VandykeT/A

I'm building a 408 out of a 2008 block. My original LS1 cam retainer plate had normal 10mm bolts the 6.0 block had a black plate with countersunk torx bit bolts. Is one cam retainer plate better than the other. I've never heard of a failure or anything but I was just curious if I should prefer one over the other. Thanks

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

They both work fine, they redesigned the cam plate with the countersunk bolts for more clearance so the cam gear wouldn't clip a bolt...

racer8088

I sure like the old style better as the damn bolts never round out when trying to remove them like the later model plates with the counter sunk torx type bolts do!

studderin

iTrader: (28)

check the rubber gasket. use the one not old/harder/flat

Dylan Latshaw

I believe this us the problem I'm having on my heads and cam swap. Didn't replace the plate. What do I need to remove to get to it?

G Atsma

If you knew where it was you would not be asking this question. You remove everything needed to replace the cam, but stop once you remove the retainer plate.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I prefer the old style plate, which is only available aftermarket.

s30.hybrid

iTrader: (3)

Dylan Latshaw

wondering if I have to take off crank pulley

Dylan Latshaw

did a head and cam swap. Didn't replace the plate. There's a tapping noise and a tiny leak. Starts at 50psi and slowly drops to 30psi after warm (continues to fall) when i rev the engine tge needle vibrates byt barley any increase in pressure. No problems before the swap

G Atsma

Right.....

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

We have both and with the tapered plate we offer a different design bolt with hex hole instead of torx which is easier to work with, install, and possibly later remove. It is shorter also for some that have issues with their stroker assemblies/pistons hitting the stock length or longer bolts.

We normally send all tapered plates with the bolts. They are included in every complete rebuild kit and our gasket kits upon request.

Honestly i think its a good idea to include them with every cam kit, but too many like to balk at any extra expense to be honest, they likely wouldnt pay the extra $20....but will pay over $40 extra normally for a different cam core...which is odd but personal opinion and somewhat whom is doing the selling.

Dylan Latshaw

that's not an answer....?

G Atsma

Dylan, if you had an inkling of how an LS is put together, you would not be asking the questions you are asking. LOOK at the front of your engine. Do you even know where the cam is??? If so, imagine pulling off every part in the way of replacing it. To get to the cam, you pull the timing cover. To do that, pull the crank damper.
Do a little homework, read some books, actually LOOK at your engine instead of asking the ignorant questions you are asking.

Dylan Latshaw

lol you crack me up. People like you shouldn't be on this website. I know probably more then you do. I've done multiple rebuilds. By the way. This is were beginners go to when they want help learning how to fix the engines. Nobody reads books. Stop with the ignorant replies and grow up. Thanks.

G Atsma

I probably know as much as you do. BUT I was gullible to your stupid-*** questions, thinking you ARE actually that big a dumbass. I wasn't far off...
BTW, you should see my bookshelf. And I actually USE it. For reading, even. So knock off the superior attitude, *******.

Dylan Latshaw

Haha wow making a fool out of yourself. Thanks for the laugh. Have a good one. Enjoy your bookshelf.