JayLS1-327

iTrader: (2)

Want answers to any oil question ? Search under the username of Patman.

Another_User

I don't burn a drop of oil. I switched to Mobil 1 5w30 at about 20k miles, and I am sitting at 34k now. When I did my cam swap everything looked nice, hardly any wear. I have heard that you can switch back to regular oil. The method I heard is to first run an oil change and do 50/50 synthetic and regular oil, followed the next oil change with straight regular oil.

zombie1

I have used 5-30 mobile 1 in my z24 until I traded it for my z28, and still used mobile 1 5-30w. Two months ago I switched to the german made syntec 0-40w (i believe) under the advice of patman. I kid you not my oil pressure went up and I really think my piston slap got quieter, and I seem to run smoother. Maybe I going crazy but it's the truth. I don't seem to burn 1 quart between oil changes like I used to. Just my .02

02blackws679ta

where do you find that oil?
do they sell it at normal places or do you have to order it?

zombie1

Auto Zone has it, I don't know who else has it. But it's in a black bottle and on the back of the bottle it says "Made in Germany" make sure it says that. And if you change the oil in direct sunlight when you look in the bottle under the sun the oil is green. BRIGHT GREEN!, When I first changed it I thought somebody put coolant in the bottle!

Orange Peel

iTrader: (20)

That's the **** I am going to start using, if I don't like it, I will go to the Mobil 1 0w40.

02blackws679ta

being that its a 40 weight, that wont make any difference?
and since its 0, does that mean its even thinner than 5 and 10?

Patman

The German made Castrol 0w30 is awesome stuff, I highly recommend it.

On the topic of Royal Purple, I'm not a fan of their 5w30 or 10w30 in the LS1, however their Racing 41 version is a perfect fit in the LS1 in warm weather.

Here is a quick list of the oils I like for the LT1 and LS1:

German Castrol 0w30
Amsoil 5w30, 0w30, 10w40
Redline 5w30, 5w40, 10w40
Mobil 1 5w40, 0w40
Royal Purple Racing 41

Also, Kendall 5w40 has recently shown very good oil analysis results in an LS1, and Castrol's 5w40 Syntec would also probably work very well.

popocamaro2

iTrader: (14)

Stick with the Mobil 1 think its the best

Patman

The second number in an oil's viscosity is it's weight at 100c. To be a 30, it has to be in the range of 9.3 cst to 12.5 cst. To be a 40 it has to be between 12.5 to 16.3.

The first number indicates how well it flows in the cold. A 0w oil will outflow a 5w oil and a 5w oil will outflow a 10w oil. So the 0w oils will provide quicker lubrication on startup in cool weather. And generally speaking, a 0w oil is better built since it needs a better base oil in order to flow that well. The wave of the future is 0w oils now. You'll see a lot of new cars working very well running 0w20 (new Hondas, Mazdas and Fords work well with this oil!) and you'll see more 0w30 and 0w40 oils coming out in the future too.

Patman

It's not though. Their 5w30 and 10w30 are formulated on the low end of the 30wt range, so a hard driven LS1 will show more engine wear in oil analysis with this viscosity. Mobil 1's 0w40 or 5w40 are better choices.

I'm not saying you can't get long engine life with M1 5w30/10w30, however your chances are much better with something thicker. The harder you drive, the more you need something more robust.

DANSLS1GTO

Hey Patman - do you have any recommendations staying with dino oil - or do you think the LS1's are just much better suited for synth's? I'm at 4k miles, and was planning on keeping dino oil in for the warranty length (36000 miles) just because of the simplicity of having the dealership do oil changes and know that it's correctly documented just in case there are warranty issues (knock on wood). If / when I switch to synthetic's I'll do the changes myself. Also I know the cost of synth's can be offset by longer times between changes - but at least for my warranty period that scares me just a bit.
Dan

Patman

Dan, I do prefer synthetics, however if someone wants to save money there are some good choices in dinos or blends. I like Castrol GTX 10w40, or Pennzoil 10w40. Also, the high mileage oils are pretty good too, such as GTX HM or Pennzoil HM. Castrol Syntec Blend 10w30 is also pretty good. Stay away from 5w30 dino oils, they thin out far too easily.

zombie1

sorry guys I thought 0-40w for the german syntec. Patman is right again it's 0-30. Thanks Patman!

WS6 #3392

I'm going to use the Castrol German made 0w30. My question is how will the 0 weight hold up when the temps are getting around warmer out side? I like to race it about twice a month.

Patman

It will hold up just fine. Keep in mind this is not a thin oil. At operating temperature it's thicker than most 5w30 and 10w30 oils, it's almost a 40wt oil actually. Don't let the 0w part scare you into thinking it's thin, this number simply means it flows incredibly well in extreme cold, it doesn't mean the oil is thin at operating temp.

WS6 #3392

Thanks Patman.

Lswonder

I use amsoil 100% synthetic. cost lest than redline and roil purple. last 25,000 miles. need i say more

Patman

It won't last 25,000 miles in an LS1, but under ideal conditions in some other types of vehicles it can. It's never wise to try that kind of oil change interval without doing oil analysis though. A lot of engines simply beat up the oil too much for it to go 25k (such as the Toyota 3.0 V6 which will turn dino oil into sludge by 4000 miles)

Lswonder

im only gonna run mine for 15,000 with it