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Old May 23, 2004 | 10:19 AM
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I finaly got my cam in my SS. its a comp 224/224 .581/.581 with Cartek Grottyhan style headers, Cartek Y, and a LS6 mannifold. They also installed hardend pushrods, manley dual valve springs, Z06 oil pump, rollmaster, and thats it. Through a paperfilter and no cutout on a SLP Dual/Dual it made 385 rwhp and 363 rwtq. Im still working it in try to get the computer to learn it. Ive put about 250 miles on it and it still tries to stall after you start on a slow roll and reingage the clutch, only does it once and goes right back to 900 rpm. The only thing is that i tought that the 224 was not that lopy. Not that i mind, its just alot lopier than i thought it was gonna be. Also, im wondering if i fouled out my plugs already cuz the idle is getting rougher by the day. My brother somehow convinced me to put in Denso irridium plugs cuz they are suposed to the best on the market. Anyone here ever used them? Any way, does this stuff all sound normal? Are the numbers good? And finaly, how much will i pick up from a K&N and a magnaflow?
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Old May 23, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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Didi they tune it yet or not? 385 is in the ballpark, but the torque looks a little down. The cam is 112 LSA right? A buddy of mine has a 2002 SS with a Comp 224 and TPiS long tubes. He put down 394hp and 380tq.

Personally, I would use NGK TR55s (G-Power). It's what I have and they have been working great.

My 224 has it's moments too. Sometimes it idles fine, sometimes it is a bit fussy. I have an auto so my LSA is 114.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 11:55 AM
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385? 394?

i dunno if i wanna go through with this cam after all.
isnt that what the hotcam puts down?
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Old May 23, 2004 | 01:20 PM
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dont dwell on the dyno #s thats all they are, everycar will dyno differently so on that statement its the track results that count .................. 224 has been a proven performer time and time again.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 02:20 PM
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yeah they tuned it and said that the computer still has to learn the cam. i would firgure that 250 miles is enough. I dont mind the lopyness at all. i like it. Just when you hear this is a mild cam and the dash is shakin like a thrid gen (not bashing i have one as well ) you start to worry. I actually gotta go pick up my filter from them and ill bring the car and show them what it is doing. They actually want to know what the car is doing in a week or so to make sure everything is ok. I think i may ask them to do the plugs really quick too. I dont have much experience with this cam so im not sure that what it is doing is normal.

Last edited by PG45; May 23, 2004 at 11:40 PM.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 02:38 PM
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how do i post a dyno sheet to so you guys can tell me what you think?

Last edited by PG45; May 23, 2004 at 11:37 PM.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 06:14 PM
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PM sent.
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Old May 23, 2004 | 11:43 PM
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i noticed another thing. At 2100 rpm, the car gets a weird vibration. The pedel shakes, the shifter shakes, everything. I figure it is just the exhaust resignating cuz it clears right up. I really am trying to not be a pain . Just tryin to learn
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Old May 24, 2004 | 12:03 AM
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2001 vette

SAE corrected:
385.70 HP
390.12 TQ

-comp 224/224 .581 .581 112 XE-R
-LG long tubes
-Y/T roller rockers
-3' exhaust
-LS6 intake
-ASP pully(alt. & crank)
-160* therm.
-comp adj. timing chain for degreeing cam in
-full dyno tune

All work done in Houston at Speed Demon Motorsports.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 12:10 AM
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Don't know about the shakes, but here's the graph:

PG45_dyno.jpg

Those are good numbers with a stock intake, TB, & pully. If you compare before and after tuning numbers depending on the airflow you probably gained a good bit. However I'm skeptical of how much of that tune is stable. After a tune I'm pretty sure the changes are immediate.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 12:15 AM
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Now what could possibly make me lose 20-30 rwtq? The only thing i can think of is that the headers are 1 3/4. Could a pulley do it i figure a pulley and an aftermarker set of roller rockers would help up high? Could it be that it was dynoed with 3.42's? Higher (smaller) gear, more torque? Not that dyno numbers are what counts, its track times. Hell if i can run high 11's on 200 rwhp, i be happy. Just curious, maybe less tq would be an advantage...less
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Old May 24, 2004 | 01:09 AM
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Is it just me or does his curve look ragged??? Not knocking... I'm just learning about this stuff myself and it looks kinda funny is all, not a smooth line
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Old May 24, 2004 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Rice Eater 316
Is it just me or does his curve look ragged??? Not knocking... I'm just learning about this stuff myself and it looks kinda funny is all, not a smooth line
It is ragged cuz they were having a problem with the dyno, thats why it is not smooth. See im kinda worried how can you tell if a car wasnt tuned. i paid for a tune.....the car doesnt stumble on start up. How could it not be tuned in tq is low but hp is not? Could it be the paper filter? I have a lid and should be gettin the filter in soon. I just wanna make sure i got a ligitamate problem before i tell them what it is doing. (This is the exact reason i didnt do it myself....I didnt want to deal with all these maybe's )
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Old May 24, 2004 | 09:45 AM
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I like my 224/224, .581"/.581" 114 LSA cam. I will need a LSX intake, heads, and a throttle body before I will see real power gains. I put down right around 365 rwhp and 420 rwtq (unlocked). I have idle issues only after my car has been running a while and I cut it off and cut it back on while it is still hot. It want's to surge a little. If I wait about 5-10 seconds it levels out. I love the lope of the cam.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 12:26 PM
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On any of you guys car with a 224, i the lope so hard that shakes the dash?
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Old May 24, 2004 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PG45
i noticed another thing. At 2100 rpm, the car gets a weird vibration. The pedel shakes, the shifter shakes, everything. I figure it is just the exhaust resignating cuz it clears right up. I really am trying to not be a pain . Just tryin to learn
I had the exact same vibration/shake from about 2200-3000 rpm that I originally wrote off as an exhaust vibration because I just installed the Jet Hot Long Tubes and ORY. We put the car on the dyno and it did 310rwhp!!! Everyone stood around with a big WHAT THE HELL?!?!?! look on their face. We were expecting at least 330-340rwhp before any kind of tune.

FORTUNATELY the shop owner has a ton of experience with LS1's and said "..damn this thing is running on 7 cylinders." We replaced the valve springs and pushrods to be sure it wasn't a valve train issue. To make a long story it had a dead/dying fuel injector. The car did not throw any kind of codes relating to the fuel injectors. We put brand new stock fuel injectors in, with the new tuned PCM, and it put down 360rwhp.

Since you have new springs and pushrods, I would look at the fuel injectors first. Good Luck.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 01:35 PM
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My TR224 is set via LS1 Edit to idle at 875rpms which produces a very smooth linear lope that sounds more like a 114LSA than the 112LSA it's ground on. My idle is very smooth at that idle rpm, the shifter has a little shake to it but that's about it. The dash, console etc is mouse quiet and doesn't move. I finished up my head install on friday and it even seems to idle smoother now than with the stock heads. Feels like a good 20-30rwhp gain untuned even. I will be making an appointment with Mikey soon to have another tune done.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 01:50 PM
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Im running a TR224 563.563 on a 114, DIS is set to 800rpm and I have a nice idle for an A4 - not too much lope. Made 390/390 through a loose verter unlocked, this was with Absolute 1x heads.

New numbers coming up with LSX FAST intake and TB (78mm)
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Old May 24, 2004 | 04:03 PM
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See this stuff pisses me off. I spend a ton of money to make sure it is done right by professionals and im stuck with a car that runs like crap and the shop says it is fine! I took a 9000 mile car that ran perfect and now its f*cked up. Well what do i do? I should have done the damn thing myself.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by PG45
Well what do i do? I should have done the damn thing myself.
First thing would be to make sure all the coil packs are plugged in correctly. Then make sure the fuel injector plugs are correct. Make sure all the plug wires are making a good connection. If you find nothing wrong with the simple connections, pull the plugs one by one and see if one of them is fouled or unusually burnt. If you don't feel like screwing with it at all, just take it back to whoever did the install for you and express your concern.
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