I have an opportunity to pick up the following parts for just under $2700.

Eagle 4340 4.000" Stroke - 434640006100
Eagle 3-D H Beam Rods 6.200" - CRS6200B3D
JE Flat top Pistons # 194881 - 3.905" Bore Only
11.0:1 with 66cc Heads)
JE file fit Rings set - 1.5 1.5 3mm Rings
Clevite 77 Rod Bearings CB663H
Clevite 77 Main Bearings MS2199H

Should I jump on it?

 

I've been told the Eagle kit is junk. I was advised by a sponser of this board of this.

 

We are selling the same stuff for 2499.00 right now with any JE piston and 2399.00 with Diamonds.

The Eagle stuff is fine, The first cranks were not able to balance under the bobweight they shipped with but that has been corrected now. If you're in Houston come on by.

Whoever told you that the Eagle stuff is junk is trying to sell you more expensive stuff like Lunati. The Lunati stuff is very nice but probably a little overkill for most people. I haven't seen many stock cranks even break even with some really crazy abuse.

http://www.horsepowerengineering.com/houston.html

 

for comparison, my stroker kit with Lunati crank and Lunati rods was about $3500.

Eagle should be fine but after spending thousands for the new motor, I would personally spend a lil more for the Lunati.

 

is that the kit thats listed on ebay?

 

You could pick up the same parts from summit for less dough. JE pistons + rings 800, crank 1k, rods 500, bearings 125.

 

Eagle has worked out the early issues on the 383 kits. we can do them for a lot less than $2700.00

 

jrp - yes

I'll be in touch with a few of you this afternoon.

 

The machineshop that did my motor said that the previous Eagle products were high quality,I know they had some problems with the first LS1 cranks but I believe they took care of the problems.Also the local speedshop guy told me they had sold serveral Eagle LS1 cranks to another machine shop that builds LS1s and he said they worked fine!He also said that the Eagle cranks were hard to drill to balance meaning made of good metal.I haven't seen anyone mention it but Crower is building cranks for the LS1 now,I'm sure that would be a good crank!I'm building a 408 ironblock and may use the Eagle crank like Hp said theres been some killer engines built with the stock crank, even heavy NO use,that put tons of stress on internals.As a side note theres a guy a local dragstrip that runs 5.4's in 1/8 mile at122mph in a M ustang and he's running a cast crank!!

 

Check out the new price on HPE's 408 short block.
John

 

Eagle stuff is great for most NA apps we are looking at. Even some moderate spray motors will live a long time with Eagle parts.

Now 9000rpm and 1100HP? I would consider that iffy

I would buy from a sponsor here.

 

Thanks for all the resonses. Something is ate up bad in my motor right now... It uses a quart of oil every 100 miles, smokes like a chimney, and is just embarassing to drive. I hadn't planned on rebuilding the motor this soon, but the smoke is getting to me. I've been in touch with a few shops and I'm still debating on whether or not I want to rebuild the motor myself or pay someone to do it. Since I have to do the rebuild anyway, I'd like to go ***** out, but, the more I research, the more my wallet begs for death. That being said, my original plans of making a +500rwhp daily driver are fading away with the sunset. Looks like I'm going to be settling for 400-450

 

im intertested in a kit like this but am a newbie at this stroker stuff......... if i wer to buy this kit what would i be looking at for install so lets say 2600 for the stroker kit..... another 1000 for install ? Would i need heads ? I already have a B1 cam ? Thanks guys in interested, o btw its an 2002 SS

 

This leads to my next question... If I proceed with rebuilding the bottom end as a 383, I won't be able to do the heads/cam for another 6 months or so. Has anyone else been through this situation? How is the car with a 383 bottom end with a stock top end? I would imagine it's like ****, but I'd like to know what to expect.

 

Do a forged 346 instead IMO. And get some decent heads and a cam.

 

just change the rings on this set-up with heads and cam you will need for the 383. they just buy a bare used block and install the rotaing assembly. diffrence is the block cost but then again you could always re sell your short block as new rebuilt.

 

That's a good point. I was thinking since I have to tear down the motor anyway to replace the rings, might as well beef it up too. Time (not enough of it) is the biggest obstacle I have with this project. I'm only home a few months a year

 

I thing if your "new goals" are to achieve 400-450 RWHP that you are spending way more money then you need to.
Tear down the motor, you probally just have a ring problem, then change the rings. Buy a stage 2.5 Heads and cam package and with the right bolton's (Not mac headers, which aren't bad but aren't as good as LT's) you should be 430+ easily in a M6. Total cost of a sweet H/C package will be around 3 G's and should include gaskets, pushrods, valves, springs, retainers, etc.
Rings are like 125-150. You say you can do the work yourself, so there you go.
You will then need a tune, some new headers, good exhaust amd all the other bolt on's. I believe your goals can be done and still be very streetable.

 

so can i just slap in the 383 kit into my short block as it stands now ?

 

At least do the cam now it is 400 bucks

Then you can pull and swap the heads later. Also go with ARP headstuds so you dont need to screw around replacing those either later. I think depending on cam size 460RWHP/440RWTQ is possible on stock heads with a 383