moespeeds

So I finally got all my parts back from the machine shop, and last night started building my LS1 "upgraded tour" motor for my ASA stock car. It had been a long day at work by the time I got out to the shop to start working, but I was eager to begin. Basically all I got done last night was cleaning the block/cylinders, installed the Calico Coated Bearings, and got the crank in and GM cap bolts torqued down. Then last night at 1 AM I wake up and realize that for whatever reason, I had wiped a little bit of 30 wt oil under the bearings, top and bottom. I don't know why this detail popped into my head, or even why I did it, but I did. I started looking through all my LS1 books and videos, and every single one says to install bearings dry. I thoroughly cleaned everything, but dipped my finger in oil and wiped it under each bearing before install.

So today I called 2 experienced engine builder buddies, and both told me I had nothing to worry about, and it was definitely not worth pulling out and tossing $130 worth of TTY bolts and starting over. So am I just being paranoid? Could an oil film have an effect on clearances? My clearances were right in the middle of the acceptable range (can't remember off the top of my head). I know I'm probably gonna get all kinds of answers here, but should I rip this thing back apart, or leave it be?

RockinWs6

If the crank spins freely I say I'd let it be. The idea is you added less clearance to the bearings using oil behind them, but once its running it won't matter as long as it spins freely now. If its hard to turn or frees like its dragging as you turn it of course pull it back apart.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

I've been told that if you get ANYTHING under those bearings they will spin. Guy was a teacher and he knew his **** extremely well, but he could've just been stressing doing things "by the book". Maybe you'll be fine the way they are, maybe you won't. I'm honestly not sure what I would do in your situation. Yeah having to buy $130 worth of new bolts sucks but I might prefer that over building a whole engine, putting it in the car, and cranking it up just to have it spin a bearing right off the bat. Then you'd be out a lot more than $130. Sorry man, that sucks, but it's a learning experience for next time.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I've got a thread in the Gen IV Internals section concerning LS7 rods, a guy there (Aussie) says they coat the backs of the rod bearings with lanolin to prevent galvanic action...