Thanks for that! 
To change the Rod bolts or not is the question...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Central CA
To change the Rod bolts or not is the question... Hey All,
I am trying to decide if I should bother changing Rod Bolts or not. A little background info may or may not help you understand why I am hesitant.
I have a late 02 SS with an LS6 block. Everything I have read is that it has better bolts than say a 2001 and prior block. The cam I plan to use a 220/224 .604 lift with a recommended 6500 rpm shift point with 6800 rpm rev limit.
If I am going to do the rod Bolts the engine is coming out. If not I plan to change the cam and heads in the car.
Your thoughts on changing rod bolt or not is greatly appreciated.
Doug
I am trying to decide if I should bother changing Rod Bolts or not. A little background info may or may not help you understand why I am hesitant.
I have a late 02 SS with an LS6 block. Everything I have read is that it has better bolts than say a 2001 and prior block. The cam I plan to use a 220/224 .604 lift with a recommended 6500 rpm shift point with 6800 rpm rev limit.
If I am going to do the rod Bolts the engine is coming out. If not I plan to change the cam and heads in the car.
Your thoughts on changing rod bolt or not is greatly appreciated.
Doug
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Aftermarket rod bolts clamp harder. Generally speaking that deforms the bearing journal somewhat. Some more, some less. Why risk it? Yours are plenty good for that rpm. And no there was no oiling differences, don't repeat that kind of stuff.
I've read a few posts on here over the years that some people that have installed new rod bolts had no problems, and I've seen others that have wiped bearings and hurt cranks from deformed caps.
If I remember correctly, Katech says that with their bolts, you don't have to hone the rods, and ARP strongly recommends that you do.
Like I said though, last time I remember reading about it was a couple of years ago. Maybe you can look up some older threads on here, or someone else with a better memory can remember.
I wouldn't take the risk if you only plan to spin to 6,500 though.
If I remember correctly, Katech says that with their bolts, you don't have to hone the rods, and ARP strongly recommends that you do.
Like I said though, last time I remember reading about it was a couple of years ago. Maybe you can look up some older threads on here, or someone else with a better memory can remember.
I wouldn't take the risk if you only plan to spin to 6,500 though.
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Brett Foote Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
One can only hope....when a rod lets loose, it gets ugly fast. Here's some trivia: what happens when a rod breaks and windows a block? The piston typically breaks and that hole becomes your new throttle body....one that physically remains open causing your motor to accelerate after the carnage.
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
I turned my 2002 sbe to 7100 without a problem. That motor did hydrolock and broke a rod. To make a long story short once the rod let go I had nothing left salvageable but the crank. What was left of the rod that stayed on the crank acted as a hammer and beat holes in the bottom of the block just above the oil pan. I wouldn't touch the rods unless you plan on doing a rebuild and resizing them. Not Katech, not arp just as it is. Not worth the risk.
If it makes you feel any better I have made prolly 10 passes on a 200 shot spinning to 7,000rpm on a 100% stock ls1 short block. pan has never been off. car makes 600hp to the tire and nothing has broken yet.
I've read a few posts on here over the years that some people that have installed new rod bolts had no problems, and I've seen others that have wiped bearings and hurt cranks from deformed caps.
If I remember correctly, Katech says that with their bolts, you don't have to hone the rods, and ARP strongly recommends that you do.
Like I said though, last time I remember reading about it was a couple of years ago. Maybe you can look up some older threads on here, or someone else with a better memory can remember.
I wouldn't take the risk if you only plan to spin to 6,500 though.
If I remember correctly, Katech says that with their bolts, you don't have to hone the rods, and ARP strongly recommends that you do.
Like I said though, last time I remember reading about it was a couple of years ago. Maybe you can look up some older threads on here, or someone else with a better memory can remember.
I wouldn't take the risk if you only plan to spin to 6,500 though.
You're taking a gamble if you change the rod bolts without checking for proper size and bearing clearances. Leave em alone.