Drilling out ARP crank bolt?
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Drilling out ARP crank bolt? Well, I managed to get my ARP crank bolt stuck. Yes, by using it to install the pulley, I thought it would be fine if I hammered the pulley on most of the way first - it wasn't, now it's about 5-6 turns from touching the pulley but stuck hard. I don't think more torque is the answer, given that the impact can't turn it, so I think I need to drill it out. Anyone know where you can get a set of big/long bits to drill the bolt out, and a long M16x2 tap or chaser to clean out the threads?
Well, I managed to get my ARP crank bolt stuck. Yes, by using it to install the pulley, I thought it would be fine if I hammered the pulley on most of the way first - it wasn't, now it's about 5-6 turns from touching the pulley but stuck hard. I don't think more torque is the answer, given that the impact can't turn it, so I think I need to drill it out. Anyone know where you can get a set of big/long bits to drill the bolt out, and a long M16x2 tap or chaser to clean out the threads?
Wow....I know it's hindsight, but geeze, the proper tool isnt that expensive and being the pully is press fit, your not going to be able to smack it on. Too many people here have learned the hard way pressing it on with the bolt. 99% of the time ends with stripped threads....
Youre screwed. The ARP bolt is a hard high strength alloy. You will need one expensive drill bit to drill it out. Your best best will be to wrench it out. The threads in the crank are toast.
A bad situation to be in....this is going to be expensive for you.
For those of us following what he does next, could you share the correct way to put the crank pulley on? I just took mine off with a puller so it needs to go on and I'd like to avoid the situation the OP is in.
search for hawk balancer installer. You can build one yourself also. Myself I won't lie have used the old bolt before and as worked flawlessly I feel with my experience I can do it. But I did finally purchase the correct tool years ago and will not take a chance anymore. **** happens.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900135
Btw unlike the hawk tool, the summit rods looks long enough to cover the longer ls7
Last edited by badazz81z28; Mar 8, 2015 at 08:11 PM.
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The real thing has a stronger rod and uses a bearing....like I said in another post, going cheap will likely cost you more money later when you damage something,. That home made tool is like using a longer bolt.
The real tool has a wrenching point to keep the rod from turning while another wrenching point with the bearing to draw it on....don't go cheap. This is a sure way to alleviate any possibility of screwing something up.
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Theres nothing wrong with the DIY install tool. Sure the more expensive one may look pretty but the bearing in it isnt really necessary. 98% of pople use the diy one and never have a problem myself included. Once the threaded rod is bottomed out in the crank it acts like a stud. Torquing of the nut to draw the pulley on it isnt going to affect anything. Similar to torquing down a cylinder head to the block, all of the load is on the threads of the stud the stud is bottomed out in the hole and its going anywhere or hurting anything.
Also for anyone reading you can heat the pulley at 250 degrees in the oven for 30 minute, grab it with oven mits and it will literally fall onto the crank then just torque the bolt down. For the bits try fastenal maybe?
Also for anyone reading you can heat the pulley at 250 degrees in the oven for 30 minute, grab it with oven mits and it will literally fall onto the crank then just torque the bolt down. For the bits try fastenal maybe?
Last edited by redbird555; Mar 8, 2015 at 08:38 PM.
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So, original question - anyone know where to get some decent/long drill bits?
Theres nothing wrong with the DIY install tool. Sure the more expensive one may look pretty but the bearing in it isnt really necessary. 98% of pople use the diy one and never have a problem myself included.
Also for anyone reading you can heat the pulley at 250 degrees in the oven for 30 minute, grab it with oven mits and it will literally fall onto the crank then just torque the bolt down.
Also for anyone reading you can heat the pulley at 250 degrees in the oven for 30 minute, grab it with oven mits and it will literally fall onto the crank then just torque the bolt down.
I will pass on putting my $500 ATI in the oven....bad thing to do with something that has rubber in it. Why are folks so frugal? Geeze you're wasting money trying to save money when you risk damaging parts.
You must have never used the real tool before. Trust me, there is a huge difference.
I will pass on putting my $500 ATI in the oven....bad thing to do with something that has rubber in it. Why are folks so frugal? Geeze you're wasting money trying to save money when you risk damaging parts.
I will pass on putting my $500 ATI in the oven....bad thing to do with something that has rubber in it. Why are folks so frugal? Geeze you're wasting money trying to save money when you risk damaging parts.
Also if you have installed the ati you should also know that you can install just the hub and ac pulley by themselves first, meaning if you were that paranoid you dont even have to get the rubber piece hot. Just heat the hub up and put it on with the ac pulley, let it cool then do the front pulley. I used the install tool many times and its worked great however heat takes any of those variables out of the equation because it slips right on and you feel it bottom out.
Wasting money is buying a 50 dollar install tool that looks reall neat when you can make one for less than 10 bucks that is just as safe and works every time. Or you can follow what the manufacturers recommend and heat it for free.
Last edited by redbird555; Mar 8, 2015 at 08:49 PM.
The real thing has a stronger rod and uses a bearing....like I said in another post, going cheap will likely cost you more money later when you damage something,. That home made tool is like using a longer bolt.
The real tool has a wrenching point to keep the rod from turning while another wrenching point with the bearing to draw it on....don't go cheap. This is a sure way to alleviate any possibility of screwing something up.
The real tool has a wrenching point to keep the rod from turning while another wrenching point with the bearing to draw it on....don't go cheap. This is a sure way to alleviate any possibility of screwing something up.
Totally forgot where using a stud with a nut is like using a longer bolt lol. Then what are the point of head or exhaust studs? Basically they're just like bolts right?
The ATI is 3 separate pieces and the hub is all allone and metal, but I was using that as a figure of speaking of wasting money. On the homemade tool, unless you hold the rod from turning while you draw the pulley on, youre putting stress on it. For someone who installs so many pulleys, why not use the real tool?
Using the proper tool it's not bad advice.....it's smarter based on all these " oops " post
Using the proper tool it's not bad advice.....it's smarter based on all these " oops " post
Slightly different, but I don't endorse the hawk tool anyways. I praised the Summit house brand which in my opinion is better.
FWIW, I don't need to be concerned on what you of other folks use. I just suggest and advise to use the tool I know works and no risk of damage. We all need to make that decision based on cost and acceptable risk.
The ATI is 3 separate pieces and the hub is all allone and metal, but I was using that as a figure of speaking of wasting money. On the homemade tool, unless you hold the rod from turning while you draw the pulley on, youre putting stress on it. For someone who installs so many pulleys, why not use the real tool?
Using the proper tool it's not bad advice.....it's smarter based on all these " oops " post
Using the proper tool it's not bad advice.....it's smarter based on all these " oops " post
Same thing on the stud it doesnt move once its in the hole. Again then how do you install head studs? You dont hold the stud, just torque it down. Its the EXACT same principle except a cylinder head puts more stress on the std since the head is clamping to the block. The balancer actually gives since its being pressed on, ie less stress. Here are ARP's instructions for their studs, no meniton of holding anything....http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-4317.pdf
God forbid you should use a $20 Harbor Freight torque wrench which was shown to be as accurate or more than other brands costing 10 times or more when Hot Rod Magazine tested them. It must not be a real tool either because it is cheap.
And to the OP, if you can't drill out the broken bolt you might call some machine shops and see if they can EDM it out. (Electric Discharge Machining) I've read here where it can be done without pulling the engine.
And to the OP, if you can't drill out the broken bolt you might call some machine shops and see if they can EDM it out. (Electric Discharge Machining) I've read here where it can be done without pulling the engine.