looking at first ls turbo build
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looking at first ls turbo build I'm looking at doing my first ls turbo build been looking into 5.3 iron block good heads nice cam head stud's rod studs good gaskets
I guess my question is
Which is the best budget heads
Which is the best budget intake
Which the best budget throttle body
Is it better to build my turbo set up off my factory manifolds or buying a eBay style set up for now then upgrading later.
It will most likely be tuned on E85
Will retain stock fuel tank so best fuel system for the buck
I want to be good for 700 ish plus hp I know it can be done.
I have seen it done and I am ready to do this build soon so I'd love any info possible thanks in advance
I guess my question is
Which is the best budget heads
Which is the best budget intake
Which the best budget throttle body
Is it better to build my turbo set up off my factory manifolds or buying a eBay style set up for now then upgrading later.
It will most likely be tuned on E85
Will retain stock fuel tank so best fuel system for the buck
I want to be good for 700 ish plus hp I know it can be done.
I have seen it done and I am ready to do this build soon so I'd love any info possible thanks in advance
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: PA/MD
What vehicle are you putting this setup in? How much clearance do you have from the top of your valley pan to the bottom of your hood?
I run and recommend the Edelbrock pro flo xt. Only down side to it is it is tall so you need around 11" s of hood clearance.
90 mm FAST throttle body
stock manifolds will work fine for you for now
bigger injectors (call a pro or use a good call at or for injector sizing)
for the price a good set of ported 5.3 or 241 heads will get the job done for you, or if the money will allow a set of ported 241 heads.
You can run a new larger fuel line and use your old supply line for a return (this is how I've done them in the past)
you will need a 3 bar or higher map depending on your planed psi.
also don't forget about the price of a good tune!
I run and recommend the Edelbrock pro flo xt. Only down side to it is it is tall so you need around 11" s of hood clearance.
90 mm FAST throttle body
stock manifolds will work fine for you for now
bigger injectors (call a pro or use a good call at or for injector sizing)
for the price a good set of ported 5.3 or 241 heads will get the job done for you, or if the money will allow a set of ported 241 heads.
You can run a new larger fuel line and use your old supply line for a return (this is how I've done them in the past)
you will need a 3 bar or higher map depending on your planed psi.
also don't forget about the price of a good tune!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2014
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2004 S10 blazer. I don't particular care of hood clearance I can get big cowl or make something as I do body work for living lol.
I have a great tuner/dyno guy that tunes a big part of cars in central Ohio named Dyno Tune Motorsports or DTM. That's who will tune when its done.
I'm looking at sumping the factory tank and what not. Should I use a big in tank pump or A1000 on side of it?
I have a great tuner/dyno guy that tunes a big part of cars in central Ohio named Dyno Tune Motorsports or DTM. That's who will tune when its done.
I'm looking at sumping the factory tank and what not. Should I use a big in tank pump or A1000 on side of it?
Someone asked something similar not too long ago...this was the overview:
-Keep OEM heads and add some springs and cam. I went with BTR for my springs so they get my vote but there are COMP springs as well out there. As for the cam, talk to LiL John or Martin at Tick or Stock48 (isky cam) and see what they can tell ya for your exact setup.
-Get Alper/Ebay headstuds (under $100 and have done great)
-If you go aftermarket rod bolts....it is suggested (many have been ok without this) that you have a machine shop perform the re-honing.
-Stick with OEM throttle body unless you are hell bent on getting aftermarket. Plenty of 700-ish HP setups with stock TBs.
-I stuck with stock truck manis and welded the hot side to it. Was cheap to do and relatively simple. There is a sticky at the top of this section which discusses what you need and how to make the manis work.
-Walbro has a the 450 LPH approved pumps. 2 of those should be plenty and they are rather cheap. I have always loved the Bosch 044's and twin in-tank can take you there for sure.
-If i am not mistaken Deka 80lb injector can take you to your goal. $365 at VS Racing.
I would say check out Denmahs builds. He has taken many stock and mostly stock 5.3's into that power range. To boot, the guy is super helpful and nice. He even made a Wiki https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...unkyardturbols
-
-Keep OEM heads and add some springs and cam. I went with BTR for my springs so they get my vote but there are COMP springs as well out there. As for the cam, talk to LiL John or Martin at Tick or Stock48 (isky cam) and see what they can tell ya for your exact setup.
-Get Alper/Ebay headstuds (under $100 and have done great)
-If you go aftermarket rod bolts....it is suggested (many have been ok without this) that you have a machine shop perform the re-honing.
-Stick with OEM throttle body unless you are hell bent on getting aftermarket. Plenty of 700-ish HP setups with stock TBs.
-I stuck with stock truck manis and welded the hot side to it. Was cheap to do and relatively simple. There is a sticky at the top of this section which discusses what you need and how to make the manis work.
-Walbro has a the 450 LPH approved pumps. 2 of those should be plenty and they are rather cheap. I have always loved the Bosch 044's and twin in-tank can take you there for sure.
-If i am not mistaken Deka 80lb injector can take you to your goal. $365 at VS Racing.
I would say check out Denmahs builds. He has taken many stock and mostly stock 5.3's into that power range. To boot, the guy is super helpful and nice. He even made a Wiki https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...unkyardturbols
-
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Joined: Oct 2014
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Awesome I appreciate it.
I have been told iron block good head studs/gaskets rod bolts then ls1 heads with good springs ls1 or higher intake/tb and manifolds with the hot side like you said...
Thank you again
I have been told iron block good head studs/gaskets rod bolts then ls1 heads with good springs ls1 or higher intake/tb and manifolds with the hot side like you said...
Thank you again
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