Rob WS6

iTrader: (16)

As far as the timing goes, if there is no knock retard, then it's not too much timing. Each motor is slightly different, if your motor is happy with 27 degrees and doesn't have any retard, then it's fine.

1 Slow WS6

iTrader: (1)

I take it the headers are 1 3/4? If so with the extra overlap on a stock head the exhaust port may be getting jammed up with the added air flow. Just an idea, what do you guys think?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Did you have any trap times on your old set up? your earlier posts said it feels faster. Comparison trap times would settle the whole thing.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I think that he would absolutely gain power with 1-7/8 but lots of guys run 1.75 and run good times. You also have to remember at 4600 ft of altitude the dyno numbers arent going to be strong. Where was the old dyno taken? Take that car down to sea level and get it dyno'd lol.

I think it would be very interesting to slap an ls6 or fast on that car and see what happens or hell even an ls1 and see if you lose power. I have heard so many mixed reviews on the bbk I personally think the ls6 is better than the bbk but that just mo. You have to remember when looking at magazine tests they are most likely sponsored by BBK so they wll do anything to make the product look good. I'm not saying thats what happened but its food for thought. Dyno results on here dont show much difference between them.

The 5800 rpm peak is a little low but then again its on a very tight lsa so that will cause an earlier peak than normal. I'd call up the person who spec'd the cam and ask them where they think it should peak. Also 27 degrees of timing isn't hurting you I dont think. The car may be able to take 29 fine but theres usually no power left really after 26 with a stock type build.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

I really think its a waste to change anything before you run the car at the track. You are comparing the car on 2 different dynos. Calling out your tuner isn't going to help you either. You'd think he kept bumping up the timing until it didn't gain anymore power...

If it were me I'd run it at the track before I threw anymore money at it.

Good Luck

Jarren_b

The reason I mentioned that is because my old setup with my smaller cam ect was at 29 degrees with no knock.. Hell I was only pulling 3 degrees with my 125 shot and still wasnt knocking so idk why he would take 2 degrees away for nothing. not much has changed except for a slightly larger cam

Jarren_b

Good to know on the timing. Ive seen other comparisons here on tech and it seems the BBK isnt much better than the ls6, only outflows it by a few Hp.

I had an ls6 previously but I changed to the BBK because i made money on the deal and I liked the fact that the bottom comes off and I figured a metal intake wouldnt be a bad idea since I was running spray at that time.. Either way, It should flow the same or slightly better than an ls6. I talked to PatG, he spec'd the cam and he agreed my power is falling off too early and my graph looks like im running on 7 cylinders. It does feel faster after installing the shorter pushrods (I was possibly hanging the valves open with the 7.450 I had installed).

Jarren_b

I never went to the track with my old setup. my clutch wasnt up to the task

Jarren_b

Im just going to throw in a little 100 octane and tell the tuner to check the timing again and see if I can trick him into adding a degree or too haha

1 Slow WS6

iTrader: (1)

Hanging valves will do that, LOL

gtotoocool1

iTrader: (6)

I think your issue is mechanical,not tuning.if the valves were hanging open due to the longer pushrods, I would think it would hurt power over the entire range.have you checked the plugs/plug wires,etc.?sometimes it's the simple things that kick you in the ***.
how about the valve springs,are they at the proper installed height?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

splashing 100 octane in the motor may allow you to run more timing but 2 degrees wont lose you 35hp,not only that but when you put 93 back in you may be working knock sensors over time trying to pull timing back out for spark knock. just because a few peoples cars can get away with 29 certainly doesnt mean all can. i agree on the issue being mechanical not tuning.

was the original 400whp dyno done at the same altitude

Jarren_b

Yes it was done at the same altitude and I was joking about the octane thing.. I only have 91 in my area by the way.

Jarren_b

Springs are at proper height. Also had them tested and they are good to go.

Plugs and wires are brand new. TR55IX.

Im really hoping that it was just the pushrods. I was going to do another compression test and see if my shorter pushrods increased my cranking compression.

but I have a question on that. I cant find a straight answer on a few things when it comes to a comp test

When I did it the motor was completely cold. In fact it hadnt been ran in a week so there wasnt any oil in the cylinder either. the block was probably only 50 degrees when I did it.

Should the motor be warm atleast to some extent? should you put any oil in the cylinder?

When the lifters were replaced I had the heads checked, the checked the valves for leaks ect.. so I dont think thats the problem

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Why are you comparing the setups on different dynos? Go back to the original dyno if you want to know what really happened.

Btw, 29 degrees was probably too much timing. What the dyno reads and what you see in reality on the street are very different. Actual load on the street stresses the motor differently than a dyno - especially an inertia dyno. 27 degrees is probably better for the life of the motor. No sense in trying to eek out 5HP at the expense of the motor.

Brian Tooley Racing

iTrader: (13)

In back to back dyno testing, we've seen less exhaust lift make more power everywhere. We've also have seen wider split from intake to exhaust perform better, especially with stock heads.

It would be nice to see it put on the original dyno for sure.

Jarren_b

That would explain exactly the specs on the Stage 2 na cam that I had then...

I made the change to fix my valvetrain noise, not have to use 2 different length pushrods and to pick up power. Its a good thing I pulled it too cause I must have had a soft core.. one of the lobes looked like the lifter got burned into it and it only had 10k on it.. I wont be using a comp core ever again.

Going back to the original dyno isnt an option because its in a different state.

can anyone shed some light on the best way to do a compression test for when I check it a second time?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I've always done them cold for safety and comfort. if you're thinking that the rings were not oiled, you could start it, kill it, then pull the pump fuse and test it.

This is going to sound so unscientific, but if it honestly feels faster, it probably is. You could take it to the track, get a trap time, and run it through a calculator.

To be perfectly frank, I think your first dyno was optimistic by quite a bit. It was basically cam only, stock intake, etc, and 400RWHP? How many FAST 102, aftermarket or ported heads, cam, headers, big throttle body set ups you see on here with 430-450 RWHP? The improved heads, intake upgrade, headers, and tune should be worth more than ONLY 30-50 HP over your cam only set up.

Jarren_b

I do agree with the last one being optimistic by about 30hp I would say. but we cal all agree that my new number is low. how many Torquer v2 cams are 390+ with ls6 intake and similar mods. If I could just be in the 390 range I wouldnt have ever even started this thread haha. Im hoping to be around 430 with heads

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Yep, and I do agree 370 seems low with the BBK and long tubes and that cam. That dyno was done with the longer pushrods, though. If it feels faster, might be worth another dyno run, and you might be close to 390. I also think 430 with the heads done is perfectly realistic.

I'm still stumped as to why it dropped off so fast at the high end. i'd expect it to carry better. I can't remember, but are you still on stock injectors? Did you already mention your injector duty cycle? In fact, there is a way to somewhat confirm the dyno - take the injector size and duty cycle and run it through a horsepower calculator. If you have stock injectors at 90% duty cycle, that's about 400 RWHP, FWIW