looking for a good baby cam
You'll probably be want a cam with a intake duration in the 222-224* (@.05" lift) range with the 3200 stall TC, and any around 0* overlap with sound noticeable, so you don't need more than a few degrees of positive overlap at most to get the sound you'd like. I'd want a IVC of right about 42 with your cam choice. Now as far as making it last stick with mild cam lobes and your valve train will last longer.
The true key to getting the right cam for you is going to be telling the sponsor who is going to eventually spec your cam what you honestly wanting from your cam choice. I do recommend going no larger than a 224/228 111lsa+1 cam, and stick with mild lobes.
The true key to getting the right cam for you is going to be telling the sponsor who is going to eventually spec your cam what you honestly wanting from your cam choice. I do recommend going no larger than a 224/228 111lsa+1 cam, and stick with mild lobes.
I don't know how to match a cam with a stall speed but I think this cam could be strong at 6400 rpm. It has only 6 degrees of overlap so it should be very streetable. It opens the intake valve at 4 degrees before TDC so it should have a good amount of lift by the time the piston starts sucking on the intake port. The exhaust closes 2 degrees after TDC so it should carry RPM while keeping reversion in check. The intake valve closes at 44 degrees so it gets a bit more fill than the 42* that a LS6 intake likes to have. It has good dynamic compression and good piston to valve clearance. The exhaust opens at 46 degrees so it squeezes more out of the power stroke but it's not enough to clear the chamber at high rpm. I suspect the intake charge would suffer contamination from exhaust gasses around 6600 to 6800 rpm. I think the power would drop fast after that and it would be a bad choice for nitrous.
Still, irocurpony8489 has a nice exhaust setup so this cam would be close to what he is looking for. It would sound "noticable" too.
What lift would be good for it ?
Still, irocurpony8489 has a nice exhaust setup so this cam would be close to what he is looking for. It would sound "noticable" too.
What lift would be good for it ?
Kip at Cam Motion is a firm believer in not over camming an engine, for what you're trying to do getting you something will be right up his alley. For instance he had my try out his "drop in" truck cam which is a tiny 205/210 cam meant to work with otherwise stock engine/trans/gears. But it still picked up 40rwhp/20rwtq with a low RPM peak (my shifts are set to 6000rpm) and a noticeable gain of throttle response/power from idle to redline.
In the past I've also used Geoff at EPS and you certainly can't go wrong there as well. Back when EPS was first becoming well known there were several accounts of smaller EPS cams running as well as larger grinds on older lobes while still being gentle on the valvetrain.
In the past I've also used Geoff at EPS and you certainly can't go wrong there as well. Back when EPS was first becoming well known there were several accounts of smaller EPS cams running as well as larger grinds on older lobes while still being gentle on the valvetrain.
......This is true tune can have an effect but laregly its in the overlap. The more you have the more power you make and the choppier it gets however anything over 4 degrees you start to have trade offs, and anythign over 8 is debatable to be a DD.
My official recommendation is something like a 226/230 113+2 on eps lobes. With 2 degrees of overlap it will drive pleasent but you'll know somethings there. The next steup up from that would be to grind it on a 112 lsa giving 4 degrees overlap. Or 230/234 on a 113+3 which gives 6 degrees. All those cams will make peak power around 6200 so a 6500 or a tad higher rpm shift point is pretty optimal.
My official recommendation is something like a 226/230 113+2 on eps lobes. With 2 degrees of overlap it will drive pleasent but you'll know somethings there. The next steup up from that would be to grind it on a 112 lsa giving 4 degrees overlap. Or 230/234 on a 113+3 which gives 6 degrees. All those cams will make peak power around 6200 so a 6500 or a tad higher rpm shift point is pretty optimal.
I was considering this same cam, but I just do not believe the results. Many others run the very same came. But with much lower numbers. I too needed something that would pass the emissions in California. In the end, I contacted Martin for a custom grind. Sadly, it's still waiting to go in
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Mar 23, 2015 at 03:37 PM.
Thank you Martin ! That means a lot coming from you !
228/228 111+1 .620"/.612" is what I'm thinking about running in my LS6/m6 RX7 . I was curious what you thought about the numbers but since I would have Kip cut it I thought it would be bad form to ask your opinion.
Now that I think about it, it would be a bad choice for irocurpony8489 . I hope he gives you a call.
228/228 111+1 .620"/.612" is what I'm thinking about running in my LS6/m6 RX7 . I was curious what you thought about the numbers but since I would have Kip cut it I thought it would be bad form to ask your opinion.
Now that I think about it, it would be a bad choice for irocurpony8489 . I hope he gives you a call.
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I forgot to mention i would like to keep my ls1 intake. I tried a ls6 intake in the past got one off ebay got broke in the shipping process was a pain in the *** sending it back and getting my money back. So unless i can get one local no ls6 intake for me. Also i could care less about dyno numbers looking for quarter mile times. Car runs 12.20's as it sits now would like a cam that would put me in the 11's no matter what the weather conditions are.
I forgot to mention i would like to keep my ls1 intake. I tried a ls6 intake in the past got one off ebay got broke in the shipping process was a pain in the *** sending it back and getting my money back. So unless i can get one local no ls6 intake for me. Also i could care less about dyno numbers looking for quarter mile times. Car runs 12.20's as it sits now would like a cam that would put me in the 11's no matter what the weather conditions are.
Whoever packaged it and allowed it to get broken is a plain fool. I've shipped probably 6 intakes and never had a single problem.
Thank you Martin ! That means a lot coming from you !
228/228 111+1 .620"/.612" is what I'm thinking about running in my LS6/m6 RX7 . I was curious what you thought about the numbers but since I would have Kip cut it I thought it would be bad form to ask your opinion.
Now that I think about it, it would be a bad choice for irocurpony8489 . I hope he gives you a call.
228/228 111+1 .620"/.612" is what I'm thinking about running in my LS6/m6 RX7 . I was curious what you thought about the numbers but since I would have Kip cut it I thought it would be bad form to ask your opinion.
Now that I think about it, it would be a bad choice for irocurpony8489 . I hope he gives you a call.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Wilmington, De
Kip at Cam Motion is a firm believer in not over camming an engine, for what you're trying to do getting you something will be right up his alley. For instance he had my try out his "drop in" truck cam which is a tiny 205/210 cam meant to work with otherwise stock engine/trans/gears. But it still picked up 40rwhp/20rwtq with a low RPM peak (my shifts are set to 6000rpm) and a noticeable gain of throttle response/power from idle to redline.
I've been thinking about a cam for my truck, and I don't want my mileage to plummet.
Detailed thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hp-22rwtq.html