the best way to approach this area as for removal of the hump. thats close to the fuel bowl opening.is to use 60 grid sandpaper. make sure you have your die grinder at a low speed first. so that way you can feel around that particular area where that hump. to gradually remove the material.if you use a deburr bit like I did make sure your deburr bit is lubed with ATF fluid.make sure that you're wearing glasses get as close as you can with a flashlight as you shine it in the port or have plenty lighting around.so you can see be extremely consisted with the deburr and wave it around on the hump 4 to 5 seconds. then pull back then go back in you can do this in a left to righ and down or an up and down pattern or even a circular motion once you have a feel for the port.feel each time that you do this. you can having extremely uneven deep spots like I did .also don't be afraid to take a minute to two minute breaks to feel around with a flat tip screwdriver. study it before you go back into the port so you can keep your transition smooth.

 

Oh my, , , i would not touch shortsides at all. Good radius there works best what i know of porting.

 

okay that's real good to know but can you explain why that's one area that is hard to find information on.

 

I did the best that I could making the best out of this situation. so its smooth out quite a bitit's not such a huge deep gash in it like before.so the port is savedthe other ports will be mirrored off this one in port. consistency and stay the same

 

Im no expert, but ideally you want air come to the valve as straight as possible without any sharp turns before valve seat area so, bigger radius in shortside makes less turbulence.

Fast search i found this ford pic, same rules though.

http://www.351c.net/archive/tech/tec...ting-4v-heads/

 

good stuff

 

ultimately I have found a better approach as far as shaping the cut back and the floor.in this picture that you see. what I've done and I'm sure I have explained that in the steps ahead before this post.the only thing major that's different. is you have to make sure that's your deburr bit is somewhat visible ,for you to see exactly what you're doing. that's something that you have to figure out yourself how to do and be comfortable myself when I do it I stand up.

 

this is probably a 45 degree angle. the highest you can make your debur bit pivot at this angle.you can't see it in this picture .but you have to kind of lean back to see exactly where your debur bit is hitting and not hitting.

 

I found that if you come back and go over your port at this angle. you can really make a very smooth transition to the points away you really don't need to sand.80 grit sandpaper will go a long ways with this .you are only able to come at this angle once you have already knocked down some of the material from the 45 degree angle. shown in the previous picture .trying to come at this angle at first as a starting point is extremely difficult.If not damn near impossible you can mess up your deburr bit .as well as your Grinder because it will bind up and not spin.

 

Your guide boss looks nice. What are you going to use to measure/cc your ports. For your 4.8, you wanted to stay small right ?

 

thank you very much took a lot of time to get those valve guys to look like that.to answer your question I will say yes.you do want to stay on a relatively small side. as far as measuring my ports I plan on getting my heads flow tested.hopefully they can managed to measure the chambers.that one of the biggest challenge I'm facing. is fine in the shop that would do it around my way .unfortunately I live in a small *** town literally like Smallville so.

 

just finished polishing the combustion chamber .hopefully this will deflect and prevent a lot of the carbon buildup.that is associated with stock heads.I managed to polish my Chambers with a polishing bit .its kind of like a SOS pad but it works.

 

What would you consider a success ? You already have some success, you did not hit water. You learned something. You had fun.
Maybe you should get some of those Ebay head studs and cheap MLS gaskets, lap in the valves and throw them on. Get a trap speed before and after and see how you did that way ?

 

You have to know what you're porting why you're porting design of the port your torque shape in the head Not just open it up big get outta here Stop watching YouTube pick up a book and read

 

Carmine, "Reviver of Old Threads".....