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LS6 Vs. BBK (dont bring up heat soak)

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Old 05-27-2014, 04:15 PM
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IMO, the only clear disadvantage the BBK SSI has to the LS6 intake manifold is weight. That's if adding additional weight is truly a issue for you.
Old 05-27-2014, 04:39 PM
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Aluminum, an plastic do have different thermo properties. But it doesn't, to very rarely have affect on performance. Heating up and cooling down from engine operating temp. The second half, isn't logical at all, the cooling down doesn't really matter unless you some how are looking at a non running engine for data? So you can't really use any of that for performance as we are. And the warming up is not practical it doesn't really apply to 99.9% of the time you are going to look at a difference (WOT engine performance).

One time would be on a dyno- doing a short one gear WOT pull for a few seconds. From a full cool down to room temp, engine. Not running for any period of time, running is a big open room (not under a hood) Like for a magazine article or a marketing add to sell intakes. But no one races dynos, and everyone that run one of these intakes are on a street driven cars. That is never raced when the intake is not warmed up yet anyway. We don't go WOT unless we are at operation temps and just live with that fact that we could make a few more hp if the intake was colder, and our engine lasting 100K+ miles. In favor of not and having engine damage form cold bearing clearances, ring clearance, oil temp,valves spring and valve train damage. Like you would on a dyno engine, if you had to show max numbers in engine masters, and you wouldn't run a LS6 or BBK intake anyway. (and none of them use plastic intakes anyway LOL)

Or if you raced a LS in a drag racing, heads up class you wanted to get and use max power, with the intake cold ice, and not start the car and push it to the track. You can't run a BBK or a fast in a stock classes, and any modified,comp class with a LS you wouldn't use a stock,BBK or fast too. And use a heavy re worked cast 4barrel style or a sheet metal that would be made out of alum not plastic.
Old 05-27-2014, 05:14 PM
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It's none of my business but..

A good buddy of mine ran a bbk intake for around 2 years. Put the intake on at the same time as heads/cam so we don't know how much power if any it gained.

But what made him eventually change the intake was a conversation with our tuner, Jeremy Formato. Jeremy stated that although cold the bbk might make more power on a dyno than an ls6 intake, it will not at operating temperature. He said that in his experience, cars with the bbk intake make less and less power each pull he would do on the dyno. If that's not heat soak, I don't know what is.. He went as far as to bet us that at full operating temperature, the car would dyno higher with a stock ls1 intake manifold than it would with the bbk..

If you can't trust a reputable tuner who can you trust?
Old 05-27-2014, 05:57 PM
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I ran a 11.13@124.86 with the BBK intake. I replaced only the intake with a stock LS6 manifold = 10.90@127.05. What more do you want?
Old 05-27-2014, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
Shoulda went with a FAST...just sayin
I understand that a fast is a better intake but let me reiterate that I have a 3 bolt style Nitrous plate that I dont intend on getting rid of, a metal intake will be safer for my nitrous, the bbk is still easily ported and has plenty of meat on the bone and it looks good doing it..

Not only that. I sold my ls6 for 425 and bought a bbk with all the hardware and a bbk throttlebody for 350.. I can then sell the throttle body since I dont need it and lessen my cost even more so Id say its a win win.. ill take that for the 10hp ill be leaving on the table
Old 05-27-2014, 08:18 PM
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heat soak can become a problem when you are doing a lot of back-to-back-to-back-to-back dyno pulls or hot lapping the **** out of it at the track. THAT is exactly what he was referring too. It is also not very hard to over heat an engine on a chassis dyno.

One thing that is far more of a problem than intake manifold heat soak is the temp of the air being drawn into the filter. When you are drawing in 250+ degree air into the filter, any amount of heat soak the intake may have is irrelevant. Personally I like to run a temp sending unit in front of the filter and another at the throttle body in the MAF while I am doing any type of testing. Most people's "Cold" air intakes do little more than provide a larger filter that draws nothing but hot engine compartment air. When you draw air in that is 100-150+ above ambient it does not matter what the temp your intake manifold is really....
Old 05-27-2014, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Hardcoresoldier
heat soak can become a problem when you are doing a lot of back-to-back-to-back-to-back dyno pulls or hot lapping the **** out of it at the track. THAT is exactly what he was referring too. It is also not very hard to over heat an engine on a chassis dyno.

One thing that is far more of a problem than intake manifold heat soak is the temp of the air being drawn into the filter. When you are drawing in 250+ degree air into the filter, any amount of heat soak the intake may have is irrelevant. Personally I like to run a temp sending unit in front of the filter and another at the throttle body in the MAF while I am doing any type of testing. Most people's "Cold" air intakes do little more than provide a larger filter that draws nothing but hot engine compartment air. When you draw air in that is 100-150+ above ambient it does not matter what the temp your intake manifold is really....
agreed on all of that. I can definitely see a problem out at the track on a hot day and running it wot several times and not having any kind of airflow to cool things down inbetween laps.

On that note.. here is my cai, Couldnt get it any farther away from the motor. I also have my foglight bezels cut out so its nothing but outside air. and the filter is huge



Old 05-28-2014, 09:09 PM
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but unless the filter is sealed off from the engine compartment you will still be sucking in warmer air than necessary. I am going to do some testing on my Vararam to see how close to ambient I can get my IATs when measured at the throttle body.
Old 05-30-2014, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Hardcoresoldier
but unless the filter is sealed off from the engine compartment you will still be sucking in warmer air than necessary. I am going to do some testing on my Vararam to see how close to ambient I can get my IATs when measured at the throttle body.
Ive checked my IAT's on numerous occasions and with my setup, they have always read within 5 degrees of outside temp if not the exact temperature
Old 05-30-2014, 09:41 AM
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As you can see I also relocated my IAT to the filter so its as accurate as it can be
Old 06-04-2014, 12:51 PM
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If anyone was wondering, I got the intake installed and couldnt be happier. it was a little harder to get the intake to seal but im assuming that its just because it doesnt flex like the composite. Once I got everything lined up and tightened down in the sequence that bbk suggests, I didnt have any issues..

Definitely a SOTP difference over the LS6. ill be getting it dyno'd soon to confirm the gains. seems to have more midrange grunt and pulls more smooth all the way to 6500 where my ls6 seemed to die off at the very top. It also muffled my valvetrain noise which I was happier about, im sure because the of the thicker material rather than plastic.

Overall I couldnt be happier with this intake. Im a believer in the BBK!

Old 06-04-2014, 01:31 PM
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Glad it went on so easy for you. Looking forward to seeing the dyno reults.



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