Questions on Cam build
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2014
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Questions on Cam build Backround on the car, my Camaro is a 98 ls1 with 180,000 miles and has the six speed transmission that I had recently rebuilt. I'm wanting to do a cam build but am getting different ideas from different people. This motor doesn't use a drop of oil, but does have a lifter not pumping up. That is the reason behind doing the cam swap, figured if I was doing the lifters, might as well shove in a cam.
I was thinking of doing a Texas Speed Magic Stick 3 cam kit, which would include, cam, lifters, springs(retainer...ect.) pushrods, but my worry is with the set up I have now that the motor will have issues down the road due to mileage. I don't have a huge budget to spend on this car. If I decide to do the cam swap what would be good some things that I should also think about replacing?
Right now I am thinking, just doing cam, lifters, springs, pushrods... would I need to do more that this?
I was thinking of doing a Texas Speed Magic Stick 3 cam kit, which would include, cam, lifters, springs(retainer...ect.) pushrods, but my worry is with the set up I have now that the motor will have issues down the road due to mileage. I don't have a huge budget to spend on this car. If I decide to do the cam swap what would be good some things that I should also think about replacing?
Right now I am thinking, just doing cam, lifters, springs, pushrods... would I need to do more that this?
I would do a different cam, something with softer lobes. Might as well replace the timing set and oil pump while it's all apart. The lifters trays would probably be a good idea too.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,803
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From: Wilmington, De
Definitely look at something with less aggressive lobes. There are much newer cam designs out there that will make better power with less aggressive lobes.
With the work you are looking to do, keep in mind that the cylinder head bolts and crank bolt are both torque-to-yield, so you will need to replace them. You will need to invest in new gaskets: head, timing cover, crank seal, exhaust manifolds, and water pump. With 180,000, a new timing chain and oil pump should be on the list, as well.
Also, lifter trays are an absolute must for replacement. Just about everyone who has reported a lifter turning in its bore did not replace the trays with the lifters. It would be a shame to have all of that work undone because of a tray cracking.
With the work you are looking to do, keep in mind that the cylinder head bolts and crank bolt are both torque-to-yield, so you will need to replace them. You will need to invest in new gaskets: head, timing cover, crank seal, exhaust manifolds, and water pump. With 180,000, a new timing chain and oil pump should be on the list, as well.
Also, lifter trays are an absolute must for replacement. Just about everyone who has reported a lifter turning in its bore did not replace the trays with the lifters. It would be a shame to have all of that work undone because of a tray cracking.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 112
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From: Petal, MS
There is one item that everyone has overlooked on doing this cam swap. CAM BEARINGS!
With the amount of miles on the clock 180,000 i believe is what the OP stated, the cam bearings are going to have a lot of wear on them. If they show any of the copper looking color then they will definitley need to be replaced. Just keep this in mind when you tear into it.
I also agree with the other guys about using a less aggressive cam lobe, especially if this is a daily driver.
With the amount of miles on the clock 180,000 i believe is what the OP stated, the cam bearings are going to have a lot of wear on them. If they show any of the copper looking color then they will definitley need to be replaced. Just keep this in mind when you tear into it.
I also agree with the other guys about using a less aggressive cam lobe, especially if this is a daily driver.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 334
From: Wilmington, De
As stated, the only bearings I would inspect are the cam bearings. If the front cam bearing looks fine, then you are good to go. With rings, pistons, and other bottom end work, the motor will need to come out of the car and you are looking at doing a complete rebuild at that point. If the motor isn't smoking, consuming oil, or exhibiting any other signs of fatigue, I wouldn't worry about the bottom end, especially since you said you are on a bit of a budget.
As for camshafts, call around to a few vendors and see what they have to offer. Cam Motion, for instance, prides itself in having camshafts with lobes that are easy on valvetrain parts. The problem with a lot of the Texas Speed offerings is that they are 10+ years old at this point and have some very aggressive lobes in terms of ramp rates. Those lobes are how people rolled back then because that's how everyone figured you had to make power. Nowadays, milder lobes are making more power with much better reliability.
OP, this is advice I received on here, and it is spot on - you can do a cam only, but will be limited by your ability to get air in and out of the motor. You can easily overcam a stock engine only to have it run worse than it did stock. If you call vendors for cam recommendations, you get completely different recommendations if you say you have headers and a FAST intake vs all stock.
If you are set on doing the cam, then by all means, do it, but you'll be alot happier with it if you do it in conjunction with other things. it's all about the combination, not the individual parts.
All depends on how much you want to spend. Stock 243's are good for 15-20whp as it is. I wouldnt waste the time to install stock 243's though. Either stick with the 241's or send the 243's off to get ported.
