395 stroker just does not feel right
395 stroker just does not feel right Engine specs are:
395ci LS1 based
LS1 block hones to 3.905" and decked to 9.235"
4.125" Stroke
6.125" Rod length
Wiseco +3cc domed pistons, pin height 1.050"
Piston above deck .002"
PRC 2.5 243 heads with 63.5cc chambers
Cometic 3.910" 0.060" compressed head gaskets
242/248 @.050 .622/.617 114+2 XFI lobes (3018 & 3039) IVC ABDC @ 78
292/300
Static compression 12.28:1
Dynamic compression 8.62:1
Quench distance .058"
The car honestly feels like a complete turd. The AFR at WOT is around 12.6, most timing it will take is around 22. Barely beat a 5th Gen Camaro from a roll.
What can I do to get some pep back without starting over?
395ci LS1 based
LS1 block hones to 3.905" and decked to 9.235"
4.125" Stroke
6.125" Rod length
Wiseco +3cc domed pistons, pin height 1.050"
Piston above deck .002"
PRC 2.5 243 heads with 63.5cc chambers
Cometic 3.910" 0.060" compressed head gaskets
242/248 @.050 .622/.617 114+2 XFI lobes (3018 & 3039) IVC ABDC @ 78
292/300
Static compression 12.28:1
Dynamic compression 8.62:1
Quench distance .058"
The car honestly feels like a complete turd. The AFR at WOT is around 12.6, most timing it will take is around 22. Barely beat a 5th Gen Camaro from a roll.
What can I do to get some pep back without starting over?
Last edited by Pulse_GTO; Jan 27, 2015 at 11:08 PM.
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 15
From: South Florida
Not yet. But it feels less powerful than when the LS1 was in it. That engine made 464/436 peak. Right now the car won't break the tires loose stomping on the gas pedal in first, but with the LS1 first was pretty much useless and second would sometimes break the tires loose above 5-5.5k rpm.
Seems to me that the ultra thick head gasket was used to keep the static compression low enough so the dynamic compression wouldn't be too high for pump gas. Having a **** ton of quench is just BAD !!!
Your heads are decent but honestly a .040 gasket with a CNC'd 317 would be a much better way of keeping enough static compression while making the engine less octane sensitive.
So without spending too much money or starting over I'd suggest you get a hold of Martin at Tick to see if he could change up the camshaft.
I'm not a cam expert but something seems strange about where those lobes are. Not that they aren't about the right size but more so just in the wrong positions.....IVC, overlap, etc.
If you have a specific guy preference for cam..EPS (Geoff Skinner), Kip Fabre at Cam Motion, or Brian Tooley could all help ya out a bunch.
Your heads are decent but honestly a .040 gasket with a CNC'd 317 would be a much better way of keeping enough static compression while making the engine less octane sensitive.
So without spending too much money or starting over I'd suggest you get a hold of Martin at Tick to see if he could change up the camshaft.
I'm not a cam expert but something seems strange about where those lobes are. Not that they aren't about the right size but more so just in the wrong positions.....IVC, overlap, etc.
If you have a specific guy preference for cam..EPS (Geoff Skinner), Kip Fabre at Cam Motion, or Brian Tooley could all help ya out a bunch.
Seems to me that the ultra thick head gasket was used to keep the static compression low enough so the dynamic compression wouldn't be too high for pump gas. Having a **** ton of quench is just BAD !!!
Your heads are decent but honestly a .040 gasket with a CNC'd 317 would be a much better way of keeping enough static compression while making the engine less octane sensitive.
So without spending too much money or starting over I'd suggest you get a hold of Martin at Tick to see if he could change up the camshaft.
I'm not a cam expert but something seems strange about where those lobes are. Not that they aren't about the right size but more so just in the wrong positions.....IVC, overlap, etc.
If you have a specific guy preference for cam..EPS (Geoff Skinner), Kip Fabre at Cam Motion, or Brian Tooley could all help ya out a bunch.
Your heads are decent but honestly a .040 gasket with a CNC'd 317 would be a much better way of keeping enough static compression while making the engine less octane sensitive.
So without spending too much money or starting over I'd suggest you get a hold of Martin at Tick to see if he could change up the camshaft.
I'm not a cam expert but something seems strange about where those lobes are. Not that they aren't about the right size but more so just in the wrong positions.....IVC, overlap, etc.
If you have a specific guy preference for cam..EPS (Geoff Skinner), Kip Fabre at Cam Motion, or Brian Tooley could all help ya out a bunch.
I'm probably looking at about $900 to swap heads and gaskets assuming I can get about a grand for my current one. Question is if anyone thinks that there would be enough of a difference to justify this expense.
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Another option is to just put the thinner gaskets on with your heads and then tune for E85 depending on availability in your area. Was that cam degreed in and found to be accurate to the grind card ??
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 15
From: South Florida
I'm going to guess something isn't right with how you make the performance sound. Wondering if the cam was degreed is a good question. Try & figure it out before you start throwing more money/parts at it. Good luck!
As far as the cam degreeing goes, the machine shop and myself checked it using both methods and found the cam to be 9 degrees too far advanced. Now this could be a little on the crank, the sprockets and the cam. I thought it was a little odd to find so much, but we checked with the intake centerline and intake opening method.
so where the cam card called for 52 degrees ABDC intake valve closing figuring 292 minus 242 equals 50. so half of that or 25 from your stated 77 ABDC seat timing is where I got the 52 @ .050.
With that being said, you guys then retarded it with a timing chain/keyway
9 total degrees ????
With that being said, you guys then retarded it with a timing chain/keyway
9 total degrees ????
so where the cam card called for 52 degrees ABDC intake valve closing figuring 292 minus 242 equals 50. so half of that or 25 from your stated 77 ABDC seat timing is where I got the 52 @ .050.
With that being said, you guys then retarded it with a timing chain/keyway
9 total degrees ????
With that being said, you guys then retarded it with a timing chain/keyway
9 total degrees ????
I'm gonna bet the farm that there in lies the problem. By your description of how the thing feels it sounds bottle-necked and like something is holding it back (50 or so horse) from being a monster. That cam must have been ground by a drunken refugee with a Milwaukee hand held grinder. From 30 plus years of assembly experience, EVERY time I've ever had to move a cam that much in any direction...the engine just runs like a bucket of ****. Think about it....if you're trying to get the intake lobe to a certain spot and it requires moving it that far...now the exhaust lobe is in a different zip code and the engine is suffering from extreme pumping losses. Remove, drop on floor and discard said two piece camshaft. All kidding aside, seriously call Tick tomorrow and explain all this to Martin, By the weekend he could have the right cam at your doorstep, ground correctly, pop it in, set it and forget it. The next thread you post will be a picture of a football field length of posi stripes and you pissing all over yourself....LOL
Good Luck to ya.....
Good Luck to ya.....
Even if the cam was off I would say something else is going on. Was the car ever ran on the larger injectors before being tuned?
Lonnie
Lonnie
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This is the second cam I had in the 395. The first one was a 247/253 @.050, .623/.623 113+4. This cam did 504/460 peak. I had to change cams and go through the engine due low oil pressure caused by scored bearings caused by debris from the cam lobes chewing up. I went with a smaller cam as I was hoping for a little more low and mid-range torque.
