Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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whats the *best* oil to use?

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Old 06-12-2004, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman
It won't last 25,000 miles in an LS1, but under ideal conditions in some other types of vehicles it can. It's never wise to try that kind of oil change interval without doing oil analysis though. A lot of engines simply beat up the oil too much for it to go 25k (such as the Toyota 3.0 V6 which will turn dino oil into sludge by 4000 miles)
4000 miles is slightly exagerated, but they do sludge easy when not maintained, come on 15-30,000 miles between oil changes would sludge the oil and ruin the cylinders on any engine. Yes in the real world morons go 10,000 miles or more between a LOF.

People think cause its 2004 and a Toyota it should be able to change the oil itself! Course Toyota has now employed the maintanace light for 2004 vehicles.
Old 06-13-2004, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Lswonder
im only gonna run mine for 15,000 with it
In my opinion, any time you go beyond 10,000 miles with an oil, you should do an oil analysis to make sure it's ok. Sometimes it's not an issue with the oil but with the engine itself. If you've got a leak allowing more dirt into the engine, or if you've got a leaky injector putting fuel into the oil, or any number of other mechanical problems, then you wouldn't be safe going to 15,000 miles until you've addressed those problems. And oil analysis will also detect other problems such as coolant leaks too.
Old 06-13-2004, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by fullfloatingHD
4000 miles is slightly exagerated, but they do sludge easy when not maintained,
True, it's a slight exageration there, as not all conditions will cause it to sludge up that fast, but it's not uncommon either. Under certain conditions a Toyota 3.0 V6 can easily sludge up it's oil in 4000 miles. Even with a good synthetic they can sludge up. Someone tried running Amsoil for 25k in their Toyota and only made it to 17k before the oil sludged up so badly that the motor blew. It's not the oil's fault, these engines simply chew up the oil. It's especially bad in the Sienna, where it's engine location (under the front seats) makes it run hotter.
Old 06-13-2004, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman
Dan, I do prefer synthetics, however if someone wants to save money there are some good choices in dinos or blends. I like Castrol GTX 10w40, or Pennzoil 10w40. Also, the high mileage oils are pretty good too, such as GTX HM or Pennzoil HM. Castrol Syntec Blend 10w30 is also pretty good. Stay away from 5w30 dino oils, they thin out far too easily.
I run the Castrol GTX 10w40, changed every 3500 miles. It's really good stuff.

Patman, as an aside, is there ANY info that can ge gleamed by how the oil looks when it's drained, i.e. if it's blacker than "X" oil with the same amount of miles, engine, etc
Old 06-13-2004, 03:29 PM
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oil being as easy as it is to change and cheap also. Why would anyone take that kind of chance with 15000 miles?
Old 06-13-2004, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tiger2o69
oil being as easy as it is to change and cheap also. Why would anyone take that kind of chance with 15000 miles?
thats what im wondering...he just said it was cheaper than the other 2, but yet will stretch it out as long as possible
Old 06-13-2004, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman
True, it's a slight exageration there, as not all conditions will cause it to sludge up that fast, but it's not uncommon either. Under certain conditions a Toyota 3.0 V6 can easily sludge up it's oil in 4000 miles. Even with a good synthetic they can sludge up. Someone tried running Amsoil for 25k in their Toyota and only made it to 17k before the oil sludged up so badly that the motor blew. It's not the oil's fault, these engines simply chew up the oil. It's especially bad in the Sienna, where it's engine location (under the front seats) makes it run hotter.
The engine isn't under the seats its front engines (the belated previa was under the front seats) The siennas engine is tucked under a cowl, and yes for many factors the 1MZ-FE is hard on oil. However I have never seen a well maintained V6 toyota get a sludge engine, most sludge motors have a jiffy lube filter on them. But don't worry Toyota has made a "special policy adjustment" for sludge issue that give the motor some intergalactic extended warranty like 10 years 100,000 miles mind you this isn't like the warrantys you get at mitsubishi or dodge, this warranty has no duductable. Count on toyota to give the biggest warranty ever, I just did a warranty muffler on an 86 corolla last week no other company has a warranty like toyota.
Old 06-14-2004, 07:05 AM
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Hey Patman......how long can you keep that 0w-30 German oil in an LS1 before you gotta change it out?
Old 06-14-2004, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
I run the Castrol GTX 10w40, changed every 3500 miles. It's really good stuff.

Patman, as an aside, is there ANY info that can ge gleamed by how the oil looks when it's drained, i.e. if it's blacker than "X" oil with the same amount of miles, engine, etc
Honestly, just looking at an oil won't tell you too much. The only way to know for sure how it's condition is, is to get it analyzed. My oil comes out dark in my Firebird, but yet the analysis results always show very little wear and that the oil could go a lot longer still.

As to the question about how long GC 0w30 can go for, I'm not entirely sure but I've run it as long as 6200 miles in my car, and 6900 miles in my sister's old Civic and in both cases it showed a lot of life left in it. In a good engine I see no problem with it going well beyond 10,000 miles.
Old 06-14-2004, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by fullfloatingHD
The engine isn't under the seats its front engines (the belated previa was under the front seats) The siennas engine is tucked under a cowl, and yes for many factors the 1MZ-FE is hard on oil. However I have never seen a well maintained V6 toyota get a sludge engine, most sludge motors have a jiffy lube filter on them. But don't worry Toyota has made a "special policy adjustment" for sludge issue that give the motor some intergalactic extended warranty like 10 years 100,000 miles mind you this isn't like the warrantys you get at mitsubishi or dodge, this warranty has no duductable. Count on toyota to give the biggest warranty ever, I just did a warranty muffler on an 86 corolla last week no other company has a warranty like toyota.
I had a Toyota Junkolara with the 3.0 V6. It was a total lemon. Never own another Toyota. Also Toyota service and warranty was an expensive joke.

Old 06-14-2004, 11:16 AM
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Ill tell you a story about the case of engine abuse Ive ever seen. A 1992 Chevy pickup used by a salesman. We worked on the truck only when it broke down. Get this the owner would simply add oil when low, NEVER changed the oil!!! He also used whatever 10w-30 dino he found at the local gas stations and would add oil every few tanks of gas. Various brands Im sure. The truck ran to 129,000 miles before the oil screen plugged and it threw a rod on the tired EFI 350. The oil was simply dirty, filthy!! The truck also had NEVER saw a spark plug change.... Moral of the story: Regular change intervals matter more than the type of oil...Synthetic oils are great overkill anyway. Pick one fill her up and forget about it... I prefer Mobil 1, my oil recommendation involves the experience of a 180,000 EFI 350 and a 115,000 mile Ls1. I now use the same 10W-30 M1 in my Ls6, cant go wrong with M1 IMHO....

Last edited by cantdrv65; 06-14-2004 at 11:25 AM.
Old 06-14-2004, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Ill tell you a story about the case of engine abuse Ive ever seen. A 1992 Chevy pickup used by a salesman. We worked on the truck only when it broke down. Get this the owner would simply add oil when low, NEVER changed the oil!!! He also used whatever 10w-30 dino he found at the local gas stations and would add oil every few tanks of gas. Various brands Im sure. The truck ran to 129,000 miles before the oil screen plugged and it threw a rod on the tired EFI 350. The oil was simply dirty, filthy!! The truck also had NEVER saw a spark plug change.... Moral of the story: You can overanalyze the use of an engine oil...I prefer Mobil 1, my oil recommendation involves the experience of a 180,000 EFI 350 and a 115,000 mile Ls1. I now use the same 10W-30 M1 in my Ls6, cant go wrong with M1 IMHO....
just curious, what does your oil pressure run?
Old 06-14-2004, 11:30 AM
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Runs about 35 psi at idle in my Z06....cold idle a little more around 40....From my experience most engine wear, spun bearings in the Ls1 happens when they are run hard LOW on oil. Low in an Ls1 is 1.5 to 2 quarts low and can happen quickly depending on oil usage problems....Got lucky with my current Ls6 no oil usage problems.....
Old 06-14-2004, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cantdrv65
I had a Toyota Junkolara with the 3.0 V6. It was a total lemon. Never own another Toyota. Also Toyota service and warranty was an expensive joke.

Sorry to hear that, if they didn't break down I wouldn't have a job. Go figure, i'd rather work on toyota fwd car then any domestic fwd, not many people drive LS1 or RWD cars, that was the case my toolbox has wheels and would go to a GM shop.

Last edited by fullfloatingHD; 06-14-2004 at 01:32 PM.
Old 06-14-2004, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Runs about 35 psi at idle in my Z06....cold idle a little more around 40....From my experience most engine wear, spun bearings in the Ls1 happens when they are run hard LOW on oil. Low in an Ls1 is 1.5 to 2 quarts low and can happen quickly depending on oil usage problems....Got lucky with my current Ls6 no oil usage problems.....
Thats 40 at WOT? or is that what the pressure sensor is reading on the dash, spec is 6psi oil pressure at idle.
Old 06-14-2004, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by fullfloatingHD
Thats 40 at WOT? or is that what the pressure sensor is reading on the dash, spec is 6psi oil pressure at idle.
35 psi at idle. lol. Although some old school engine builders argue 6 psi is all that is needed, If you're reading 6 psi at idle you've got some engine problems. Cant have too much oil pressure. Had a built SBC 327 that ran 100 psi wot cold!!!
Old 06-15-2004, 10:32 AM
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Hey patman whats the deal with mobile 1's 15w 50 with the red top??? Supposedly it for high performance. Whats your take on this? I know the 15w will not flow that well in cold weather but i live in texas and it summertime,
Old 06-15-2004, 11:47 AM
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You don't need the 15w50 in the LS1, it's just going to rob you of horsepower and MPG. I wouldn't go any thicker than 15w40 in these engines.
Old 06-15-2004, 11:56 AM
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I believe Royal Purple oils are all truly synthetic and not dino-based cracked hydrocarbon juice like someone said above.....
Old 06-15-2004, 04:06 PM
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I will be installing a new motor in the next month . . . should I break it in with dyno oil, and then go to the German 0w30? How long should I keep the dyno oil in?

Excellent thread!

- Dug



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