So, my trick $2500 crankshaft when out to lunch when the rag (or whatever it was) the shop left in the short block plugged the oil pickup solid. I don't feel like spending another $2500 and question whether I need a crank like that anyway (I let my brother do the shopping ) I have no idea what the HP level is, but the car is in the 9's at 3250 lbs with an iron block 6L motor, 250+ cam, and sheet metal intake. I shift at 8000 or more. Will a stock crank cut it? If so, where can I get one? Looking around, it seems everyone sells stroker cranks.

 

I think the shop that left the rag inside should pony up for your crank replacement.

US forged steel should be all you need.

 

So do I, but that isn't going to happen.
US forged steel meaning?

 

Can the crank you have be turned and saved with over-sized bearings? Would be the first thing I'd explore

 

That is what I had hoped, but some experts said to forget it. It took out the front two rods and that journal. That must be the last part to get oil. A bit surprising there wasn't more damage. Anyway, no spun bearings but the rod big ends are blue and some area around the journal is blue. The journal itself is rough.

 

Means cranks made with US forged steel... not Chinese ****.

Callies entry level US Forgings run about $1400 and are the Dragonslayer series. That would probably be all you need. Then you can step up to the Magnum or Ultra Billet series. The Ultra Billet is over $3k. The Magnum is about $1700 and might be worth the upgrade over the Dragonslayer due to better 4340 forging material and additional machine work.

Unfortunately, you really shouldn't be buying a crank if a shop left a rag inside the shortblock.

 

I'm curious as to why the hell the shop thinks they DONT owe you a motor, when THEY are the ones that screwed up.

By all means post who it is so we all know.

 

I pray you never let "this" shop ever touch your car again. I would be beyond livid if it were mine and they told me they didn't owe me a new engine!

 

Yeah, but what are you going to do? Bomb their shop? Not enough money to sue - the lawyer would get it all and more. Only thing I can see is never go back.

 

I can't prove it and they deny it. This isn't the first time this sort of thing has happened. A shop in Fort Wayne screwed up the piston clearance on Mahle pistons so it wiped the coating off the pistons, fouled the oil, and took out the engine. A big name shop fixed it all up (for like $8K) so I could make Bowling Green. First pull on the dyno it was so rich it rolled black smoke out the exhaust. I kept leaning it down but the HP did not increase. That should have been a warning, but I was focused on getting to the BG race. Second pass at BG it scattered. This time it took out the block and a head. First time I got nothing, second time they fixed the head. If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all ....
Shop is in Ligonier Indiana.

 

Ah. Gottcha. Thanks.
I would think a Dragonslayer would be enough for a N/A, 370 inch motor. I do spin it past 8000 so I think I do need a good crank. This thing probably makes 600 or so HP.
I agree, but they don't .... And it is obviously more than just a crank.

 

Just spitballing here, but would a forged cut down stock LS7 crank handle the power? I really don't know, that's why I said I'm brainstorming here, but trying to save you some cash as well.

 

Isn't that a 4" or so crank? I need a 3.62". I have read here that the stock LS1 crank is good for 1000 HP, and many say it is good for 6500 RPM, but no one says it will handle over 8000 RPM.

 

True about the 4" stroke. LS7 has a redline of 7k though from the factory. (Ti rods probably play a factor there)

There's always the LSA if its stock stroke you're looking for, with an 8 bolt flange. Just have to modify the flywheel.

LSA Crankshaft (P/N 12603616): Forged steel with eight-bolt flange

 

Thanks. I suspect overlaying an 8 bolt pattern on the existing 6 would be difficult. New flywheel isn't too expensive though. RAM probably has an 8 bolt version of what I use.

 

The crank has 62916 on the snout and 62916 P 25 on the first throw. It weight 42# with gun drilled mains and also drilled throws. It looks like a Callies Magnum XL but they say it isn't one of theirs. Anyone have any idea where it came from?