Thank god they had one in stock. Asking for a die also for the bolt just in case.

 

Fixed the thread with the m16x2 tap and the new bolt screwed right in. I welded an extention onto the end of the tap and wrenched it in. Im happy.

 

Glad it was fixable, and your not spending the weekend pulling the motor.

 

Glad that worked. I took notes, in case I need this info later.

Don't waste money on various dies just to repair external threads, like a bolt. Although that works, you need to buy one for every different bolt you might screw up, and that gets expensive. Get one of these instead.

http://www.grainger.com/product/NICH...set&s_pp=false

 

Once the metal of the threads, internal or external, are damaged, you cannot "repair" them. Damaging threads means shearing off the thread at it's root or crushing it flat. Running a tap into say a damaged crank will clear out the damaged threads allowing the bolt to turn in and reach good threads. The trick is getting the tap through the damaged section and still being inline with the good threaded section. If it's off, the tap will remove the good threads.

Hardened steel nuts and bolts are not made of soft stuff that can be put back in place. Once threads are compromised, they have no strength.

This is required reading (RIP Carroll Smith):

 

I wonder just how many crank threads have been screwed up because of LS1howto.com. I bet it's a **** load.

 

I bought three feet of 16 x 2.0 all thread from Fastenal and a few nuts and just made my own balancer installer. works pretty good

 

I got from McMaster-Carr 12 inches of 124,000 psi rod, some heavy hex nuts and I fashioned a 3 x 3 inch 1/4 steel plate as the "washer".

I'm ready.