Long story, but engine (LM7) has been sat for a while, it's in a 1998 Range Rover, so there have been things to sort out!
I replaced the intake with a LS6 one, along with injectors.
Replaced the 700R4 with a 4L60E.
Installed a Holley oil pan.
It has been driven with the Holley oil pan, has clean oil in it, been sat for a few months (I work away from home).
While finishing up cleaning the wiring harness etc, decided to give her a crank as a morale booster.
No fuel pump relay, but turned it over on the starter and thought I head a small pinging/metallic noise. Had stereo cranking in the shop, so ignored it as my bad hearing playing tricks on me.
Plugged in the fuel pump relay, started it and there was a noise like the flexplate wallowing around!
Shut it off, pulled the fuel pump relay, cranked it. It stopped the starter motor!
Turned over by hand and it locks up in both directions, in the same spot, after turning for maybe 270 degrees. Thought we could hear a noise in the bellhousing area, so pulled the starter and 3 tc bolts. Same result. Then turned it over from underneath and the sound seems to be coming from the timing cover area. Could hear better from underneath at the front I guess. Sounds like the chain.
I rebuilt the engine when it went in there ( pistons, rings, new bearings all around, new stockish cam, new timing chain set), and has covered a few thousand trouble free miles before going back under the knife. Only thing changed is the intake and trans. I thought of hydrolocking on lots of fuel from the injectors, but it made a noise before we hooked fuel line up.
I pulled it out of the shop, as I need to do a motor this week and leave back out for work. Looks like the front cover will be coming off when I get home next, or valve covers and plugs first? Certainly a timing chain kind of noise...
I know noises over the internet are about impossible, but thoughts? It stops solid on the front pulley bolt when turning it by hand, and always in the same spot. The engine will not make a full revolution in either direction. All plugs are still in it right now.
As a side note the wiring does look a lot cleaner without the truck intake and after some soldering!


Martin

 

Not to say this is it but I had a clank on startup and pulled the front cover to find the timing chain broke. After getting a new timing set when I turned it over by hand it stopped close to the same place CW and CCW. Turned out the lifter roller pin backed out. wedged in the lifter bore, broke the roller off and locked the cam trashing that, two lifter bores, cam sensor, another lifter set, 9 valves and the chain. Metal all over. I'd start by pulling the front cover or checking the flex plate whichever is easier to do .

 

Flexplate "looks" Ok, as there seems to be no evidence of carnage back there. Front cover would be the easiest to remove, as there is no coolant in it right now. Radiator is 3 bolts and out, then just the water pump and alternator.
All in 100+ degree weather when my shop has a hard time staying under 90! Will see what tomorrow brings and see if I get time to pull the front cover or not.

Cheers
Martin

 

Sounds like one of the injectors leaked while it sat and hydrolocked that cylinder.

 

My first thought too, until my 17yr old said it was making a noise before the fuel line was hooked up....

Martin

 

Any chance something founds it's way in the engine when the intake was replaced?

 

I highly doubt it, but I wont say it's impossible.
The intakes got swapped in one deal, and the manifold was not left open, unattended, etc.
I had to leave out though, bills need paid unfortunately
Front cover will come off when I get home, and if it looks anything bad, will pull the whole thing out and see the damage. Easier to rebuild/repair with it on a stand vs in the Rover IMHO.

Martin

 

Have you tried spinning it with the belt off? Could be an accessory locking and motor is being hung up by the belt. Long shot but you have to take the belt off anyway! Also search the forums for "catastrophic oil pump failure" and you'll find a similar deal where a newly installed pump rather came apart..I think the prediction is improper shimming or something like that.

 

Yes, removed the belt after the starter motor to check that.
Will search that thread though, thanks!

Martin

 

After reading that thread last night, I pondered a while.
A while back my 17yr old installed a Holley oil pan, pickup tube, etc. for me. I told him the deal if he does it wrong, and he said not to worry etc. He is in auto tech at a local college 5 mornings a week, and has been an apprentice to me when I build the Rover engines etc in the shop.
The rig drove out of the shop (maybe 40ft) after the oil pan went on and oil was put in again, and it ran fine. Maybe sitting for a few months though, had an adverse effect if something wasn't installed correctly? Thinking pickup tube not seated all the way, o ring nicked, forced the tube into the oil pump, etc.
Make sense?
Cant get mad at him, although mother wants to skin him if that is the case! Lesson learned on my part.
Thoughts?

Martin

 

Subscribing.

 

Sadist.....

If the engine is trashed, it seems that (depending on the damage obviously) an ATK motor is hard to pass up. Compared to all the machine work, and new parts again, it may be pretty much cost effective too. My LS6 intake etc will bolt right on, and even the PCM tune wont be too awful far off for a while.
Looked at this, and may be sending PM's to ATK soon...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hp...make/chevrolet

Martin

 

It would take a of of damage to eat up over $3,500 (plus shipping) unless your block is trashed too.

 

That is a shipped price.
Like I said though, all depends on the internal damage. If the oil pump is indeed the culprit, it will be another full rebuild.....

Martin

 

Got home yesterday for a couple of days.
Pulled the Rover into the shop.
Thought all was well when I saw this.....


Then pulled the oil pan and windage tray....

Valves have not hit the piston, and both are currently closed as it happens on the cam timing.
Bad rod?
The rod is in 3 pieces the best I can tell, and the lower end is still attached to the crankshaft and spins freely by hand...

Thoughts? Besides I'm fecked that is...

Martin

 

That is an impressive oil pan inventory. Are you sure said 17 year old didn't help this damage occur last time it ran and left it there for you to find it? I don't see this happening without the engine actually firing, and you would have HEARD this happen if while the engine was running and definitely noticed it after. I've done this to my dad before and pushed it back into the garage. Luckily that was 20 years ago and he's almost thinking about forgiving me now. ;-)

Any damage to the block?

 

Like I said, heard a rattling noise and shut it down. After that it would not turn over by hand, and justifiably so I'd say!
At this point I would GUESS that the crank is OK as the bottom part of the rod is still on it. The bore certainly has a mark in it, but hard to determine the damage with the engine in place. Pulling the motor as we speak mate.
Will get it on the stand, pull the heads and have a looksie.
The 17 (now 18) year old is innocent of all blame by the look of it.
Martin

 

Engine out, heads off.
One head is pretty much trash, along with a bent valve from whacking the piston/rod/parts.
Crank has some decent gouging on the counterweight.
Cylinder is, as you can imagine, beat to ****.
So.....at least one head, crank, rods, maybe able to punch out the cylinder to 5.7l, along with all other bits and pieces (rods, mains, etc).
Thoughts?

Martin

 

Can you measure the deepest gouges in the cylinder? You can only bore a 5.3 from 3.78" to about 3.9" so that's 0.12 right? Divide by two and you get .06. I would think if any of the damage is deeper than that you might need a new block. Does my logic make sense?

 

Makes perfect sense, same as a 2" increase in tire diameter only nets you 1" more ground clearance!
Will run out now and see how it looks with the bore gauge etc.
Cheers
Martin