My First Heads/Cam Install
#21
I have zero mechanical ability, and just did my head and cam swap myself with the help of my good friend blkbird.
It was fun and learned cool stuff. I will say that it is straight forward process. Just make sure to take your time, and be patient. Expect a few roadblocks and few extra trips to parts store.
Ls1howto and post up questions on here and you will be good to go.
Pretty good feeling to do it on your own rather than pay a shop. Plus you know nothing shady happend to your car.
It was fun and learned cool stuff. I will say that it is straight forward process. Just make sure to take your time, and be patient. Expect a few roadblocks and few extra trips to parts store.
Ls1howto and post up questions on here and you will be good to go.
Pretty good feeling to do it on your own rather than pay a shop. Plus you know nothing shady happend to your car.
#22
I have zero mechanical ability, and just did my head and cam swap myself with the help of my good friend blkbird.
It was fun and learned cool stuff. I will say that it is straight forward process. Just make sure to take your time, and be patient. Expect a few roadblocks and few extra trips to parts store.
Ls1howto and post up questions on here and you will be good to go.
Pretty good feeling to do it on your own rather than pay a shop. Plus you know nothing shady happend to your car.
It was fun and learned cool stuff. I will say that it is straight forward process. Just make sure to take your time, and be patient. Expect a few roadblocks and few extra trips to parts store.
Ls1howto and post up questions on here and you will be good to go.
Pretty good feeling to do it on your own rather than pay a shop. Plus you know nothing shady happend to your car.
My concern now is tuning, did you trailer your car to a shop for tuning?
#23
It adds up fast, but you are on the right track. Add to that new coolant, oil and filter for first 50 or so miles, etc. I ended up adding a lot of ARP bolts to my install, especially recommend the intake bolts as I seem to have had to pull mine multiple times for different reasons.
I also replaced the water pump and timing chain cover gaskets. Didn't want to have to pull the crank pulley again if there was a leak.
#24
#25
#26
If you want to cut some cost I'd start with #4. $380.00 Harland Sharp SLS17 - 1.7 Ratio RR's , and just do the trunion upgrade to the factory rockers. I'd then consider the TFS GenX 220 Cylinder Heads for about $1750 a pair. You're still getting a excellent set of heads that will still work great with future upgrades. So that's another $860 there, or about $1100 total. Also keep in mind that most often you can write off shipping cost by keeping your purchase dollar amounts up above a set amount, through many of the LS1Tech sponsors.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 07-12-2014 at 03:22 PM.
#27
Lots of people drive them to the tuner, just don't install larger injectors until you get there. I drove mine and it was fine besides it stalled a few times, go real easy on it.
After the first test drive around the block or whatever, change the oil again. It will probably still have a lot of residual fluid in it.
After the first test drive around the block or whatever, change the oil again. It will probably still have a lot of residual fluid in it.
#28
If you want to cut some cost I'd start with #4. $380.00 Harland Sharp SLS17 - 1.7 Ratio RR's , and just do the trunion upgrade to the factory rockers. I'd then consider the TFS GenX 220 Cylinder Heads for about $1750 a pair. You're still getting a excellent set of heads that will still work great with future upgrades. So that's another $860 there, or about $1100 total. Also keep in mind that most often you can write off shipping cost by keeping your purchase dollar amounts up above a set amount, through many of the LS1Tech sponsors.
#29
Lots of people drive them to the tuner, just don't install larger injectors until you get there. I drove mine and it was fine besides it stalled a few times, go real easy on it.
After the first test drive around the block or whatever, change the oil again. It will probably still have a lot of residual fluid in it.
After the first test drive around the block or whatever, change the oil again. It will probably still have a lot of residual fluid in it.
#31
@S7ven, I'd have to agree with 99Bluz28, I'd 86 the idea of the Harland Sharp rockers for the Comp trunnions and running the TFS 220's (or even PRC's or Ported LS6's). I think you're asking all of the right questions and being honest with your own abilities. You should have no problems tackling this project on your own. On the upside, you'll come out knowing a lot more about your ride from firsthand experience. Have fun!
#32
I am in the home stretch of a cam/head swap myself. I largely agree with everything said above. I went through Texas speed to buy the cam kit, maryland speed for the slp oil pump /double roller timing chain upgrade and brian tooley racing slr lifters as far as buying the majority of things from sponsors. I have the same under the curve goal as well with little concern for peak hp. I saved money by sticking with the ls1 head and just having it milled/valve job as well as cleaning up the ls1 intake manifold. I left power on the table but I had a price cap of $2,000.
Chose to use tsp comp cams grind 224/228 .58x/.58x 110lsa, this was as close as I could get to the torque cam recommendation on here i think by 99Bluz28 actually. the lower 110lsa should make this mid cam lope and keep the power lower for DD duty.
Judging simply by your post count I'd say you have the majority of research done, and you know this forum is a powerful source of info.
F.Y.I 1: you definitely need new injectors, call fuel injection connection they have been helpful for me. 2: Driving untuned on stock injectors has been proven to work.
Chose to use tsp comp cams grind 224/228 .58x/.58x 110lsa, this was as close as I could get to the torque cam recommendation on here i think by 99Bluz28 actually. the lower 110lsa should make this mid cam lope and keep the power lower for DD duty.
Judging simply by your post count I'd say you have the majority of research done, and you know this forum is a powerful source of info.
F.Y.I 1: you definitely need new injectors, call fuel injection connection they have been helpful for me. 2: Driving untuned on stock injectors has been proven to work.
#33
@S7ven, I'd have to agree with 99Bluz28, I'd 86 the idea of the Harland Sharp rockers for the Comp trunnions and running the TFS 220's (or even PRC's or Ported LS6's). I think you're asking all of the right questions and being honest with your own abilities. You should have no problems tackling this project on your own. On the upside, you'll come out knowing a lot more about your ride from firsthand experience. Have fun!
#34
I am in the home stretch of a cam/head swap myself. I largely agree with everything said above. I went through Texas speed to buy the cam kit, maryland speed for the slp oil pump /double roller timing chain upgrade and brian tooley racing slr lifters as far as buying the majority of things from sponsors. I have the same under the curve goal as well with little concern for peak hp. I saved money by sticking with the ls1 head and just having it milled/valve job as well as cleaning up the ls1 intake manifold. I left power on the table but I had a price cap of $2,000.
Chose to use tsp comp cams grind 224/228 .58x/.58x 110lsa, this was as close as I could get to the torque cam recommendation on here i think by 99Bluz28 actually. the lower 110lsa should make this mid cam lope and keep the power lower for DD duty.
Judging simply by your post count I'd say you have the majority of research done, and you know this forum is a powerful source of info.
F.Y.I 1: you definitely need new injectors, call fuel injection connection they have been helpful for me. 2: Driving untuned on stock injectors has been proven to work.
Chose to use tsp comp cams grind 224/228 .58x/.58x 110lsa, this was as close as I could get to the torque cam recommendation on here i think by 99Bluz28 actually. the lower 110lsa should make this mid cam lope and keep the power lower for DD duty.
Judging simply by your post count I'd say you have the majority of research done, and you know this forum is a powerful source of info.
F.Y.I 1: you definitely need new injectors, call fuel injection connection they have been helpful for me. 2: Driving untuned on stock injectors has been proven to work.
#36
You are much better off buying a new TFS as cast 225 head which will save you money or a PRC as cast 225 head which will save you even more money if you use your stock rocker arms with a milder lobed cam for your 450rwhp goal. The costs or problems end up running into with used heads is they think they can bolt them on and run them when in reality they might need a valve job, someone had crappy valve train geometry and now the valve guides are worn, the springs are shot and don't have enough seat pressure for the cam you are looking to run. You would have to get the used heads for a rather good deal to ensure if any of those happen you still come out ahead. Sometimes it can be all of them.
#37
You are much better off buying a new TFS as cast 225 head which will save you money or a PRC as cast 225 head which will save you even more money if you use your stock rocker arms with a milder lobed cam for your 450rwhp goal. The costs or problems end up running into with used heads is they think they can bolt them on and run them when in reality they might need a valve job, someone had crappy valve train geometry and now the valve guides are worn, the springs are shot and don't have enough seat pressure for the cam you are looking to run. You would have to get the used heads for a rather good deal to ensure if any of those happen you still come out ahead. Sometimes it can be all of them.
#40
I've been looking for some good book references so I'll check them out. I'm thinking one of the books I've read so far was actually written by Potak, good information.