, seriously I would not have drilled it. Youre repairing the crank regardless, drilling it just makes that repair way harder....I mean it wasnt broke off was it? 
Drilling out ARP crank bolt?
If you worry about the homemade tool moving, grind or mill flats on the end so you can hold it with a wrench. Buy the rod from Fastenal and you have enough to make 3 tools. It works really nicely if you have a bearing, but not required. If you don't heat the hub up, make sure to measure the snout to make sure the hub / crank end difference is in spec. That is good to know about the ATI since I have one on the way.
I am not going to argue over which tool is better, I have used an aftermarket tool which works nicely, but I own the homemade version which I think also works nicely.
I would try jacking the car up really high, putting the breaker bar on the bolt, and putting the 4' jack handle on it for leverage while someone else holds their hand to keep pressure on the socket so it won't slip. Some heat may also be beneficial. Unfortunately you are in a tough situation and this will be one problem that you will never have again.
I am not going to argue over which tool is better, I have used an aftermarket tool which works nicely, but I own the homemade version which I think also works nicely.
I would try jacking the car up really high, putting the breaker bar on the bolt, and putting the 4' jack handle on it for leverage while someone else holds their hand to keep pressure on the socket so it won't slip. Some heat may also be beneficial. Unfortunately you are in a tough situation and this will be one problem that you will never have again.
If you worry about the homemade tool moving, grind or mill flats on the end so you can hold it with a wrench. Buy the rod from Fastenal and you have enough to make 3 tools. It works really nicely if you have a bearing, but not required. If you don't heat the hub up, make sure to measure the snout to make sure the hub / crank end difference is in spec. That is good to know about the ATI since I have one on the way.
I am not going to argue over which tool is better, I have used an aftermarket tool which works nicely, but I own the homemade version which I think also works nicely.
I would try jacking the car up really high, putting the breaker bar on the bolt, and putting the 4' jack handle on it for leverage while someone else holds their hand to keep pressure on the socket so it won't slip. Some heat may also be beneficial. Unfortunately you are in a tough situation and this will be one problem that you will never have again.
I am not going to argue over which tool is better, I have used an aftermarket tool which works nicely, but I own the homemade version which I think also works nicely.
I would try jacking the car up really high, putting the breaker bar on the bolt, and putting the 4' jack handle on it for leverage while someone else holds their hand to keep pressure on the socket so it won't slip. Some heat may also be beneficial. Unfortunately you are in a tough situation and this will be one problem that you will never have again.
ATI's instructions don't say to put it in the oven. It says to put anti-seize on the inner surface and press it on. I would like to know the reps name who said to heat it. Too much liability if you ask me. I'm sure you could sue them if you burned yourself lol...
http://www.atiracing.com/instruction...LS7-Damper.pdf
Lots of talk about it shoulda been done right, lesson learned but lets look at fixing this crank:
Natesully, the real problem you're gonna have to drill out this stuck bolt is you're gonna end up drilling into the threads. If the bolt is stuck, drilling a hole in the bolt alone won't free it from the crank.
Even if you cross threaded the crank and got the bolt out without drilling, the crank threads are gone. Running a M16 tap into the crank won't restore threads that have been sheared off.
You're gonna need to drill & tap to a larger bolt size OR replace the crank.
Natesully, the real problem you're gonna have to drill out this stuck bolt is you're gonna end up drilling into the threads. If the bolt is stuck, drilling a hole in the bolt alone won't free it from the crank.
Even if you cross threaded the crank and got the bolt out without drilling, the crank threads are gone. Running a M16 tap into the crank won't restore threads that have been sheared off.
You're gonna need to drill & tap to a larger bolt size OR replace the crank.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Wilmington, De
OP, I didn't read through all of the crap, but have you tried applying some heat while hitting the bolt with an impact?
Also, are you using a good impact gun? Something with 600+ ft/lbs of reversing torque?
Also, are you using a good impact gun? Something with 600+ ft/lbs of reversing torque?
Last edited by Paul Bell; Mar 9, 2015 at 06:49 PM. Reason: Allow me to do a little cleaning here...
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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Now that he probably knows how to properly install the pulley. Geez!
OP: since you said that you can get a little turn back and forth on your bolt.
Try a little heat on the bolt and let wax melt down the bolt shank using a crayon or candle. The wax should wick down into some threads to act as lubricant, then you might be able to work it out with the slight chance of having workable threads.
If it works out use a stud and nut instead of the crank bolt.
OP: since you said that you can get a little turn back and forth on your bolt.
Try a little heat on the bolt and let wax melt down the bolt shank using a crayon or candle. The wax should wick down into some threads to act as lubricant, then you might be able to work it out with the slight chance of having workable threads.
If it works out use a stud and nut instead of the crank bolt.
Was the ARP bolt coated with the ARP Lube? If not, then a good chance the threads are galled and the only way to remove is by drilling it out. A big wrench will only break the bolt.
Let's review what's going on here:
So, the bolt WILL NOT TURN in either direction and you've already started drilling it out.
Yes, there are longer drill bits but from industrial supply like Graingers or online only.
You'll need to completely drill out the bolt, including the galled/stripped/damaged threads in the crank. Then you'll need to drill and tap the crank to a larger thread size and get an appropriate high strength bolt.
You'll also be faced with the issue of getting the new threads dead centered and straight in the crank.
Another option is using a Helicoil. For M16 x 2 thread, the insert is number 1084 BUT for this application, you should consult Helicoil directly.
Meanwhile, please update us with your progress.
Well, I managed to get my ARP crank bolt stuck. Yes, by using it to install the pulley, I thought it would be fine if I hammered the pulley on most of the way first - it wasn't, now it's about 5-6 turns from touching the pulley but stuck hard. I don't think more torque is the answer, given that the impact can't turn it, so I think I need to drill it out. Anyone know where you can get a set of big/long bits to drill the bolt out, and a long M16x2 tap or chaser to clean out the threads?
Not that strong. My Home Depot bits are cutting in just fine, I just need longer bits to get all the way through. The impact, and me doing a pull-up on the breaker bar won't move it more than a few degrees in either direction - I really don't think it's going to wrench anywhere without breaking. So, original question - anyone know where to get some decent/long drill bits?
You'll need to completely drill out the bolt, including the galled/stripped/damaged threads in the crank. Then you'll need to drill and tap the crank to a larger thread size and get an appropriate high strength bolt.
You'll also be faced with the issue of getting the new threads dead centered and straight in the crank.
Another option is using a Helicoil. For M16 x 2 thread, the insert is number 1084 BUT for this application, you should consult Helicoil directly.
Meanwhile, please update us with your progress.
I'm going to err on the side of "Dave thinks this:"
Your crank is trash. You'll never get the correct balance, and there's no way in hell id trust a helicoil in this application. 240ftlbs? Ok...
Drill out the bolt. Drill out the threads.
Pin the balancer. It's the only way I see this crankshaft being useable at this point.
Your crank is trash. You'll never get the correct balance, and there's no way in hell id trust a helicoil in this application. 240ftlbs? Ok...
Drill out the bolt. Drill out the threads.
Pin the balancer. It's the only way I see this crankshaft being useable at this point.
Time for a 383 or 416 or something.
Btw, there is no need to heat up the ATI balancer. It goes on much easier than the stock balancer. Yes, it's an interference fit, but it's not as tight.
Btw, there is no need to heat up the ATI balancer. It goes on much easier than the stock balancer. Yes, it's an interference fit, but it's not as tight.
