MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

The heads/cam kit alone might be around $2000, but you'll need supporting mods as well or you'll leave a lot on the table. Unless I missed something, there's a lot you should consider:

Headers
Y Pipe
Catback
Stall (and probably gears)
Intake lid
Throttle Body
SSRA or Chris1313 intake setup would be a wise mod as well

Then there's the little things that add up very quickly.
Labor (assuming you're not doing it yourself)
A fuel pump wouldn't be a bad idea
Fuel Injectors
Tuning
Spark plugs/wires
o2 censor extensions, possibly new o2 censors

Even furthermore, there's bound to be some things that come up "while you're at it" that make sense to do while things are apart. Maybe a hose is leaking and needs replaced, maybe the serp belt is showing signs of wear, maybe you've got some extra gaskets that need replacing, or you decide to upgrade to ARP head bolts, etc. Also, to cut an 11.50 1/4 mile, you'll probably be shopping for some drag radial tires as well, and you'll technically need a driveshaft safety loop to be NHRA legal as well.

Then of course, there's suspension to consider as well. Shocks, springs, subframe connectors, lower control arms and brackets, and torque arms are all popular choices for the racer type.

comatoastWS6

Thanks for the reply... I know there is alot of money invested, and to get a fast car out of this tank.. But I will take it in pieces..

- Buy car, register car , insure car
- take care of maintenance / preventative maintenance fluids etc
- bolt ons - lid, trans cooler, headers, y pipe, suspension/chassis mods
- internal - converter, heads, cam, gaskets etc



the thing that confuses me is that there are so many options for every mod , its confusing.. Hell, even looking for a panhard bar, or LCAs, is overwhelming... Ive been reading up alot and trying to let it all soak in , but there is just a ton of info out there, and Im very green with this platform

comatoastWS6

Well after talking to Carl at Lancer, this is my plan of attack... The piston slap bugs me... It sounds louder than it should imo, and I want to have him look at, drive the car first, and maybe do some diagnostics..


If that all passes , Im going to do suspension and chassis mods, along with 3.73s, and more than likely a 3600 yank ss stall , trans cooler ( 28k btu from TSP I believe for $79.99 ) panhard, lowering springs, rear LCAs, relocation brackets etc etc, and then he will do a base tune, to open up the car a bit, delete some codes, etc etc, so its all ready to go for next spring..


I was actually surprised to hear how much of an improvement a good tune can make on a nearly stock car, with just a few support mods and gears.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

There are plenty of threads and info on suspension goodies on here. Skip the panhard bar altogether and get a watts link if you're serious about handling

These cars are no slouches stock by any means, and things like tuning and educated mods just make them even better

comatoastWS6

decisions decisions

comatoastWS6

well i do have a non adjustable BMR torque arm, SO Im guessing if I lower it ( more than likely BMR springs ) I will need a relocation bracket for that? plus a relocation bracket for the LCAs as well correct? I just thought a panhard was a good investment, especially on a lowered car..?? No?

comatoastWS6

On another note.. Got my lid installed this morning.. Only took an hour + travel time


I realize some are easy, some are a tight fit, and few are damn near impossible.. Mine was damn near impossible. and I was heating the **** out of it with a hair drier last night.. Went to menards this AM picked up a wagner heat gun, set it at 950* , massaged it in in less than a minute.. WHy I kept going last night is beyond me...


did I notice anything different? Not a thing lol... Oh well

Off to the next mission .. TSP LTs and ORY... Oh yea... and plugs/wires

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

IMO the best mod and the most fun has to be changing the gears. Makes it feel like a new car and doesn't cost too much.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

And polyurethane motor mounts lol

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

You will need to look at supporting mods as well.

Gaskets
timing chain
oil pump
injectors
Maybe a fuel pump
headers
exhaust
Stall converter
bigger transmission pan
transmission cooler
tuning
all the small stuff adds up quick.

comatoastWS6

I'm not sure if I asked this yet, but does frost have the option of buying another PCM instead of sending in mine?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't do fluids first. You have to change them all again when you start working on the car.

Suspension mods are not cheap.

You also have to look at the supporting valvetrain mods... oil pump, timing chain, lifters, pushrods...

And then there is the rearend. A new rearend is $2k+ and that's a barebones spool.

comatoastWS6

Thanks man. Yeah it'll be a lengthy process as I don't have alot of extra cash. And with Snowmobile season coming, black Friday and Christmas, I won't get to anything major til next March.

As for now I was looking at these sub frame connectors.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/93-02-umi-boxed-subframe-connectors-weld-in-/


Any suggestions on panhard bar and LCAs? I've decided to not lower it.. So wether that makes a difference or not..... Just with the terrible streets here and the hanging down of long tubes, I'm gonna need as much Clerance as I can get

comatoastWS6

Bueller.....

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

UMI Roto Joint stuff for LCAs and Panhard bar.

00FirebirdaREV

iTrader: (3)

Honestly LTs and exhaust are some fun mods that will help your future plans, not break the bank and give you a noticeable difference in power. Easy to install cheap to maintain and no tune is necessary right out of the gate. Get new motor mounts while your down there.

The next I would go with is supporting mods like fuel pump, trans cooler and suspension.

After the supporting mods I would put a stall, deeper trans

Save up some more money and then get your injectors, intake(if you decide to go with something other than your ls6), cam and valve train or heads and valve train. And last but not least TUNE which will need to be done after injector and cam.

I'm sure I'm missing a few things but IMO I would start low and make your way up all the while avoiding doing things twice like a tune.

Also you will need some stickier tires for the track and all that new found power.

00FirebirdaREV

iTrader: (3)

You may have already read this but if not, it's a good read and a helpful guide to new LS owners. Take your time with the car and enjoy the experience and knowledge you gain while modifying you vehicle and making it your own.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...anna-fast.html

comatoastWS6

Thanks man.. Yea, this year I think will be suspension parts, ( LCAs, panhard, subframe connectors, rear sway etc ) 3600 stall, and headers. Im going to wait on the rear end, gears, etc for a while. getting the suspension and chassis solid, then converter, cooler, headers, and poly mounts will be a good start.

Next spring will be a heads , cam and tune. The piston slap thing still bothers me a bit, so Im going to do everything around the motor first, and keep excess wear off the motor until I have it checked out