Ill keep an eye out for your results, I think you picked a really awesome combo.

 

Well I'm back together, here is a short video prior to going to the dyno.
Made 408 tq and 403 hp on superflow dyno, was hoping for more

 

Before you get worried about those numbers, go run it at the track. That will be the true indicator.

 

car sounds great! The only thing that bugs me about those numbers is typically a cammed ls1 is going to make a higher hp number than torque, and you're the other way around. So what rpm was the peak hp? It should be around 6300 rpm. If it was lower, that would indicate something blocking airflow on intake or exhaust side

 

stalled auto...I am guessing these are unlocked numbers and the tq spike from the hit is giving the high tq number.

 

We had the rev limiter set at 6200 RPM to be on the safe side. Ill have to look again, I was wondering if I was still making power when I hit the limiter.

 

limiter at 6200? I have my limiter set at 7200...you might as well go back to the stock cam if that is all the higher you are going to rev that thing.

 

I wouldn't chase/worry about dyno numbers and I tell you why.
- Every dyno is different... some very stingy.
- reason #2... It's just a dyno tool to help your tuner.
- Reason #3.... take the car to track and your mph will tell the real story on your car performance.
- Reason #4... automatic/stalled cars ALWAYS read a lower rear wheel power number vs a standard.
Nice car by the way and a great cam choice.

 

Stock short block, Morel 5315 lifters, Manton pushrods, .660 lift springs, trunion upgrade. Where should the rev limit be?

 

7300. Easy. Definitely let off early. At the track you want to shift way past peak.

 

Pretty sure the N/A rule is eight percent past peak so if the long runner intake combined with an IVC of 43-44 degrees ABDC peaks @ 6300; a good shift point is right in the 6800-7000 range assuming a stable valve train is in order

 

72-7300rpm should be the limiter...and you should be shifting it around 68-6900rpm.

 

What diameter did you go with on the pushrods?

 

11/32"

 

Thanks. That's what I was trying to say

 

As others have said, all dynos read a little different so don't get too wrapped up on the numbers. Trap speed at the track will be a more true indicator of power. If you are looking for more power a Fast intake/throttle body would probably be worth 15-20HP.

I have a very similar combo that made 435HP/398 ft/lbs(dyno jet). My peak HP occured at about 6500rpm so there is probably more power to be found if you rev yours higher. My combo: Stock bottom end LS1 with AI 226 heads, 228/232 .625/.625 112lsa cam, 1 3/4 LT headers, Fast 92mm intake, NW 92mm throttle body, FTI 3200 stall converter, Strange 12 bolt w/ 3.42 gears

 

01ssreda4 - Are you still running the Yank ss4k stall? Liking it? Every run any Nitrous through it? Thanks, TB

 

Agreed 100%.

Yes, best 60ft to date is the high 1.4x range on motor. No, never shot nitrous.

 

What suspension you running? Vikings? You also said that's with a similar cam to the Titan 4 and some AI 243/799 heads? Looks like a hell of a set up.. looking at your pics makes me want to ditch my Eibach and bilsteins bad.. I added a short torque arm and plan on removing my sway bar in hopes of hitting a 1.6-1.7 60ft this year.. hard to say with horrible weight transfer though..

Also to hit that high 1.4 are you brake stalling or hitting it off idle?

 

My memory is somewhat foggy of exact details but I did cut like 1.52 on bilstiens. The 1.4x was on vikings. Understand though the vikings have lots of advantages other then just raw numbers, setting ride height, adjusting to track conditions, different rear tire types, or wanting better settings for cruising around town. Also they give you room to grow and get faster. My cam was a shelf grind very similar to the titan4 and is 228/232 .613/.613 113+4 or something to that effect. Yes AI heads and leave off idle or 1k rpms. Never did well loading up on the converter, seemed to hurt weight transfer.