s7ven

To start out, I have zero first-hand experience with cracking open an engine. I have done headers, motor mounts, full exhaust(OR Kooks TD), and several suspension upgrades so I have some ability to turn a wrench.

I don't want to make this first post insanely long, I've got tons of questions but I'll just explain what I'm wanting to do.

The heads/cam install is for a summer weekend car that will mostly be driven on the street and maybe a few trips to the strip. My car is already really loud and it handles and drives harshly due to suspension upgrades so I'm not that concerned when it comes to street manners. I want broad power under the curve, I do not care about peak power, especially if low end power suffers. I want to use the stock LS1 short block for now and may upgrade down the road.

My first decision to make which will determine my budget...I expect to spend around $4000-$5000:

Do the work myself or have a shop do it?

I appreciate any feedback or advice.
Edit: Car is a 2001 TA WS6 M6 with kooks headers, kooks true duals, SLP air lid, and a few other suspension mods

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Its not too difficult, of course, if you have experience its easy to say that but first time i dealed with that it wasnt too hard. What are your power goals?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Honestly I would not take on a project of this magnitude if I had no experience with engines in general. That's just my opinion

NW-99SS

iTrader: (6)

ls1howto.com

Look up the heads/cam installation for F-bodies - you will learn a lot!

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

If you can change motor mounts in these cars you are qualified to do a heads/cam. I would rather do a heads cam swap then a set of motor mounts in a 4th gen.

s7ven

I am aiming for about 450 rwhp peak but if I can get more under the curve with less then I'm all for that. MWC fab 9 will be the follow up project.

s7ven

I understand the process and theory at least to a basic degree. I have been reading on this forum and other book references for months. I just have no hands on experience.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

My point of view is if you want to learn and have this type of stuff as your hobby, then there is no better way to learn than doing it. If it is not important to you to develop your skills in this area and the idea of having these skills is not that exciting to you. Pay someone else to do it.

s7ven

I've used that site as well as stickies on here to do past projects. Definitely some good reading materials and howtos. This forum has helped me out a lot along the way. I guess what I'm really needing help with at the moment is planning.

s7ven

I think the installation itself is not quite as scary as actually getting the car running afterwards. Do I invest in a hp tuners license and do the tuning myself or trailer it to a shop for tuning? Working on my car has become a passion and I really enjoy the learning process. I prefer to do it all myself even if I make minor mistakes.

tsquared38016

iTrader: (8)

Make sure you have tools in your budget or have access to them. You should have a cam degree wheel, impact wrench, torque wrench, torque angle gauge, adjustable push rod for push rod length and valve lash, cheater valve springs for PTVC. There are probably other items I am forgetting.

One expense people forget are the bolts. Most are torque to yield and will not be reused.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

dont pull the balancer on with the bolt like ls1howto says. use a threaded rod or a proper install tool.

s7ven

I will definitely put these on my list, thinking of going with the reusable ARP head bolts.

s7ven

This a tool I should rent or buy?

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I had the same experience as you before I did my H/C.....installing bolt-ons etc. Never taken an automotive class in my life, but am very mechanically inclined. As long as your organized and have a high attention to detail its not hard at all, just time consuming. I wouldn't hesitate at all to do it, and you'll learn a ton about the car.

One thing you'll need for sure is a new clutch. Around 400rwhp the ls6 becomes worthless.

s7ven

Thanks, I think that I'll probably be doing this myself then. I work as a systems analyst so I pay very close attention to detail. About 2 years ago I could barely change the oil. I guess my biggest challenge afterwards is either getting somebody to trailer it for me or tuning it myself well enough to drive it to a shop.

I'll add the clutch to my list, I figured after an engine build up and rear/ds the tranny would be the weakest link.

After all the research I've done I'm leaning towards choosing the tea tfs 215cc heads and getting a cam custom grind...is this a combo that could yield decent power?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Sound like you've got the mechanical ability, you'll just need to make sure you've got all the torque specs and tightening sequences , and the proper tools to do the job. You'll also need the time, patience, and a desire to do the work yourself. I'd also highly suggest you compile a list of all the supporting parts(Oil pump, timing gears/chain set, Lifters, lifter trays, rocker arm trunion kit, push-rods) an supporting assembly parts(bolts, gaskets, seals), and fluids(oil, coolant, assembly lube, thread sealant, thread locker, silicone sealant/gasket maker), you'll need. I feel this is where a lot of people under-estimate the cost, and then try and take short-cuts. Whether you rent, borrow, or buy the tools you don't have that's you to decide.
IMO if you even think you might tear into the engine again I'd go ahead and at least get a set of ARP head bolts and crank pulley bolt, probably water-pump bolts to.

You might also want to consider pulling the transmission while the engine is apart(easier) and replacing (if needed) the pilot bearing, rear main seal, clutch, flywheel, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder). This's all of course if your budget permits.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Roughly, as far as cams keep the intake duration under 230(.05"), and the lsa in the 110-112 range.

s7ven

Taking all the input so far into consideration I compiled a list of parts/tools and an approximate cost. The list is pretty general and I'm sure I will drop or add things before it's complete. I have quite a few tools from previous projects which includes tons of sockets/adapters, wrenches, an impact, and a few torque wrenches. Hoping I can get some things used or at a reduced cost:

1. $2,610.00 Trick Flow 215cc GM LS Cylinder Heads
2. $220.00 Morel Hydraulic Roller Drop-In Lifters
3. $32.00 GM Lifter Tray for all LS Engines (1 Guide) x4
4. $380.00 Harland Sharp SLS17 - 1.7 Ratio
5. $56.00 GMPP LS-2 HD Timing Chain
6. $150.00 Melling Performance High Volume Oil Pump
7. $400.00 Custom Camshaft
8. $175.00 ARP High Performance Series Cylinder Head Bolt Kit for 97-03
9. $160.00 Head Gaskets - Don't know which one yet
10. $30.00 ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits
11. $35.00 ARP 12 Point Balancer Bolt Kit for LS7
12. $28.00 Header Gaskets
13. $105.00 Brian Tooley LS Chromoly Pushrods 3/8" - unknown length
14. $150.00 Coolant, oil, oil filter, assembly lube, thread locker, anti-seize
15. $20.00 Comp Cams Hi-Tech Length Checking Pushrod
16. $100.00 Harmonic Balancer Removal/Install Tool Set
17. $100.00 Cam Degree Kit
18. $100.00 Valve Spring Compressor
19. $4.00 Cheater valve spring

The total comes to around $4850 which does not include any shipping or tuning related costs.

NW-99SS

iTrader: (6)

It adds up fast, but you are on the right track. Add to that new coolant, oil and filter for first 50 or so miles, etc. I ended up adding a lot of ARP bolts to my install, especially recommend the intake bolts as I seem to have had to pull mine multiple times for different reasons.

I also replaced the water pump and timing chain cover gaskets. Didn't want to have to pull the crank pulley again if there was a leak.