strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

You will also need to clearance the block for the rod bolts, balance the rotating assembly, hone the cylinders to your finished bore size and swap cam bearings. I assume you already have headers and exhaust. Lots of liitle costs that come up when doing a motor so figure that into the budget before starting.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

As a result of this post, I got a *sweet* deal on a 383 stroker kit... So, in the next couple of weeks, I'll be pulling the motor to start the rebuild. I'm thinking I'll leave the motor out until I have the funding for the head and cam package. But in the mean time, I'll keep this thread in mind - https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=building

ktmrider

Yep, lots of good deals out there now. I just picked up an Eagle kit from Keith Craft "www.keithcraftmotorsports.com" for $1995 plus a little more due to custom pistons for my application.
I agree on the Eagle vs Lunati concerns. Major spray, competition type stuff might make the Lunati and/or Callies items a little less of a price pinch. For me and my iron block LS1 creation the Eagle is just the ticket. Keith Craft builds some pretty mean motors using Eagle and swears by them ( of course this is after Eagle reworked their stuff ).
StrokedLS1, you mention clearancing the block for the rod bolts? All my info says staying at or below the 4.000" stroke means no block mods are needed? Hope this holds true as I do not want to make another trip to the machine shop!

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I worked on a 4" callies with eagle h-beams and it definitely needed clearance as it would hit the bottom of the cylinder. Nothing a air grinder can't take care of in an hour. Thats why we preassemble and check clearance and fit. The iron block on the other hand needed no extra work to fit a 4.075 stroke with carrillo h-beams.

ktmrider

Thanks, strokedls1, for the heads' up. Good reminder not to rely on good looks and luck when assembling any engine! Especially me, the looks department went south long ago ;-).

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Didn't read that your going iron block. You should be fine. The alluminum is the one that needed clearancing.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

stroked - Are you aware of any of the same issues with the 4" Eagle crank? Do you have any pictures of the area you had to grind?

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Email me at jmh75@earthlink.net and I will send you a picture. It is too big for an attachment.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

These issues w/clearancing the sleeves for the rod bolts, etc are issues associated with any crank/rod setup (or any engine build for that matter). It's the nature of the beast. Sure, other brands may be less likely but it's gonna have to be checked anyway regardless

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

With comments like the one I have set in bold and underlined above. I would take anything this person has to say with a grain of salt. The hardness of a metal has very little to do with it being "good".

The cast iron a potbelly stove is constructed from is hard to drill. That hardly makes it a good metal for a crankshaft.

Make no mistake,Eagle products are not high quality. Sufficient?Sure. I know there are alot of people making power with those parts. That still doesn't mean they are high quality.A watch from the dollar store will tell time.

There is a reason there parts are so much cheaper. To the best of my knowledge the majority of their parts are manufactured in China by companies with suspect manufacturing processes.

I'd rather spend the extra money to buy the product from a Company that uses known good materials in facilities staffed by knowledgable persons. Piece of mind is very important to me.

racer7088

There is also something called overkill. Do you see stock cranks breaking much even under crazy NOS as far as drag racing is concerned? Why not run a Sonny Bryant? You could and I have no problem with people that do that on the street but you could have used that money more productively elsewhere basically. The Lunati stuff is very very nice but I'd say it's mostly wasted money on a normal street race engine but piece of mind or if you have the money anyway is great. I think Lunati stuff is killer if you can afford it. It's better than the block you're using for the most part!

2002_TAWS6

Reaaallly? how big of a cam are we talking here? How much would something like this cost? i have most bolt ons and i know my cam will have to go. Didnt expect that much hp and tq on stock heads though. Did you mean ported stock heads?

Would appreciate it if you can PM me the details. Thats the kind of setup im thinking about getting.

Constrictor 98TA

What kind of numbers are people putting down nowadays on 408 ci motors with ported heads, all boltons and a good cam? Is 500 RWHP N/A asking too much?

ktmrider

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I think quite a few folks have been close to and above the 500 marker. Most of the magic is in the head/cam choice. The plus guys are in the 427 sleeved blocks by that time, tho. Still, lots of potential in the LS1 geometry. Just need to determine what your ultimate desires are and if the pocketbook will support it!

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

500 with the 408 is defentially possible for the 6 speed cars. The auto's dont quite make it these w/o some huge compression or solid roller setup's.

460 using stock heads in a 383 should be avarage as long as everyother bolt on is in place the tune is top notch the car is a 6 speed and the cam is in the high 230 duration or higher.

2002_TAWS6

Ok one important question on what you mentioned:

Are you talking 100% stock untouched LS1 heads? or ported heads? That makes a huge difference.

So lets say with a 383 stroker kit and ported stock LS1 heads and a cam like the MTI X1 cam (230 227 .591 .571 112) I should be able to do 430rwhp 430rwtq with the regular bolt ons (no fancy 90mm TB and LSX intake).

Is this true? or anywhere near possible?

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

You dont need the extra cubes if this is all you are trying to achieve.
Just do a nice heads and cam package, headers, exhaust and all the bolt on's with a good tune and you will be there with stock cubic inches.
Go check out the dyno section and see what it takes to make that power in a H/C car. It is quite easy.
There are many making that power with stock unported LS6 heads.

I personially am not a huge fan of that cam as I believe something like the F13 would be a better porew provider while suffering very little driveability differences.
It is a 230/232 58x/ 59x if my memory is correct.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Just looked at your sig. You are only a few thousand dollars and a couple decisions away from 430+ HP.
Another cam I will say gets good reviews that is large is the G5X3.
Call a few companies. Start with the sponsors to your right.
Call Absolute speed/PP/TEA/LG motorsports/MTI/Thunder/ etc.
That will get you in the right direction.
You dont need to spend the 5 thousand + dollars on a 383 shortblock. In all reality you are about 3000 dollars away with your current setup.