slocaddy

So ive searched everywhere locally, and for some reason am m11/2.00 is the "unicorn of the bolt/thread world. I'm planning on making one from a old bolt, and if the arp head studs go in by finger easy, than I say mission accomplished. This will be an iron block, so no worries of messing up aluminum. I'll report back with my findings, Just curious of others success/failures?

wayland1985

Most of the DIY's around here just tell you to use the bolts you removed from the head, so it seems to be fairly common practice.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

It works perfect. Trust me. I've done it.

Take a long bolt, and a short bolt. Cut 3 lines symmetrically in it with an an angle grinder or whatever you have; end to end.

It works just fine like that.

slocaddy

So many nay Sayers "you have buy more stuff or It just wont work", like your some kind of idiot for doing the same thing a different/cheaper way Lol! This is what I wanted to hear, I didn't want to be held up by this, I will have top end back together tomarrow. Thanks guys

handyandy496

iTrader: (9)

A standard bolt with cut reliefs works fine for cleaning but you really need to use a tap/tool steel to correct for distorted or cross threaded threads.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Absolutely agree with that. In this case though, it just sounds like we're trying to clean the GM **** out of the holes.

slocaddy

Yep, no damage that I'm aware of, of course I would love to have the correct tool, but that's also another week out and 50/60 bucks, I'll report back later today

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Trust me!!!! The ARP thread cleaner is freakin awesome and worth the $40. I tried the bolt trick, but the ARP actually cleaned the heck out of the threads. I was able yo install my studs all the way down with my fingers.

I don't think trying to be frugal here is worth the possibility of dicking up the head bolt threads with a Bugard cut OEM bolt

wayland1985

Do you have an item number, or part number for that?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...1-x-2-0-a.html

wayland1985

Excellent. Thanks.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I personally don't think it's worth the money. I too was able to run my studs down with my fingers, but then again it probably took me 4x longer with the bolt, since I had to make multiple runs, so o do see its usefulness.

I also hooked up a piece of aquarium air tubing to my shop nozzle on the air compressor and blew all the **** out of the holes. (Another trick that's good to know)

I'll gladly rent the two I'd need though if anyone offers.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, many folks have done it, my advice would be the proper chaser. I tried the bolt, and ended up with the chaser. Bought it, used it, and sold it. Not much out of pocket cost and very pleased with the end result

slocaddy

Great success! Bolts run down by finger, top end back together, took about 5 mins to grove bolt. I would not argue that the chaser is the "best way", but isn't this why we have the forums, it's to "hot rod" and share knowledge/tips/tricks? The 40 saved here will just go towards something else now, and I'll help my friends as well. thanks guys

slocaddy

Today's work....

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

looks good, one of the best grooved home made bolts I've seen

Fedupwbs

iTrader: (2)

I did this today and it worked great. Milled 3 grooves in the bolt with the Bridgeport. Simply cleaning out the trash left behind.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Ive done both ways. They both work. ARP is a damn nice piece though.

mkvamso

iTrader: (2)

I blow them out with air first, like a bunch, then use a stock bolt with a few lines cut in it.
It's worked well every time so far, and it's free

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Welcome to 1997.... That's how it's been done for a long time...