another street able cam post.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Beaufort, sc
another street able cam post. I currently have a 99 camaro z28 a4 with a stock ls1 it has 109,000 on it. I'm looking for a very street friendly 12 sec build some where around 400 whp. I know I will be using 243 heads and a stock ls6 intake. My overall goal is to have a very reliable motor easy on the valvetrain. I know I'll be replacing oil pump and timing chain So what can do you recomend and is there any thing else I should redo on the lower.
First thoughts were the hot cam but so many insist it is out dated. I plan on redoing the heads I get.
Current mods
K&n "cold air" yes I know
Lt headers
Flow master's
Recon touqre converter
Hughes red kvlar clutches
Shift kit unknown brand
2_point wld in SFC
Stb unknown brand
Ploy mount BMR parts... Everything but front lca all non adjustable stock ride height.
Torque arm relocation
Tunnel brace drive safe loop
3.73 rear end
17/8.5and -9.5 with 285 in the rear
Waiting for my strt shocks.
Thanks for any advice.
First thoughts were the hot cam but so many insist it is out dated. I plan on redoing the heads I get.
Current mods
K&n "cold air" yes I know
Lt headers
Flow master's
Recon touqre converter
Hughes red kvlar clutches
Shift kit unknown brand
2_point wld in SFC
Stb unknown brand
Ploy mount BMR parts... Everything but front lca all non adjustable stock ride height.
Torque arm relocation
Tunnel brace drive safe loop
3.73 rear end
17/8.5and -9.5 with 285 in the rear
Waiting for my strt shocks.
Thanks for any advice.
Last edited by miles99z28; Mar 30, 2015 at 02:28 PM.
You should be able to go low 12's to high 11's with just bolt-on's. They key is keeping the car light and not adding unnecessary weight, also rotational weight is huge!!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Beaufort, sc
I'm a newbie... Need advice
What pushrods to buy with 243 ls6 head
What lifter/ length do I need to measure if so how
Do I need to do the trunion bearing
How do I make sure my valves are the sodium filled ones.
Wtf is a tray
What pushrods to buy with 243 ls6 head
What lifter/ length do I need to measure if so how
Do I need to do the trunion bearing
How do I make sure my valves are the sodium filled ones.
Wtf is a tray
Last edited by miles99z28; Mar 31, 2015 at 03:18 PM.
Just like should be recommended in every other cam thread (which seems to be getting even more common): Call a sponsor...don't rely on someone who may or may not know squat about valve events.
You need an adjustable pushrod length tool to check for pushrods. Lifters do not really vary in length.
Trunions are optional, good idea but not required.
Weigh the valves and do a search for weights to compare them to.
The tray holds the lifters in the block so they can't spin. LS2 lifter trays are cheap and worth doing while you're in there.
You need an adjustable pushrod length tool to check for pushrods. Lifters do not really vary in length.
Trunions are optional, good idea but not required.
Weigh the valves and do a search for weights to compare them to.
The tray holds the lifters in the block so they can't spin. LS2 lifter trays are cheap and worth doing while you're in there.
Not really sure that you are including in the 1500 figure so I'll just break it down with all the necessities and you go from there. Springs will depend on cam choice btw.
Pushrods ($100)
Beehive Valve Springs ($180)
Dual Valve Springs ($300)
Cam ($450, yes there ones for $399 but pay the $450 and get one with 8620 steel)
243 Heads ($350-450)
Head gaskets ($50 for stock $175 for .040 cometic)
Tune (~$450)
Timing Set ($50)
Oil Pump (~$125)
Lifter trays ($30)
Morel 5315 lifters ($200)
That's more or less the bare min for a cam swap. Yes you can save maybe 100-200 off that list with cheaper parts but the trade-offs in security arent worth it imo.
Pushrods ($100)
Beehive Valve Springs ($180)
Dual Valve Springs ($300)
Cam ($450, yes there ones for $399 but pay the $450 and get one with 8620 steel)
243 Heads ($350-450)
Head gaskets ($50 for stock $175 for .040 cometic)
Tune (~$450)
Timing Set ($50)
Oil Pump (~$125)
Lifter trays ($30)
Morel 5315 lifters ($200)
That's more or less the bare min for a cam swap. Yes you can save maybe 100-200 off that list with cheaper parts but the trade-offs in security arent worth it imo.
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
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From: Syracuse, NY
I also own a 1999 Z28 with a stock LS1 with 38,000 mi. I've heard the least expensive way to add serious HP is to install headers and a new cam. The headers I've picked out are shorty ( I live in NY so any exhaust mods must be "environmentally friendly") ceramic coated stainless steel. I have no idea what cam to get. My goal is to increase power at the low to mid range for quicker 0-60 times, without making it too loud, and without killing the gas mileage. Can anyone recommend a cam that can do all this (not sure what duration, etc. I need to meet my goal)? And how much would it cost to tune the engine after these mods?
Thanks,
Rick
Thanks,
Rick
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Here's a couple of cams the come to mind all with mild cam lobes that'll be easy on the valve train.
03-Titan III, 224/228 114lsa+4, 0* overlap with a IVC of 41*
http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan3-1
04-Titan IV, 227/232 113lsa+4, 3.5* overlap with a IVC of 42.5*
http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan4
LS 5.7 Stage 4, 228/232 114lsa+4, 2* overlap with a IVC of 44*
http://store.cammotion.com/57-ls1-34...-compression-4
Contact Kip, at Cam Motion http://www.cammotion.com/contact.php
I'd also go with at least a 3200 stall TC, but preferably a 3600 stall TC.
03-Titan III, 224/228 114lsa+4, 0* overlap with a IVC of 41*
http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan3-1
04-Titan IV, 227/232 113lsa+4, 3.5* overlap with a IVC of 42.5*
http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan4
LS 5.7 Stage 4, 228/232 114lsa+4, 2* overlap with a IVC of 44*
http://store.cammotion.com/57-ls1-34...-compression-4
Contact Kip, at Cam Motion http://www.cammotion.com/contact.php
I'd also go with at least a 3200 stall TC, but preferably a 3600 stall TC.
Get the 243's ported and run as is. Should run high 11's to low 12's. Can't beat the stock cam in drivebility. Could go with a .040 gasket and slight mill while your at it to bump the compression.
