gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I thought that the injectors might have been new.
Since they are not, and the engine had been sitting around, unused, there is a good chance that they are gummed up. More quickly, you could swap a couple of the injectors and see how it goes.

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

gMAG, The engine is a newly built 408 however the injectors are indeed used but have been stored properly, However at this point I am willing to try just about anything. I'll piddle with it more this evening hopefully.

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

Update- Well this evening I verified that all grounds are attahed to the rear of the heads. The driverside does that ( 3 ) grounds total ( 1 ) bolted on the intake side of the head, the other one is on the header side with ( 2 ) grounds on ( 1 ) eyelet. There is ( 1 ) on the passanger side head clost to the intake. All good here.

Picked up the noid tool today and performed the injector test today. By all indications the injectors are pulsing as they should.

Also checked the coils it appears that the coils are sparking a little sometimes then all of a sudden the spark would knock your dick in the dirt. Sounds as If I am back to square one again.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Have you noided the coils?
You could also noid the coil grounds, obviously you don't want to see anything on the ground side, at all.

I did look at the schematics. Coil control for each comes directly from the PCM.
There is nothing that groups the cylinders that aren't running.

Did you guys use HPT to log the crank trigger pulses?

Werewolf SS

iTrader: (3)

Have you used a spacer on the crank sensor?
The fact that certain cylinders aren't firing makes me think the reluctor wheel on the crank is off. Either for some reason the pins on some of the wheel aren't being picked up (worn, short, dirt, something) or the wheel itself is out of round. It doesn't take much to make it so that the crank sensor doesn't pick up the wheel at certain spots if their out of round or the wheel is partly warped.

Best of luck, Like Ron said above, hook up HPT and see if you can log the trigger pulses. If you see dead spots between rotations then it lets you know either sensor or wheel is off.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

^^^as this person said.
Also, you have a pulse at the injectors, but are they flowing gas? They can have a pulse, and be gummed up, too.
If you know that #1, 7, 4, & (2?) are not combusting, have you swapped a "good" injector with a "bad" one?

Chevy406

iTrader: (12)

One common connection with cylinders 1, 4, 6, 7 is the power supply for the injectors. We checked a sampling of injector connectors and each one is receiving 12 volts. I really don't think this is an injector issue seeing how it's throwing a P0336 code & the tach doesn't work.

Ron - you've thrown up a new one for me - I've never tried to data log crank trigger pulse. That would have been a great test last Saturday. I'll mess with the scanner and get a config setup. Why don't you bail out of Oregon and come hang out in Alabama? We've got high temps, high humidity, and lots of bugs to keep us company in the summer down here.

Appreciate all the help from this community.

Eric - I think it's time to pull that starter (for the 3rd time) and watch the crank sensor while you rotate the engine. I've been suspicious of that crank sensor the whole time but trying "not to go there" until it becomes the last resort.

RockinWs6

Pull crank ..send crank back to Callies... Good Luck

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

I am not touching it tonight, I gotta take a break away from it. I learned a long time ago that sometimes it better to walk and leave it along for a little while and clear your head.

Clyde, I'll drop the starter tomorrow evening and check it. Good thing is that the fiberscope actually takes video.

I'll update when I check out the crankshaft reluctor wheel.

Eric

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

Well I have an update, I dropped the starter ( yet again ) removed the CPS, inserted the fiberscope the reluctor ring is good and straight no bends anywhere. However upon further inspection the reluctor ring was installed on backwards. How I found this out is I still have my factory crank. There are ( 2 ) rings on the crankshaft that make it up. On each reing there are 12 small notches and 12 larger ones. I compared the location of the notches between the cranks and they are different this explains why the engine is not firing as it should.

I've already spoken with the supplier whom I purchased my rotating assembly from they are willing to re-install the reluctor ring on it again free of charge and pay the shipping to them however I would be liable for shipping back to me. I'm out the labor for the R/R and all of everything else.
That doesn't seem fair enough to me. What do ya'll think? The crankshaft manufacture said that they would fix it for free as well.

At this time I dont want to say whom either one is until I guve them a chance to make everything good for all parties involved.

Thanks to everyone who helped with suggestions on what you thought the problem may of been I appreciate everything.

Eric

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Very glad you found it! The clue was in the old post you looked up.

Gads. A simple mistake. For those of us who have seen exactly one crank, it just wouldn't be easy to spot.

Any local shops that could fix it for you? It takes a special alignment tool. Could save you time and money.

It will run sweet when done I'm sure!

Ron

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

I'm not but a couple hours away from the manufacture they are in Memphis and are willing to help me out with it. To me that is much easier and quicker for me that boxing everything up and shipping it to whom I purchased it from.

Guess we will see how everything shakes out when it's all said and done!!!

Eric

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

Here is the link to the old thread that I found as well just in case someone else needs it one day.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...us-inside.html

truckdoug

iTrader: (25)

wow. please update the thread as it progresses.
good eye spotting that.

also, i'd be real pissed. they gotta make right. if that's what it turns out to be, holy cow what a boner move.

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

Bad thing is I didnt spot it until it was already in the car.

Pissed I am, but that isn't getting my car going. I am discussing it with the supplier at the moment.

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

After another long weekend working on this I am more confused and disgusted. I dropped the Trans and removed the rear cover so that I could take a look at the reluctor wheel closer. After speaking with technical services at Lunati on Friday, they told me that it is possible to install the reluctor on backwards however very unlikely. According to them there are 2 holes on the ( face ) of the reluctor looking from the flex plate end that has a V facing the outer edge of reluctor. On the opposite site the hole is completely round. With that said if the reflector was to be on backwards you would look through the hole and see the V and it would be obvious that it was on wrong.

Well looking at mine from the flex plate end it is on correctly.

Originally I was basing my findings of it being on wrong by the ( tang ) or notch location on the original crank to the new one. I guess I was wrong, as the locating pin on the end of the crankshaft is what sets the reluctor, according to Lunati you can't go by the notch location in relation to the ( throw ) counterweight of the crankshaft.

Some people had told me that it was an injector not pulsing properly, or the coil being bad. Well I thought what the heck that sounds logical so today I swapped both from a known working cylinder NO LUCK!!!

Back to square one I guess this crap is getting very old!!!

RockinWs6

Check carefully and compare it to your stock crank. It should look identical. even if its on proper side in it maybe out of position with the crank firing order.

Chevy406

iTrader: (12)

Check this thread on reluctor wheel alignment:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13468595-post5.html

http://www.goodson.com/Reluctor_Ring_Installation_Tool/



I am still very suspicious of the reluctor wheel.

RockinWs6

I am too, I think its either bent or out of phase etc.

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

Well, I have spent another 2 nights chasing this darn thing. I feel like a dog that keeps chasing its tail.

Yesterday I had ( 2 ) local guys come over and try to hekp me troubleshoot this thing. One is a service technician at a local automotive repair facility, the other is a diesel mechanic that I know.

To start with I went over to my local dealership yesterday and they were nice enough to give me a complete set of wiring schematics for the PCM and every electrical item under the hood minus and lighting. So to start with we removed plug # 1 which was not firing. Checked for fuel, yeah we determined that there was adaquate fuel reaching the cylinder. Once that was determined we removed the the plug wire from the plug, I installed a new plug in the end of the wire spun the car over several time, we get great fire at times and then it will stop firing WTH? After suggestions from them we decided to check the CPS yet again installed another one no luck. Remover the wiring checked for ground and power all was ok. Removed the wiring to the camshaft position sensor all looked ok hooked everything back up still nothing. However when we attempted this time the tachometer worked for a bout 10~20 seconds and then stopped again. I got mad yet again and sent everybody home.

Well tonight, we removed the wiring from both the crank, and camshaft position sensor, checked for proper ground its all good, checked for proper voltage the both read 12.86 volts. Still nothing. So we removed the PCM connections checked, every ground pin on both connections all is good. I am 100% sure that there is not a grounding issue.

As I see it now the only other two items that it could be is the reluctor wheel or the PCM. I'm being told by everyone that there is no way to check the PCM, however there has to be someway to check is. Heck is you buy one fro the parts house its a remanufacture unit. So with that said there has to be a way to test it.

Surely I am not the first person to run into this.

Also looked at the reluctor wheel again all look's great with it.

Does the cam sensor or the crank sensor worh the tachometer? I feel like the original problem is tied into the thch not operating properly. Heck I msy nr eromh yhough.