New motor making metal??
Hi all,
I've got a new rebuilt LS1, forged bottom end, all parts replaced except crank (std/std) and block. Comp cam (# 54-458-11), upgrade stock rockers, LS7 rollers. I ran the engine for 30 minutes, then changed the oil and filter. Filter was clear, oil looked new. Next oil / filter change was after about 400 miles of easy use. I cut open the filter and washed the element. Is this a normal amount of metal? It is all magnetic. Oil pressure is now stabilized at 42-44 hot at idle, 60psi at 3000, 70+psi at above 4000rpm.
Should I worry???
Thanks,
Gord.
I've got a new rebuilt LS1, forged bottom end, all parts replaced except crank (std/std) and block. Comp cam (# 54-458-11), upgrade stock rockers, LS7 rollers. I ran the engine for 30 minutes, then changed the oil and filter. Filter was clear, oil looked new. Next oil / filter change was after about 400 miles of easy use. I cut open the filter and washed the element. Is this a normal amount of metal? It is all magnetic. Oil pressure is now stabilized at 42-44 hot at idle, 60psi at 3000, 70+psi at above 4000rpm.
Should I worry???
Thanks,
Gord.
Hi all,
I've got a new rebuilt LS1, forged bottom end, all parts replaced except crank (std/std) and block. Comp cam (# 54-458-11), upgrade stock rockers, LS7 rollers. I ran the engine for 30 minutes, then changed the oil and filter. Filter was clear, oil looked new. Next oil / filter change was after about 400 miles of easy use. I cut open the filter and washed the element. Is this a normal amount of metal? It is all magnetic. Oil pressure is now stabilized at 42-44 hot at idle, 60psi at 3000, 70+psi at above 4000rpm.
Should I worry???
Thanks,
Gord.
I've got a new rebuilt LS1, forged bottom end, all parts replaced except crank (std/std) and block. Comp cam (# 54-458-11), upgrade stock rockers, LS7 rollers. I ran the engine for 30 minutes, then changed the oil and filter. Filter was clear, oil looked new. Next oil / filter change was after about 400 miles of easy use. I cut open the filter and washed the element. Is this a normal amount of metal? It is all magnetic. Oil pressure is now stabilized at 42-44 hot at idle, 60psi at 3000, 70+psi at above 4000rpm.
Should I worry???
Thanks,
Gord.
Last edited by squalor; Sep 1, 2014 at 11:18 AM.
passenger valve cover is off, everything is clean as a whistle. Rocker bearings are fine. The drivers side valve cover is a PITA! to get off, requiring removal of the BMW Hydroboost brake system (engine is in a 944). Do they general fail in quantity, or just one or two in an engine.
There was a thread last week with a Trunnion fail, I guessed wrong. Wish I was right, would have been easy to go back to stock. Now you still need to find the source. Isn't bearing material non-magnetic ?
944 LSx, kewl ! I have a FD. Nice to meet you Gord.
944 LSx, kewl ! I have a FD. Nice to meet you Gord.
Trending Topics
Preload? Main/rod bearing clearance? Crankshaft thrust? Springs? Need all the info. I have one giant request... When you figure it out, you better post up what the problem was. I ****** hate when people ask for help and then you hear nothing.
Need all the info.
Piston to wall is 0.003 - 0.004 (on the loose side, but quite when warm)
Crank main bearings - 0.0016 - 0.0020
Crank rod bearings - 0.0012 - 0.0018
rod end play - 0.020
Crank end play - 0.005
Engine built my me, I don't pay my mortgage building engines, but have built dozens of race and street engines oner 25 years with great results. Engine was built in a clean room environment, NO dirt! All parts cleaned (even if new!) before assembly.
Comments??
YES, I'll let everyone know what I find. I appreciate the forum, and will contribute.
Gord.
Last edited by GordMurray; Sep 1, 2014 at 08:19 PM.
NORMAL.........stop worrying. Its Engine Shedding.....
New engines should have an oil change.....
After its first 5-6 dyno pulls for its tune. ((I hope you didn't let it idle for 30 minutes BEFORE you dyno tuned it, that's a lot of engine time to let it run without doing a few wide open throttle runs on a dyno.)).
Then after 100 miles
250 miles
500 miles
1000 miles
1500 miles
2500 miles
3000 miles
Then every 3000................
Those metal shavings are perfectly normal.
Get an oil filter magnet and use it for the first 10,000 miles. (ebay sells them)
My 427ci stroker engine shaved metal like that for about 5,000 miles, then progressively lessened until it died at 173,000 miles. But I saw metal shavings on the oil drain plug magnet at every single oil change for 10+ years....
My new 390ci has had 3 oil changes......it had metal just like you show in your picture. Now they are getting more powderized on the plug magnet.....
You need to worry when you get actual pieces and/or chunks.....if its just like powder its normal....especially for a new engine.
.
New engines should have an oil change.....
After its first 5-6 dyno pulls for its tune. ((I hope you didn't let it idle for 30 minutes BEFORE you dyno tuned it, that's a lot of engine time to let it run without doing a few wide open throttle runs on a dyno.)).
Then after 100 miles
250 miles
500 miles
1000 miles
1500 miles
2500 miles
3000 miles
Then every 3000................
Those metal shavings are perfectly normal.
Get an oil filter magnet and use it for the first 10,000 miles. (ebay sells them)
My 427ci stroker engine shaved metal like that for about 5,000 miles, then progressively lessened until it died at 173,000 miles. But I saw metal shavings on the oil drain plug magnet at every single oil change for 10+ years....
My new 390ci has had 3 oil changes......it had metal just like you show in your picture. Now they are getting more powderized on the plug magnet.....
You need to worry when you get actual pieces and/or chunks.....if its just like powder its normal....especially for a new engine.
.
I just cut the filter open on my 5.3 Turbo setup.
Third oil change since I fired it in may. I didn't look after the first two changes. I just got the filter cutter from Summit. Nice tool btw!
My engine is not new. But I disassembled and thoroughly cleaned everything. Cam, valve train etc are new.
There was fuzz on the magnetic drain bolt. Nothing in the bottom of the oil filter can. But there was stuff in the filter element.
I looked at it with a microscope. Nothing alarming.
I figure it's stuff from the springs and retainers etc.
Maybe just drive it some more and check again from time to time. Oil filters are cheap.
Ron
Third oil change since I fired it in may. I didn't look after the first two changes. I just got the filter cutter from Summit. Nice tool btw!
My engine is not new. But I disassembled and thoroughly cleaned everything. Cam, valve train etc are new.
There was fuzz on the magnetic drain bolt. Nothing in the bottom of the oil filter can. But there was stuff in the filter element.
I looked at it with a microscope. Nothing alarming.
I figure it's stuff from the springs and retainers etc.
Maybe just drive it some more and check again from time to time. Oil filters are cheap.
Ron
Well, I buzzed her to 7000 a few times today, so I'm going with the "normal" explanation. Holy crap, it pulls hard in the light car!! WRT tune, It started off with a "tuned by Frost" tune based on my configuration.
Thanks all, I'll run her hard and report on my next filter examination in a couple of weeks.
Gord.
Thanks all, I'll run her hard and report on my next filter examination in a couple of weeks.
Gord.









