Using the starter to prime rebuild
Using the starter to prime rebuild Ive just installed a fresh 5.7 in my silverado. Fresh hone, New rings and bearings. It has a new barbell and a brand new oil pump also. I made sure to use the right o ring and made sure not to pinch it when i mounted the pickup. Oil pan pick up to pan clearance was within spec. With out the plugs installed, the coils unplugged and the fuel pump relay pulled, i crank the engine over with the starter for 10 seconds or so at a time, but i see no oil pressure on the stock gauge.
How long should it take to get pressure on the gauge? When i crank by hand, i can hear the oil sloshing around in the pan.
How long should it take to get pressure on the gauge? When i crank by hand, i can hear the oil sloshing around in the pan.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Wilmington, De
Did you put some assembly lube/oil in the pump? The pump gears need to have some lube/oil worked into them to create the necessary suction to push the oil through the motor. Simply filling the oil filter doesn't always work.
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I just cranked it for 20 seconds or so until I had pressure and then I cranked it again to make sure oil got distributed. I think cranking it until it gets pressure doesn't put anything more on it than 2 or three shorter cranks and may even make it prime quicker. I had poured oil into the filter before installing, filled the oil sender hole to help fill the galleys and had poured assembly lube into the oil pump and turned it by hand before installing too.
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Verdad Gallardo I used clevite's bearing guard on everything including the pump, but i did not pack the pumps passages with anything. I tried filling the filter today, but not one pound of pressure showed up.
Looks like ill have to buy a home made priming tool. Battery's almost dead.
Looks like ill have to buy a home made priming tool. Battery's almost dead.
I think as you turn the key to crank the engine, the gauges are dead. While cranking in the car with the key, the gauge won't read.
20 or 30 seconds "crank" time. No spark plugs:
20 or 30 seconds "crank" time. No spark plugs:
I think as you turn the key to crank the engine, the gauges are dead. While cranking in the car with the key, the gauge won't read.
20 or 30 seconds "crank" time. No spark plugs:
Crank pressure test - YouTube
20 or 30 seconds "crank" time. No spark plugs:
Crank pressure test - YouTube
I just bought one of these drill powered pumps, so I'll try that if all else fails.
I used my starter to prime the engine. It worked fine. If you used assembly lube on everything, you'll be fine.
Plus, whenever I play with idle airfow too much and take it out where it refuses to start I can watch pressure build as it turns over.
Plus, whenever I play with idle airfow too much and take it out where it refuses to start I can watch pressure build as it turns over.
BTW folks, as the LS pump isn't immersed in the oil sump as old school engines were, it does take a bit more time to get oil flowing when dry or it's been sitting for a while.
I monitored oil pressure with HP Tuners and it showed good pressure within 20 seconds or so cranking it. I'd be worried about something being wrong just "firing it up". For one with the plugs in you're putting a lot more stress on the bearings and if something is wrong like the pickup tube O-ring it would be doubly bad.
In my Monte Carlo, in addition to the usual oil pressure gauge, I had a oil pressure switch (that would be used for a car with idiot lights) that would close a relay that powered my ignition. The ignition wouldn't work until oil pressure was built up. At the same time, if the oil pressure went away, the ignition would be killed saving the engine from damage.
When I re-build the Monte, I'll do the same but the relay will interrupt the fuel injectors instead of the ignition.
I don't agree with this practice, especially if you use the wrong type of grease. I always use an assembly lube, like Clevite's Bearing Guard, or even Amsoil's assembly lube, but only to lubricate the gears or other friction points. I have seen horror stories when that white lithium grease is used.
Well after charging my battery back to life, the engine wont fire.
I had a 150,000 mile stock 4.8. Pulled the 4.8 longblock, and replaced it with a 5.7 longblock, with 243 heads and a custom cam/spring kit. Everything else like intake inj tb maf exhaust is all reused from the 4.8.
The tuners ive spoken to say it should fire right up and even run decent, but its not....
Guess ill check for spark (damn this is gonna hurt), and buy yet another one time use item, like a fuel pressure gauge and some fittings. Unless anyone knows an easier way to verify fuel pressure.
I had a 150,000 mile stock 4.8. Pulled the 4.8 longblock, and replaced it with a 5.7 longblock, with 243 heads and a custom cam/spring kit. Everything else like intake inj tb maf exhaust is all reused from the 4.8.
The tuners ive spoken to say it should fire right up and even run decent, but its not....
Guess ill check for spark (damn this is gonna hurt), and buy yet another one time use item, like a fuel pressure gauge and some fittings. Unless anyone knows an easier way to verify fuel pressure.