Would this timing Chain Kit fit
2006 is a Gen IV block, so a Gen IV timing chain will work with a Gen III block, provided it uses a 1X sprocket (just one raised half moon looking "phaser") vs a 4X (which has 4 - two quarters and two smaller "phasers"). If it's a 4X, I think you can use if you swap to a 1X cam sprocket.
The chain off the 6.0 is better than the LS1 and will work with your existing gears. I'd just do that if you are that hard up on cash. Personally, I prefer to see a beefier chain and billet sprockets, since this sets the timing of the motor and accuracy is paramount, especially when you start running higher performance parts.
The chain off the 6.0 is better than the LS1 and will work with your existing gears. I'd just do that if you are that hard up on cash. Personally, I prefer to see a beefier chain and billet sprockets, since this sets the timing of the motor and accuracy is paramount, especially when you start running higher performance parts.
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2006 is a Gen IV block, so a Gen IV timing chain will work with a Gen III block, provided it uses a 1X sprocket (just one raised half moon looking "phaser") vs a 4X (which has 4 - two quarters and two smaller "phasers"). If it's a 4X, I think you can use if you swap to a 1X cam sprocket.
The chain off the 6.0 is better than the LS1 and will work with your existing gears. I'd just do that if you are that hard up on cash. Personally, I prefer to see a beefier chain and billet sprockets, since this sets the timing of the motor and accuracy is paramount, especially when you start running higher performance parts.
The chain off the 6.0 is better than the LS1 and will work with your existing gears. I'd just do that if you are that hard up on cash. Personally, I prefer to see a beefier chain and billet sprockets, since this sets the timing of the motor and accuracy is paramount, especially when you start running higher performance parts.
It's this one from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6616-b
Last edited by Dale002; Jun 26, 2014 at 08:52 PM.
You'll be hard pressed to find a billet double roller set for that cost.
As the crank & cam gears are the same, and the LS1 chain has been superseded by it anyway, just get the LS2 chain. It's within your price range:
https://sdparts.com/details/gm-facto...parts/12586482
Also, be wary of cheap knock-off chains and sets, they're everywhere. This is one thing where you want the real McCoy, whether it be a GM or aftermarket brand name chain.
As the crank & cam gears are the same, and the LS1 chain has been superseded by it anyway, just get the LS2 chain. It's within your price range:
https://sdparts.com/details/gm-facto...parts/12586482
Also, be wary of cheap knock-off chains and sets, they're everywhere. This is one thing where you want the real McCoy, whether it be a GM or aftermarket brand name chain.
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Summits chains are made by AS Not sure how good they are but know they sell in different price range. I'm being offer this one at this price only because the guy that has it never got install in his car and has now sold it. I'm not up to speed on the sprocket size of 4x and or 1x. What those these number mean?
The LS1/6 engines are 24x with a 1x cam pickup in the rear of the engine.
The LS2 engines are also 24x with a 1x cam pickup but it's the block on the cam gear with the sensor through the timing cover.
Later engines are 58x with a 4x cam pickup, also through the timing cover.
Current engines are also 58x/4x but with one bolt through the cam gear.
GM chains themselves interchange for all years. The thicker LS2 chain is what they use now.
The LS2 engines are also 24x with a 1x cam pickup but it's the block on the cam gear with the sensor through the timing cover.
Later engines are 58x with a 4x cam pickup, also through the timing cover.
Current engines are also 58x/4x but with one bolt through the cam gear.
GM chains themselves interchange for all years. The thicker LS2 chain is what they use now.
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The LS1/6 engines are 24x with a 1x cam pickup in the rear of the engine.
The LS2 engines are also 24x with a 1x cam pickup but it's the block on the cam gear with the sensor through the timing cover.
Later engines are 58x with a 4x cam pickup, also through the timing cover.
Current engines are also 58x/4x but with one bolt through the cam gear.
GM chains themselves interchange for all years. The thicker LS2 chain is what they use now.
The LS2 engines are also 24x with a 1x cam pickup but it's the block on the cam gear with the sensor through the timing cover.
Later engines are 58x with a 4x cam pickup, also through the timing cover.
Current engines are also 58x/4x but with one bolt through the cam gear.
GM chains themselves interchange for all years. The thicker LS2 chain is what they use now.
24x and 58x refers to the ''teeth'' on the crank reluctor ring. 24x systems need a 1x cam reluctor ring. 58x systems need a 4x cam reluctor ring. The cast-in blocks on the cam gear make up the reluctor ''ring''.
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ok Pau Bell, got it Thanks! Kind of figured it was something I knew nothing about. LOL!So as you said earlier I can use a 58x timing set since my cam sensor is in the rear as long at the set has the three bolt type cam gear? This is the timing set I'm talking about.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6616-b
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6616-b
It's been said many times that a double roller set is un-needed. Most times, the LS2 chain is more than enough-and you won't need to shim out the oil pump.
I'm doing a big 383 build and I went with a single roller Roll Master set.
I'm doing a big 383 build and I went with a single roller Roll Master set.
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Agreed and have decided to go with the LS2 chain. I didn't think about needing to shim the oil pump. Thanks for the info.
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Well, I when ahead and purchase the LS2 chain and the trick flow damper bracket with the LS2 damper. The chain is a much stronger chain than the LS1.However, after installation I turned the engine over a few rotations to make sure everything was ok and the chain slaps the damper and kind of almost seems like it get jam up for a split of a second then it lets go and hits the damper, Specially when you turn the engine slow. If you keep constant rotation it seems ok. I'm sure this is normal. Thank you Paul Bell for recommending this route.
