benefit from and barely notice a little more converter.....
3600+ = good times. If I were making the decision today I'd probably go with a SS4000.
I planned on going with a beehive spring also, but Geoff@EPS talked me out of it based on his personal experience. Also a BTR dual spring will offer you some insurance over a single beehive spring.

Peace
Old 06-19-2014, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarren_b
to give you an example, I did that same cam and all the parts you mentioned in my 99 camaro. I didnt change heads or intake, just cam..

I drove it around for 2 weeks before I got my tune. It honestly ran great and hardly had any driveability issues, I didnt even throw a CEL light. Just make sure youd dont get on it at all. Just to be safe
Haha I took mine to the track one time untuned! I know not smart, but I got it tuned shortly after. You won't resist getting on it right away to see the difference lol!
Old 06-19-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
Haha I took mine to the track one time untuned! I know not smart, but I got it tuned shortly after. You won't resist getting on it right away to see the difference lol!
What did you run? Slower than stock untuned? Or was it quicker?
Old 06-19-2014, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Transambrandon
What did you run? Slower than stock untuned? Or was it quicker?
About the same as before but I couldn't get any traction that day either. Picked up .5 after the tune.
Old 06-19-2014, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 01MAROONz2890
...but anyone who thinks that tiny inner spring is going to control the valve and stop it from smacking into the piston at a high rpm is nuts.
The inner spring seats into a "stepped" retainer which holds it in place just like the outer. The retainer then holds valve locks which do just what they say and lock the valve in place...if the outer breaks, the inner should hold the valve up.

When trying to save money, it's not always smart to buy used. Have the springs pressure tested before buying them. If they check out alright, you are probably safe to run them but they may only have another 10k miles left on them.

Last edited by Sales4@Texas-Speed; 06-19-2014 at 03:50 PM.
Old 09-16-2014, 02:59 PM
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Where is the best place to buy springs from. Looking at pac1218s . BTR has them for like $145.99, any other good springs out there for a better price?
Old 01-11-2015, 02:21 PM
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Bumping up my old thread, springs, oil pump, and balancer bolt are on the way. I have push rods and timing chain already. Should be putting this can in soon.

Can any one recommend a place to get extra retainer locks? From the write up I'm follow it says to get some JIC.
Old 01-11-2015, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Transambrandon
Bumping up my old thread, springs, oil pump, and balancer bolt are on the way. I have push rods and timing chain already. Should be putting this can in soon.

Can any one recommend a place to get extra retainer locks? From the write up I'm follow it says to get some JIC.
I dont think you're going to find any at a local part store. You could probably order some from TSP or the like. If you have a local ls shop near you they probably have a bunch of sock ones laying around.

They're always good to have but I've never needed one if you use a good spring removal tool and a pen magnet to "grab" them it all should be fine. When reinstalling coat them in a little whit lithium grease to help hold them in place
Old 01-11-2015, 03:22 PM
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Enjoy the camshaft! If you need a tune give us a call, we mail order tune these setups all the time!!

As far as springs are concerned we offer a single spring with better pressures than the 1218 for very reasonable $$tgay being said the prc .650" is hard to beat! I always like doubles.


We have some locks u can have. Just tell us!
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason 98 TA
Enjoy the camshaft! If you need a tune give us a call, we mail order tune these setups all the time!! As far as springs are concerned we offer a single spring with better pressures than the 1218 for very reasonable $$tgay being said the prc .650" is hard to beat! I always like doubles. We have some locks u can have. Just tell us!

I definitely will hit you up for a tune! Maybe we can do an email tune since I have HPtuners.
I'm looking at ls1howto.com and they said have some spare locks handy, I figured it never hurts to be prepared! If I could get a few spare ones from you that would be awesome.
Old 01-12-2015, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by redbird555
I dont think you're going to find any at a local part store. You could probably order some from TSP or the like. If you have a local ls shop near you they probably have a bunch of sock ones laying around. They're always good to have but I've never needed one if you use a good spring removal tool and a pen magnet to "grab" them it all should be fine. When reinstalling coat them in a little whit lithium grease to help hold them in place

Cool thx for the info!
Old 01-13-2015, 08:24 AM
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What's the best way to keep the lifters from falling?

I see the pen magnet way or using a wooden dowel.
Old 01-13-2015, 09:11 AM
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I've always used the dowel rods. I used to get them at Michaels for under a dollar each. I doubt it's changed much.
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Old 01-13-2015, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Sales2@Texas-speed
I've always used the dowel rods. I used to get them at Michaels for under a dollar each. I doubt it's changed much.

Thanks,

For removing the balancer pulley bolt, if I have a big air compressor and impact gun, do I have to remove the starter and stick a screwdriver threw the flywheel to stop it from spinning?


I'm just trying to see exactly what I need and have to do. so when I start tearing into it, I don't run Into any surprises.
Old 01-13-2015, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Transambrandon
Thanks,

For removing the balancer pulley bolt, if I have a big air compressor and impact gun, do I have to remove the starter and stick a screwdriver threw the flywheel to stop it from spinning?


I'm just trying to see exactly what I need and have to do. so when I start tearing into it, I don't run Into any surprises.
I have seen that method used but I've never done it that way. There are tools you can use that hook to the balancer and pry itself to the floor, or something makes shift. A manual could also just leave it in gear.
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Old 01-18-2015, 02:37 PM
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Oil pump removal, is it required to loosen the oil pan bolts so it drops? Or can the oil pump come off without lowering the pan?


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