Water in one of the piston holes
Water in one of the piston holes Well this project may have just come to a complete stop for a while, UNLESS there is a solution to this issue. After removing the last few bolts, I popped off the head and placed it on the cardboard laid out for it. When I turned back around to look at the pistons and inspect this is what I found..
After soaking up all the water, I wiped it all down dry, came back with a mist of WD-40 and noticed that the upper wall was rough from surface rust..
You can kinda make it out in this pic
Any suggestions and feedback would be great.. (short of removing the block to rebuild)
I mean considering it was holding the water, that's a little good meaning the rings are still tight, right? or am I just wishing to much..
Can this be resolved without pulling the block and rebuilding it all?
After soaking up all the water, I wiped it all down dry, came back with a mist of WD-40 and noticed that the upper wall was rough from surface rust..
You can kinda make it out in this pic
Any suggestions and feedback would be great.. (short of removing the block to rebuild)
I mean considering it was holding the water, that's a little good meaning the rings are still tight, right? or am I just wishing to much..
Can this be resolved without pulling the block and rebuilding it all?
Well that's the thing, the car was drivable and running up to a few months back when I started the repairs and mods on the car. So honestly I don't know. Tomorrow ill check the bottom side of the head to see what the valves and spark plug look like.
Now this is a very dumb question and im sure I know the answer to it, but if the piston is lowered some more, can a hone brush be used to smooth it out without having to remove the motor?
I still need to remove the other head and HOPEFULLY there is nothing wrong on that side..but if that side checks out and everything looks good.. is there a way to fix the issue without removing the motor? I mean if it has to come out and be rebuilt then it has to, but if it doesn't have to, rather not..
I still need to remove the other head and HOPEFULLY there is nothing wrong on that side..but if that side checks out and everything looks good.. is there a way to fix the issue without removing the motor? I mean if it has to come out and be rebuilt then it has to, but if it doesn't have to, rather not..
I had the same thought but without knowing exactly how much damage, I don't feel qualified to make the call.
The other side is probably OK if you haven't loosened/removed the bolts. I am guessing what happened was that you loosened most of the head bolts and coolant seeped out of the coolant passages into the cylinder. I removed the head on my 5.3 a month ago and got all kinds of coolant in the cylinder but was able to get it out quickly. Nothing like the corrosion you are seeing. It occurs to me that's been there for at least several days if not a month.
The other side is probably OK if you haven't loosened/removed the bolts. I am guessing what happened was that you loosened most of the head bolts and coolant seeped out of the coolant passages into the cylinder. I removed the head on my 5.3 a month ago and got all kinds of coolant in the cylinder but was able to get it out quickly. Nothing like the corrosion you are seeing. It occurs to me that's been there for at least several days if not a month.
Yea that has to have been there for some time.. I mean it was driving/ running early part of the year, but then taken apart I think back in march or feb. So its been a while, but considering it was all clear liquid not green coolant like the back piston got it def has been there for a while.. ill remove the other side tomorrow or when I can and then make the decision from there.. im sure removing it would be easier with both heads off, but im sure still has to be dropped from the bottom regardless right..
I've heard that if you get EVERYTHING off the motor you can snake it out the top in a pinch but the guys who know drop it out the bottom. Primary reason I was a 5.0 fan and not F-body, even though the obvious cube advantage.
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You say you know why the water was sitting in there correct? If not then thats the first thing that needs to be solved.
After I would take the other side off and see. Honestly IF it is just surface rust and theres no actual pitting of the wall I dont see a problem with using a scotchbrite pad or some steel wool with wd 40, cleaning it up and running it. Using a flex finishing hone could be done if abosolutley necesssary.
Before anyone jumps on me for this, it isnt technically the "Correct" way to do it however in the op's case if the rust hasnt pitted the wall a light flex hone or scothbrite pad wont hurt a thing. barely any material is removed with those things and if the op does it carefully he will just knock the surface rust off anyway
After I would take the other side off and see. Honestly IF it is just surface rust and theres no actual pitting of the wall I dont see a problem with using a scotchbrite pad or some steel wool with wd 40, cleaning it up and running it. Using a flex finishing hone could be done if abosolutley necesssary.
Before anyone jumps on me for this, it isnt technically the "Correct" way to do it however in the op's case if the rust hasnt pitted the wall a light flex hone or scothbrite pad wont hurt a thing. barely any material is removed with those things and if the op does it carefully he will just knock the surface rust off anyway
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At this point a hone and rings and maybe new over-sized pistons. With it being rough some material is going to have to come off and you want the piston to bore gap to be tight.
Yea I appreciate all the feedback and suggestions, I think at this point (after removing the other side) im going to have to find a way to move this car elsewhere to look at dropping the motor..
before I do all that though, I will for sure inspect everything a little more..
before I do all that though, I will for sure inspect everything a little more..
Called the machine shop that is literally 1/2 mile down the road from the house and $90 to pressure test and $90 to resurface to make sure they are smooth and straight..
So if im able to remove the other side tonight, going to take them to drop off tomorrow. no sense in waiting to find out what is wrong..then I can focus on the block
So if im able to remove the other side tonight, going to take them to drop off tomorrow. no sense in waiting to find out what is wrong..then I can focus on the block
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I'd like to enlighten you a bit. Windshield cowling leaks water onto top of the engine, water seeps past orings and gaskets and runs into any cylinder with a open intake valve.
Stop the water from leaking onto the engine!
Stop the water from leaking onto the engine!
Honing the top of the cylinder with the piston at the bottom of the bore would be a bad idea for several reasons. Same for using scotch brite or emery cloth, bad idea.
1. how would you get all the filings & debris out of the cylinder? yes I know you could wipe it but you would never get it all some would get down around the piston & rings.
2. with using a flex hone the top of bore would be different diameter than the bottom.
3. using scotch brite or emery cloth you bore would be out of round.
Just my thoughts. Don't half *** it. Do it right the first time in the long run you will be happier and it will cost you less.
Good luck.
1. how would you get all the filings & debris out of the cylinder? yes I know you could wipe it but you would never get it all some would get down around the piston & rings.
2. with using a flex hone the top of bore would be different diameter than the bottom.
3. using scotch brite or emery cloth you bore would be out of round.
Just my thoughts. Don't half *** it. Do it right the first time in the long run you will be happier and it will cost you less.
Good luck.
thanks everyone.. today im going to try and drop off the heads at the shop to have tested ...if everything is good, then I remove the motor and have it machined.. since I already have everything for the motor anyway(short of the pistons and crank) Ill see if the shop will rebuild the lower end only and ill build up the motor (if and when I take the motor out and take it..)
If you need heads, I've got a very clean set of 853 heads that were 12,000 mile takeoffs. I bought and wanted 862s and was sent 853s. $100+shipping if you want them. They are still in the shipping box ready to roll out.