Need advice on a cam for a LQ9/317/A4
Need advice on a cam for a LQ9/317/A4 I'm picking up a LQ9 for my 01 WS6. I want to put a sloppy nasty cam in it, before I drop it in.
I tried the research all this, but it only confused the hell out of me. I want something that sounds like a nasty loping beast, but still makes street power.
I am running a 4l60 with a factory TQ converter and the LQ9 is right out of the truck with 317 heads; the rear has 4.11s in a MWC FAB9 housing.
Someone mentioned that I would want something with an LSA of 108 or so, to get a nasty sloppy lope.
Sorry for the ignorance, thanks for the help!
I tried the research all this, but it only confused the hell out of me. I want something that sounds like a nasty loping beast, but still makes street power.
I am running a 4l60 with a factory TQ converter and the LQ9 is right out of the truck with 317 heads; the rear has 4.11s in a MWC FAB9 housing.
Someone mentioned that I would want something with an LSA of 108 or so, to get a nasty sloppy lope.
Sorry for the ignorance, thanks for the help!
big cam + stock converter = slow turd that sucks to drive on the street
What you are talking about doing will be slower than a bolt on LS1 car. Speaking of, what is wrong with the ls1 that you are changing it? Are you sure it's an lq9 not an lq4?
What you are talking about doing will be slower than a bolt on LS1 car. Speaking of, what is wrong with the ls1 that you are changing it? Are you sure it's an lq9 not an lq4?
I'm not doing anything to the TC since I want to go the way of the 4l80 or maybe a T56, but just don't have the money for all that now.
It's doesn't need to be a huge cam, I just want something that will give me some good power on the streets with the stock TC and a dirty sloppy chop
Yes it's a LQ9, I don't want a LQ4. The LS1 is long gone. I have a LQ9 in there now, that mysteriously locked up for some reason.
It's doesn't need to be a huge cam, I just want something that will give me some good power on the streets with the stock TC and a dirty sloppy chop
Yes it's a LQ9, I don't want a LQ4. The LS1 is long gone. I have a LQ9 in there now, that mysteriously locked up for some reason.
So all these guys doing a cam swap, are also pulling their trans!? So to do a cam swap it's going
to cost at least $1000!!??
Might as well wait to get a T56 setup then, I guess.
to cost at least $1000!!??
Might as well wait to get a T56 setup then, I guess.
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At minimum I would plan on:
~$445 cam (I recommend EPS or Cam Motion, rather than cams ground by Comp)
$70-100 hardened pushrods (can get used or new)
~$230 valvesprings (price is for Brian Tooley Racing springs, about the best bang for buck for a mid-large cam)
must be tuned $150-500 depending on mail order or dyno and who does it
oil change
water pump gaskets
crank pulley bolt (MUST BE REPLACED)
coolant
Also recommended:
~$40 ls2 timing chain
~$90+ ported oil pump
The only options I would recommend that don't need a converter and could reduce costs of the parts above would be the "drop in" cam lines from Cam Motion or Brian Tooley (other companies could also do small grinds but I know these companies market them). They can use $50 ls6 valve springs and work well with stock torque converters but aren't going to have crazy lope (tune has a big effect on lope effect). Tuning for those small cams will be easier but still required.
~$445 cam (I recommend EPS or Cam Motion, rather than cams ground by Comp)
$70-100 hardened pushrods (can get used or new)
~$230 valvesprings (price is for Brian Tooley Racing springs, about the best bang for buck for a mid-large cam)
must be tuned $150-500 depending on mail order or dyno and who does it
oil change
water pump gaskets
crank pulley bolt (MUST BE REPLACED)
coolant
Also recommended:
~$40 ls2 timing chain
~$90+ ported oil pump
The only options I would recommend that don't need a converter and could reduce costs of the parts above would be the "drop in" cam lines from Cam Motion or Brian Tooley (other companies could also do small grinds but I know these companies market them). They can use $50 ls6 valve springs and work well with stock torque converters but aren't going to have crazy lope (tune has a big effect on lope effect). Tuning for those small cams will be easier but still required.
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A cam swap usually does cost in the neighborhood of $1000 or more when you factor in swapping pushrods, valve springs and cost of a tune. Aka... doing a cam swap correctly. The lope from a cam is not ALL in the tune, nor the LSA. How a cam sounds/lopes comes from how much overlap the cam has. A smaller duration cam with 220s/230s duration can sound identical as a 240s/250s duration cam, as long as the amount of overlap is the same. As previously said, a big duration cam with a stock stall will suck ***** in performance and drivability. If you plan on swapping to a T56 in the near future, depending on your budget, you might be better off waiting until then to do the cam.
you can get a cam that will work with the stock stall but it will have negative overlap and probably still be slower then a bolt-on stall setup. It will not have a heavy chop to it because overlap is what it takes to create chop. I would think you need a cam with at least 2 degrees overlap to get some chop to it.
Imo Your best investment at this point is a 700.00 billet converter. Also there is no need to ditch the 4L60 until you get past 800whp. It is a very capable trans in the right hands. I am running a FTI 3800 in a slightly modified 4L60 right now. No issues for 2500 miles so far. Shift kit, cooler, and tuned correctly, even the stock 60e can handle some powah.
Imo Your best investment at this point is a 700.00 billet converter. Also there is no need to ditch the 4L60 until you get past 800whp. It is a very capable trans in the right hands. I am running a FTI 3800 in a slightly modified 4L60 right now. No issues for 2500 miles so far. Shift kit, cooler, and tuned correctly, even the stock 60e can handle some powah.
A cam swap usually does cost in the neighborhood of $1000 or more when you factor in swapping pushrods, valve springs and cost of a tune. Aka... doing a cam swap correctly. The lope from a cam is not all in the tune, nor the LSA. How a cam sounds/lopes comes from how much overlap the cam has. A smaller duration cam with 220s/230s duration can sound identical as a 240s/250s duration cam, as long as the amount of overlap is the same. As previously said, a big duration cam with a stock stall will suck ***** in performance and drivability. If you plan on swapping to a T56 in the near future, depending on your budget, you might be better off waiting until then to do the cam.
At minimum I would plan on:
~$445 cam (I recommend EPS or Cam Motion, rather than cams ground by Comp)
$70-100 hardened pushrods (can get used or new)
~$230 valvesprings (price is for Brian Tooley Racing springs, about the best bang for buck for a mid-large cam)
must be tuned $150-500 depending on mail order or dyno and who does it
oil change
water pump gaskets
crank pulley bolt (MUST BE REPLACED)
coolant
~$445 cam (I recommend EPS or Cam Motion, rather than cams ground by Comp)
$70-100 hardened pushrods (can get used or new)
~$230 valvesprings (price is for Brian Tooley Racing springs, about the best bang for buck for a mid-large cam)
must be tuned $150-500 depending on mail order or dyno and who does it
oil change
water pump gaskets
crank pulley bolt (MUST BE REPLACED)
coolant
My truck has a 205/210 drop in cam from Cam Motion. On a normal tune it idles exactly like stock. On a tune with adjustments to idle under/over speed timing tables it sounds choppier but nothing extreme:
Several other sponsors are also very helpful and informative and have excellent cam designs. Notably Tick and Texas Speed.
I have spoken with a local Comp rep who will be taking in the few ruined cams I have in my shop for testing and the results of that could change my perception and willingness to recommend them again. Lots of people have good luck with them, but I have not and it has been costly and time consuming.
Everyone was like, put a cam in it before you drop it in... but obviously it's not that cut and dry. Yeah I guess I'll wait to see what I am going to do with the trans setup then.
Then reason I was thinking of going with the 4L80 was for this
http://www.powertraincontrolsolution...ed-Valve-Body/
.
Then reason I was thinking of going with the 4L80 was for this
http://www.powertraincontrolsolution...ed-Valve-Body/
.
I know some Chevelle guys use Bullet cams with great success. Wasn't familiar with whether they do or do not do ls cams or if they are site sponsors here like EPS and CM. Both Geoff and Kip have been very helpful to me so I support them as much as I can.
Several other sponsors are also very helpful and informative and have excellent cam designs. Notably Tick and Texas Speed.
I have spoken with a local Comp rep who will be taking in the few ruined cams I have in my shop for testing and the results of that could change my perception and willingness to recommend them again. Lots of people have good luck with them, but I have not and it has been costly and time consuming.
Several other sponsors are also very helpful and informative and have excellent cam designs. Notably Tick and Texas Speed.
I have spoken with a local Comp rep who will be taking in the few ruined cams I have in my shop for testing and the results of that could change my perception and willingness to recommend them again. Lots of people have good luck with them, but I have not and it has been costly and time consuming.
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From: Marengo, Ia
Then reason I was thinking of going with the 4L80 was for this
http://www.powertraincontrolsolution...ed-Valve-Body/.
http://www.powertraincontrolsolution...ed-Valve-Body/.