budget mods!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 21
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From: Oregon
budget mods! Okay so I have a bud who is going to get 98-02 Z28m6 or SSm6, and he wants to get more power out of it but is getting worked up about the cramped engine bay, for $1000-$1500. I told him to man up and get Lt's a ory, and 4.10s. And then a tune. Is that a good amount of mods and he'd make like 350ish whp right?and somewhat cheap? We can do the manual labor on the exhaust install and the gears probably as well. All advice is acceptable! 
TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,893
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From: Mississippi
Port the factory throttle body at home. Great free mod that's worth 10 hp or so. Now let's move to money. I might be off a couple dollars but I won't be off that much. Here we go... This is what I would do with 1500 in my hand. Some mods I say might sound worthless/useless but to me they not.
150- mail order tune from frost
230- headers by pacesetters
140- ebay y-pipe
93- hooker muffler
100- SLP lid
275- gears (4.10s or 3.90s)
200-underdrive pulley
125- firecore 50 ignition wires
25-thermostat 160 degree
55-harlen Shift light
150- mail order tune from frost
230- headers by pacesetters
140- ebay y-pipe
93- hooker muffler
100- SLP lid
275- gears (4.10s or 3.90s)
200-underdrive pulley
125- firecore 50 ignition wires
25-thermostat 160 degree
55-harlen Shift light
For $370 you should pass on the pacesetters and ebay y pipe, and instead spend it on speed engineering stainless long tubes and y pipe. It's around that same price, if not right at it.
Anyway, before you guys totally blow the budget on mods, I'd change all fluids and make sure nothing is worn out suspension wise. Fix what needs to be fixed and then blow the rest on lid, exhaust, short throw, etc. A lid is the easiest and cheapest $/hp mod you will do on the car. Don't forget the little things like bolts and gaskets. It's easy to forget that stuff when figuring a budget.
Anyway, before you guys totally blow the budget on mods, I'd change all fluids and make sure nothing is worn out suspension wise. Fix what needs to be fixed and then blow the rest on lid, exhaust, short throw, etc. A lid is the easiest and cheapest $/hp mod you will do on the car. Don't forget the little things like bolts and gaskets. It's easy to forget that stuff when figuring a budget.
Last edited by sawblade99Z; Jan 18, 2015 at 03:12 AM.
True. Take a good look at the ball joints and tie rod ends...
I second the speed engineering or Texas Speed LT/Y setup. No sense in installing something that will eventually rot. Don't forget Prothane poly motor mounts.
Go 3.90's for the added strength.
Shop the classifieds here. There's AWAYS guys selling and wheeling / dealing. I built the majority of my Camaro from the classifieds. I think the numbers speak for them self.
I second the speed engineering or Texas Speed LT/Y setup. No sense in installing something that will eventually rot. Don't forget Prothane poly motor mounts.
Go 3.90's for the added strength.
Shop the classifieds here. There's AWAYS guys selling and wheeling / dealing. I built the majority of my Camaro from the classifieds. I think the numbers speak for them self.
$1500 is a decent amount. I think headers, ORY, prothane motor mounts, gears and a tune is an excellent start.
First I'd do all the free mods. http://www.installuniversity.com/ls1...documents.html
First I'd do all the free mods. http://www.installuniversity.com/ls1...documents.html
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 21
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From: Oregon
Okay to get the stainless works Lt's and y pipe.(are they Lt's and the y pipe from texas speed I ike 500?) 3.90s, self throttle body porting. A pcm tune better wires and prothane motor mounts? Are they similar to the urethane material? The car needs wheels and tires as factory wheels arent the best lookin and the tires are gone so well say 500 for a used vett tire/wheel set up. But sticking to mods; isnt a 160 stat to low? And a short through (B&M? Or Hurst? ). And the free mods that's about everything persay? car he has been looking at the dude said he did a full tune up. Ill link it one sec. It saysbthe cooling fan doesn't work thatd be the switch or sensor?http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/4842280854.html
What yall think?
What yall think?
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 21
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From: Oregon
What about these headers? I have been scrolling through the classifieds. There was some kooks headers and some others but they wanted $800+.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1762987-f-s-01-02-camaro-jet-hot-coated-lt-headers.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1762987-f-s-01-02-camaro-jet-hot-coated-lt-headers.html
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,893
Likes: 706
From: Mississippi
A set of pacesetter headers is what you want to keep a look out for used on tech. I have seen them sell for 150 used. On a shifter......A MGW shifter is waaaaaay better than B&M ripper. Kooks is top of the line headers but for this type of build it'll be a waste of money.
A set of pacesetter headers is what you want to keep a look out for used on tech. I have seen them sell for 150 used. On a shifter......A MGW shifter is waaaaaay better than B&M ripper. Kooks is top of the line headers but for this type of build it'll be a waste of money.
If I were to buy pace setter headers, I would only want to buy stainless. Also the merge on the Y pipe on the Pacesetter isn't the best. Be patient and look for used ARH headers or kooks.
Get the MGW. I put mine in my Vette before I even put the first power mod on. Just makes it way more enjoyable to drive; more precise shifts.
And again, don't skimp on the headers. Get stainless. Do it once, do it right. I'd get the entire setup from Texas speed. It's one stop shopping. I ran their 1 7/8" headers on my Camaro along with the TD's. They're great quality, and at a great price. The "original" affordable stainless header.
A 160* stat isn't too low. The cooler you can keep the motor, the longer it lives. I've had one in every car I've had, as well as the wife's SUV.
And again, don't skimp on the headers. Get stainless. Do it once, do it right. I'd get the entire setup from Texas speed. It's one stop shopping. I ran their 1 7/8" headers on my Camaro along with the TD's. They're great quality, and at a great price. The "original" affordable stainless header.
A 160* stat isn't too low. The cooler you can keep the motor, the longer it lives. I've had one in every car I've had, as well as the wife's SUV.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 21
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From: Oregon
What about a ls6 intake. Would that be something to do first over the exhaust maybe? Ls6 intakes can be had for $150-$200 yeah?
How are 3.90s stronger than 4.10s? Is there thst big of a difference besides the gear size?
How are 3.90s stronger than 4.10s? Is there thst big of a difference besides the gear size?
You can do either exhaust or intake first. Usually they're done together, but if I had to pick ONE, I'd want the car to exhale properly and optimally before I start adding more air to the equation.
Pinion is bigger on a 3.90 than a 4.10
A 160* stat isn't too low. The cooler you can keep the motor, the longer it lives. I've had one in every car I've had, as well as the wife's SUV.
I hear a lot of back and forth on this. What was your personal experience on this? HP, tune issues if any, just noticeable changes.
I hear a lot of back and forth on this. What was your personal experience on this? HP, tune issues if any, just noticeable changes.
A 160* stat isn't too low. The cooler you can keep the motor, the longer it lives. I've had one in every car I've had, as well as the wife's SUV. I hear a lot of back and forth on this. What was your personal experience on this? HP, tune issues if any, just noticeable changes.
There's people that say "the motor makes the most power at 180-185, that's what C5R did..." And that's true. But you're talking about a full-on race car that was COMPLETELY gone through after every race with a fine tooth comb.
I'm trying to get the most power I can, along with longevity. I'm sure there's others here with opinions as well, even if it's different than my own. Also, don't forget I live in one HELL of a hot place, most of which is 100% humidity.
Depending on the mileage I'd start with a tune up, seafoam the intake or do an induction cleaning. MSD wires/NGK plugs, clean MAF, etc
Speed engineering LT's and y pipe, cutout
SSRA, Lid
home port T/B
bump stop mod
thermo
mail order tune
Speed engineering LT's and y pipe, cutout
SSRA, Lid
home port T/B
bump stop mod
thermo
mail order tune