I have just never seen so much flagrant worshiping unless you are getting a kickback. It seems like the "Magic" cam with the "Secret" specs that is recommended for almost everyone unless you want to;
1. Use forced Induction
2. Pass emissions

I know this cam must be massive to have to worry about P/V clearance but there is no drivability issues? I have a fairly small cam by those standards and it does not drive anything like it did stock. (and yes it is tuned) I don't mind telling people about an item i like but i tell the whole truth about it, not just the good stuff.
People need advice on making informed decisions on their mods.

I know people on these boards that do get money for promoting items, but even those guys don't go as far as you guys do.

Do i like my cam, yes. Do i like your cam, yes. I know the approx specs for your cam, i just don't know the reason for the big secret. Someone afraid it will get copied?

You don't have to commute to get money for posting.

I know you didn't start the thread, just like all the other cam threads on here the last couple of days.

 

No you are right not everyone is making a drag car I'm not but I do use it as a good rule of thumb even for street use ETC... And I am aware of the way weather and altitude ETC... can alter the way a car runs we here in Houston area see vey high temps and very humid days so I can tell you it makes a big difference. Of corrse we are at sea level which helps. I'd like to take a ride in that car of yours sound like it runs OK!

 

Im not going to get in an argument over why Lou wont disclose numbers, as its none of my business, nor is it anything I worry about... Lou has been building C5R race engines for quite sometime now, so I personally believe he has some awesome technology into his G5 series cams... I took a gamble and tried the X2 a while back and couldnt be happier once I slapped that cam in, and that was even with a mail order tune! If I hadnt taken that chance then I would probably be in the same group of LG haters using a FMS or TR cam just because others were and I could see the specs. Well... specs dont tell all and I think theres a lot more to a cam... when a solid 20% of the LS1 population is raving about a cam with no negative feedback whatsoever I decided its worth trying.... now look at me In addition I sold that G5X2 when the X3 came out and it sold within 4 hours of being online... Maybe what you should do is take the same gamble I did and try it. If you hate it, turn around and sell the cam and get your money back... you have been working on engines since you were 10 so im sure a cam swap wont take you more than a few hours to do, whats a days worth of time to you? If Im wrong then I guess you proved me and the many other LG followers wrong with our assumption that the LG cam is almighty and second to none... and if im right, then I assure you that you will be side by side with Orange peel, myself and many others raving on how awesome this cam is...

Ive supplied all I can as far as info on these, and even gone as far as offering locals a ride in the car and even driving it! The cam sells itself, not the "LG Salesmen"

 

I may be coming out to college station soon at texas A&M... otherwise drop in to the shop anytime in AZ and you are more than welcome to try one of a dozen X3 cars within 15 minutes of me! If everything goes as planned one of my X2 customers with GTP heads may be dipping in the 9s with a stock bottom end this winter, another forged 347 X3 112 customer shouldnt be far behind, then there are plenty of cam only X3 guys that will be high 11s range! Also keep in mind though most of the cars I do are daily drivers with full audio systems, 18 inch wheels etc so they have a lot more than dragstrips and dynos in mind!

 

I dont have to sell the cams, they sell themselves. Ask most of my customers and most of the deals were sealed by letting them have the keys. All I do is mention the benefits. As far as drivability goes, we have a great tuner out here that does amazing things with the G5 cams... amazing enough to the point where even the auto cars have no issues with A/C and idling at lights! If you dont believe me then by all means stop in and check the cams out... Bring some of the LG haters and I will even give a group deal on the ride of your life and install into your own cars

Edit - And yes I am that confident you will love what you see so much that you will leave with a X3 installed in your car

 

duda - Kick backs, I would love some, this cam package wasn't cheap, but that's not happening. I have NEVER spoke to Lou, ****, anyone at LG. Maybe the reason there aren't any specs out is because the things we are telling people ARE TRUE! And that's what makes this cam so great, and Lou put a lot of time into these cams and doesn't want some dumb lazy **** copying them and selling them for peanuts.

It drives ******* amazing, what else do you want to hear? I wouldn't even be able to tell you what the specs were by driving it, it doesn't drive like a GIGANTIC cam like everyone thinks it is, it drives great, it drives the same or even better than my 224/228 cam did. Why would we tell people something that is false, so they can go buy it, and then turn around and bad mouth/bash the **** out of us and LGM? That's stupid, just look at the posts by the owners of the cam, are we all getting money from LGM?? Get real. We are all car enthusiasts here, we try to help each other out, if you are into ******* people over then that's cool with me, I'm not though. I have been on these boards (LS1.com) since '99 when I got the car, and I know A LOT of people out there in the internet world, and I have never lied about ****, especially something I OWN for ***** sake. If I didn't like it I would tell people, plain and simple.

You don't have to buy one or even think of buying one, that's fine, no need to call us liers.

 

Yeah that is ok I am running a Vortech S/C and that is not the setup I am looking for in my car. My friend might decide on one of these for his car though. If he does yeah I'll be installing it and heading back to MTI for a retune ETC.. So we will se what he picks out. By the way I didn't see you say whether or not you are an A4 or a 6spd? I am asumming you are a 6spd but just incase you are not what stall are you running?

 

I have a M6, Moser 12 bolt with 4.11's. Yeah I doubt this cam is a good blower cam

 

Another thing I noticed, people act like this whole no cam card/specs **** is new, MTI did this a long time ago with the B1, T1, etc cam when they first cam out. When you have a good thing, people don't want other dumb ***** that copy things for a living know

 

I have a 6 speed, one of my good clients has a 99 T/A Auto though... he had a SS3800 stall in it with a G5X2114 and old school GTP stage II heads, and on a shakedown pass he ran 10.8@128 on and off the gas... on a full pass we are expecting low 130s... and that was done on a 4800 ft DA day with temps over 100! not bad for a full weight trans am with a DVD player stereo, handicap provisions etc huh? Im sure if he can drive it every day, get in and out of his chair, start the car by remote (Remote starts are VERY picky on starting and his has no issues....) then I think that proves that drivability and power can be combined into one cam!

 

Guys,
Some poeple just bash for bashing sake or just pure ignorance. I can speak for myself that I am very interested in the X2.
However from my experience, I know a cam with such high durations and lifts is not the best thing for a stock block and any dealer with good conscience should not recommend it as such. Then again if the owner of the vehicle wants it in his stock motor, what can the dealer do? nothing! You want it, you pay for it, you'll have it.

But there is something in life called a dissagreement (Not Bashing). No one will convince me that a stock LS1 block can handle these parameters with durability in mind. If I change a cam, I would like my motor to last for a reasonable amount of time.

From a previous post (LS6 blocks rev to 6500 all day) well the LS1 is \NOT\ an LS6. There is no doubt in my mind that reving an LS1 to 7000 on a regular basis will kill the motor.

Just because I dissagree with the method some poeple use the cam with doesn't mean I'm a basher, maybe I'm just more reasonable or more patient.

BTW SSOnYourSix do you have any track times? W/Without juice?

 

I guess you guys took that all wrong

What I meant was, I don't care if I have a flock of kids or Chevy techs surrounding my car. It gets old! I have to deal with it now with just a freakin lid!

When I mentioned the old school gear heads, I mean I want to show them I don't need a big block with a gutted car and HUGE slicks to run good. That's simply all I meant.

Why I want to know the specs is because I don't want to be left in the dark about what I do with my car. Obviously you've all read my replies and you know all I want to do is learn about what is doing what, and why and how it's doing it. I am NOT going to be that ignorant guys that walks in and says "make it fast". I want to know exactly what i'm spending my money on.

So when all my friends and people from the track who DO understand what all these numbers mean, then I can tell them. Obviously they are going to say "what the hell are specs on that cam? It sounds NASTY!" So I want to be able to tell them. I actually must be the dumbest one in the bunch since I'm the only one of the "group" that doesn't really understand the numbers.

 

You are DEAD wrong if you think you can reliably rev the stock bottom end to 7000+. How long have you been doing it to your car? Most get away with it for a while, but its stupid that you're telling others that its ok when its not. Not to mention poor business practices when you dont really know yourself. While I personally have not had a problem, since my rev limiter is set to 6600, I personally have seen two motors that have spun bearings due to bolt stretch and one of them even broke the connecting rod off. Oh well, one day you or a customer of yours will have a rod hanging out of the motor all pissed off. Also, like I said before, I dont hate the G5X cams...I've got nothing against them...I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered getting one. While they are great performers, they are not for everyone.

Well said Predator-Z...do I sense an agreement LOL

 

From my understanding, there is no strength difference in the LS6 block to the LS1 block, just better cooling. I may be wrong, but a lot of people are commenting on the block, the rods seem to be the weak point, not the block itself. Hell people are running stock cranks with HIGH amount of HP, they just get forged rods, pistons, etc.

I understand people want the car to be reliable, but it's not like we are driving the car at 7000 RPM all day all night, maybe once a day if that for a split second, hell I haven't gotten on the car at all since the night I installed the cam, that was over a week ago. So the motor will last a while, unless you just constantly flog the thing at high RPM all the time, then it really doesn't matter what cam it is, the motor won't last.

 

Well actually there is; the LS1 is a stronger block in block integrity. But as far as the internal components the late LS6's are definately somewhat stronger. And yes the rod bolts on the LS1 and the piston rings are its weakest link.

That split second is all it takes.

You will be tempted, you will enjoy and one day (no mistake about it)

MYls1Hauls " it's a miracle" LOL

 

So like I said, the block in itself is fine, the rods, etc in the LS1 are weaker.

I guess, if we actually hit our rev limiters at 7000rpm, so I am sure I end up shifting around 6800-6900 rpm area.

I will be tempted to flog my car silly all day? Not likley, its too hot to do that here, and there's no point with the heat, so I usually drive normal, so I will count on the motor holding together for a while. Atleast until I get my 422 going

Just like you running the bottle, one day make no mistake about it

 

The ls6 block has better windage and has bay breathing windows, however, it is weaker than the ls1 block

 

Yeap, you got it, LOL. I got a forged 347 shortblock in the works, but that won't be operational for at least 6 months.

However I'm shooting around 150 dry (maybe a little more ??) max rev at 6100 with stock cam.
I learned the hard way, I've killed 2 other motors with 200+ wet (both Y2K's), 1 by spun rod bearing and the other by piston/cylinder wall explosion.

 

My track times are on street tires Just FYI though all 2001 LS1 cars share parts with the LS6 cars. Rod bolts were upgraded in these years to the new ones and share the same part number now so strengh in the two is identicle... In addition I just came accross a G5X2 114 for sale with a 921 setup that has low miles on it from one of my customers, if you MIGHT be interested let me know, otehrwise if you buy it and hate it im sure you can get exactly what you paid out of it.

 

Let me know how many LS1 engines you have built... im going on 75,000 miles right now, the first 30,000 since break in were set to 6600 with the LS6 cam and the last 45,000 were set to 7,000. The car sees nitrous all the time, I Run DRs on the street, I hit it on every onramp possible because I enjoy how it feels. My main customers are guys 18-25 that drive the same way, they want to enjoy the powerband and do so... I have AT LEAST 10 cars I personally built around here running to 7000 problem free...

As I said before, its not 7000 rpm that kills the rod bolts, its the launching at the track, the missing shifts, the pounding shifts, nitrous etc... WHICH WILL HAPPEN NO MATTER WHAT RPM YOU SHIFT AT!