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so I took the initiative to start my own head work and I'm breaking the silence
So bay that is for removing valveI had purchased a tool from ebay that is for removing valve springs.it only cost me about $24 I can't quite remember the name of the seller but it also comes with a air hose to keep the valves in place should it still remain on the engine.
at this time I would like to let you guys know thatI am already well into modifying these cylinder heads as we speak now.here are some more pictures of progress I have a lot to post so be prepared.
this stuff that you see me using is made from zep it is basically industrialize purple chain and engine degreaser.it's a couple of ways you can go about using this stuff .I normally just poured inside of my water bottle of any sort something you use from the past as long as it has a squeeze nozzle and what you're basically going to do was just spray the stuff on there spread anywhere on the head it really doesn't matter a lot of peo to spray the stuff off of it to get the rest of the dirt
my heafs came out okay as far as them being clean.however there was still some carbon and dirt buildup in my intake and exhaust ports.it's nothing that I wire brush in a flat screwdriver and a little atf fluid cant fix.
That's the tool I was planning to buy; some people here call it, "Tim's Tool". Did it work well for you ? Keep the pics coming. Any mistakes you make, don't hide them from us. We learn more from our mistakes than our successes.
actually the device works pretty good it's very simple to use the only downside is you have to take one spring down at a time before the price I really can't complain
I was able to remove the little bump that sits in the inaket track.I will admit it is hard to see because I don't have a highlighted or anything like that but if you were to look to the far upper right when you see a light shade of aluminum that's where been removed you have to go slow and gentle in that area.a lot of people suggest not digging too deep into the fuel bowl so at this point I'm just trying to be consistent as possible.
this is the approach I took to remove that bump in the intake port the post.it is a little tricky only because you have limited space to work with and you have to be extremely sturdy is possible with your hands and you have to make sure that your die grinder doesn't rub the walls of the intake port track is well it can ruin the shape.
there is like a slight dent at the top part of the v shape in the beginning of the intake port. It looks like a partial v trying to connect. Here i just move the deburr bit back and forth on the lines of the v shape to match up the floor level so they can be as even as possible,with the top part of the intake port.be patient and take your time here Dont apply a lot of pressure to the bit.remember you don't want to reshape the shape of the intake entrance Shape.just smooth hand motions.
I am going to try my best to describe to you how to go about porting out the fuel bowl the first and foremost important thing to keep in mind. is not to rush in this area take your time and look at what you're doing. this is broken down into three different colors to really show and illustrate where to really be very cautious at and where to really take your time around the valve guide.
at the very top tip of the swirl ramp.this is the area where you would start to slowly level and take out this swirl ramp .this can be accomplished by moving deburr bits left and right consistently and firm as if you were coloring in a coloring book. take it down slowly as you see material disappear. don't be afraid to let off the ramp if your hands get tired just remember where you left off at and follow the lines ans be steady.
now once you get around the valve guide. you will see the different colors that I have marked on the guide. the darker the color the more you have to concentrate and be extremely careful. for the simple fact the port gets more shallower and shallower .which means you really have to take your time where the red areas are shown in the picture .you stand a huge chance of damaging the port by taking out too much material .creating an unwanted hole to a water passage.this is not what you want because at this point your head is no good and your work went to trash.
break out the sandpaper and get to work make sure is 80 grit.sand around the whole entire intake port particularly in the fuel bowl and smooth down that Ridge as much as possible. leave no sharp edges also make sure everything is smooth out
Im getting there ,but far from done.I still have to do the short turn radius.next lower the floor just a little bit as well. Then a final port clean before I move on to the exhaust ports
Here's some kinda rough work a friend and I did together. There is a dab of weld behind the valve guide so we could end up with a more smooth transition around it. All cutting was done with a burr meant for iron(less aggressive on aluminum) dipped in ATF every few minutes (NO clogging) then either left rough like most of the intake port or smoothed with an 80 grit roll. All flow numbers were with stock 2.0/1.55 valves, no valve job, no flow form on the intake and no tube on the exhaust port so I think all those things would pick up flow a fair amount. We are considering filling the floor in with clay at first so see if we pick up anything and then epoxy if the flow numbers are there. This is a stock 317 head so it has LS6 style ports. What do you guys think?
Oh and the intake port is 1.23 inches wide. We kinda went nuts and ran into the pushrod hole a bit but this is just a practice head so see how far we can go. It's gonna get cut up after we are done with flowbenching it to see how close we are in some areas. Everybody said we couldn't go this deep into the bowl areas but no sign of the water jacket yet.
Oh and the intake port is 1.23 inches wide. We kinda went nuts and ran into the pushrod hole a bit but this is just a practice head so see how far we can go. It's gonna get cut up after we are done with flowbenching it to see how close we are in some areas. Everybody said we couldn't go this deep into the bowl areas but no sign of the water jacket yet.
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